I like Hstick more than JLF or LS-32. I’m just forced to play on others because it doesn’t work for me.
Which is surprising since your review gave it some high praises. Played some casuals and found myself missing the LS-32. I’ll be switching back and either selling the hayabusa or seeing if anyone in my locals wants it. Awesome tumblr btw (hibachicandy).
I’m frankly amazed anybody would go back to the JLF or LS-32 after using the Hayabusa but that’s your choice…
I have a strong feeling some of you didn’t use the joystick for more than a few hours or days.
That’s kind of a short period of time to spend to make a decision on a control device. It takes time to get adjusted and switch on hardware.
There is a marked difference between the way this joystick hits its microtabs versus the LS-32 and its gated switches. I felt it hit more crisply on diagonals and rotated more smoothly…
The differences aren’t going to be noticed so much on SF IV or the Marvel vs Capcom 2/3 games. Those games are much more forgiving in control lever inputs than the SF2 series, SF Alpha games, and a fair chunk of other 2-D fighters like the SNK/Neo Geo games. For the faster-paced games with less-forgiving control input and timing, the Hayabusa is the more comfortable of the Japanese-style joysticks… I rank it above the LS-joysticks I’ve used AND the JLF.
The good news with this joystick is that it’s ALL good news and there are plenty of curious players who will either demo it or buy it off if you don’t like it.
With the same mods as I’ve done to a Hayabusa I no longer feel the same as I used to about the JLF. I think they’re both good sticks, one is just built to a higher spec than the other.
gee I sure hope this thread also becomes like the iL discussion.
I find it interesting to see what pros are using what sticks. Most of seem to play on sticks with little to no mods. I saw a whole mess of people playing on Fighting Edge. One notable instance was Mike Ross. During his match with PR Rog he missed a raw Ultra and got EX TK. He then switched out the FE for a TE. Not sure if he was having issues with the 'Busa, Kuros, or the case itself. He seemed to be making puzzled faces and mashing buttons right after the match.
Yeah I’ve seen a lot of FEs lately. I see them at tournaments all the time. I took mine with me from NJ to Cali for SCR lol.
By higher spec you’re talking about the material used for the flange and actuator as well as the screw-in as opposed to snap-in gate?
I haven’t gotten my Hayabusa yet. I’m mainly interested in the pivot, but if the differences between the HHS and the JLF are this small I could have saved myself about 20 bucks.
I think the matsushida micro switches and the gate design account for most of the difference in feel. Snappier with a more crisp gate impact. Can’t wait to try it with the custom gate Moonchilde is working on.
Maybe he’s just not used to using the FE. Some people can adapt faster than others or just a mind thing. They figured they are not using the JLF so all of a sudden they are missing inputs.
Alex Valle brought his White FE (Kineda as well) to NCR and had no problems with execution.
according to some people here, that doesn’t account for anything.
Figure I could chime in - Mike Ross was borrowing Kineda’s stick, which had some modifications done (I think a stiffer spring plus oversized actuator) to his Hayabusa, making it non-stock. It feels pretty different, and I think the big reason why Mike asked for the changeup.
That’s good to know. Thanks for the info yooooon.
Actually, it wasn’t my stick. It was just a stock Hori Hayabusa he was using. 
Actuator switches are nothing to sneeze at… If you’re used to a joystick behaving one way or the other, a huge change in actuator size – 1.0mm or more – can really unsettle you.
I tested LS-32 custom actuators recently and found that I generally didn’t care for them. They upset the way the switch activation felt to me and altered timing too much. That’s me; mileage will vary for other people.
The LS-32 is definitely mushier when it comes to microswitch activation than the Hayabusa… I really don’t know if it’s the gates or the way the microswitches are arranged in the base. (JLF switch activation doesn’t feel that different to me from the LS-32; I’ve never been able to figure how some say the switches on the JLF activate more crisply.) The switch activation is less of an issue on SF IV than it is on the CPS-2 games I play.
I took an LS-40 and LS-32 apart recently and saw very few differences in the switch base configuration. Sames stock switches, same spacing in the switch assemblies. The LS-40-01 has a sturdier-looking substrate compared to the flimsy contraption the LS-32-01 uses for its soldered-in microswitches and the two joysticks feel utterly different in switch activation and roll. The two LS-joysticks share very little in common aside from mounting plates, microswitches, and spring.
The JLF is moderately like the LS-32 in most respects but I DID NOT care for the way the actuator scrapes along the restrictor gate… the square gate on the JLF has never felt as comfortable to me as the square gate on the LS-joysticks or the Hayabusa. Switching to an octo-gate really didn’t help me in the long run on the JLF and having played with the JLF recently after a long hiatus I can honestly say the thickness and build of the restrictor gate is the least comfortable aspect of the design… I’m inclined to think that the JLF gate design might be creating some of the issues a lot of us have with that joystick. Nosirr, I didn’t like it!
The mods I’ve done in the past are minor ones because I don’t see a point in rebuilding or redesigning a joystick-on-the-fly if the stock condition is that uncomfortable. Half of the LS-32 mods I did were for making installations and swap-outs in joysticks easier. These included cutting out a slot area on the secondary restrictor gate to make it possible to remove the PCB assembly without unscrewing that dark blue gate and replacing the C-clip with an E-clip. I did enough spring mods in the past that warranted getting rid of the C-clip; I just think the part is a nuisance and it wears out after being taken off 2 or 3 times. Except for adding shaft covers and a tiny spring adjustment, I left the joystick shaft assembly alone. Honestly, I don’t think changing actuators is going to make a joystick feel better if the microswitches feel mushy or the restrictor gate ‘gets in the way’ of your gameplay.
Kineda,
How do you like the Fighting Edge so far? I love mine!
Curious if you know what his issue was with the stick?
Like Yoon said, I did mod it with a stiffer spring (kept the stock actuator), but other than that it’s awesome. Love it.
@mIRC well those parts are better and they actually do matter a good bit. For example I have a brand new JLF never used and it has odd marks on the actuator. The plastic isn’t nearly as polished on those parts. The actuator probably makes a good change in feel, factor in the micros which are different as well plus the new pivot design. A well lubed JLF doesn’t feel all that much different from the Hayabusa but the way it hits the gate and switches feels a lot different.
JLF usually gets remarks for snappier switches because they’re higher tension than the Matsushita switches in Seimitsu and Hayabusa. I can feel a slight difference and it definitely feels a little snappier.
Not sure. All I remember was that he didn’t quite like the feeling of the stick he was using. He asked for another Hayabusa, but mine had the modded spring and I think Alex has a bat top. So he ended up using a TE instead I believe.