@teleute just counter sunk the Hayabusa gate screws. I just assumed that he misunderstood something that moon said and thought that he figured out some new way to do it.
Nah, no new way to do it. It’s a lot safer though to drill into a Sanwa gate for a Hayabusa than to cut off body parts of a JLF, in attempt to retrofit a Hayabusa gate on it lol. Not that I cut off mine, but I wanted to heads up before anyone attempts to. For example, if someone has a spare Hayabusa gate, and their JLF gate broke, you can’t do it. Well, that’s not 100% correct, you’d have to drill the body mount holes in the Hayabusa gate longer by .5 mm in both directions (for a total of 1 mm) and then cut the snap tabs off.
But why someone would do that, I don’t know. But just in case you know?
I don’t know…
I tried playing again with a JLF for the time in many months and while the joystick wasn’t quite as bad as I remembered I was struck by how much I HATED the square gate on it! It feels “thick” to me and the way the actuator rubs against that thing doesn’t feel right, either.
It’s definitely harder to hit diagonals on the JLF for me. I remember the first time I picked up an LS-32 and used it to play Street Fighter IV. It was a lot easier to do a lot of the moves on the game with that joystick. The transition from LS-32 to Hayabusa comfort-wise was even faster and crisper.
The Hayabusa has square gate-only and the LS-32 by default set to square and they feel worlds apart from the JLF… Very comfortable. Would never want to go to an octo-gate in either case. (I occasionally use the four-way restrictor on the LS-32 but only when I’m playing Pac-Man.) Never got used to the way the square gate feels on the JLF!
Oh, and it’s no question to me now the Hayabusa has a longer throw than the JLF AND LS-32. I felt that, too. Oddly enough, I’m perfectly fine with the throw on the Hayabusa. I don’t think I want to mod it for “better” or shorter throw. I’m fairly certain I feel the same way with respect to the LS-32.
I have noticed mention of problems hitting diagonals with this stick. Can someone go into a bit more detail? I know, for instance, that the brawlstick had a terrible time with diagonals and wouldn’t want anything like that. Is it a matter of missing diagonals occasionally or having to push the actuator into the corner of the gate to hit diagonals or perhaps a matter of feel?
Someone please respond. I’m trying to remove the screw from my JLF right now and it’s hell. Apparently the screws are glued in there too. If Hayabusa is the same way it might not be worth the trouble switching mounting plates to try and fit it in a smaller enclosure.
Moonchilde, are you still fiddling around with a JLF? What’s your verdict now?
They’ll screw right out, just make sure you’ve got the best fitting screwdriver you can get. Those JLF plate screws are crap. I had less trouble with the Hayabusa screws, they’re not as soft.
I tend to get 256 instead of 236. I’ll go between LS-32, JLF, and Hstick (I have all 3 installed in 3 different sticks) and only see it on Hstick. For me it almost feels like what I’ve heard a friend of mine say about about transitioning from octa to square gate:
vs
Thing is the overwhelming majority of Hstick users don’t seem to have that issue so I wouldn’t worry about it if I were you.
Yeah I thought there was a way to do it since breaking tabs was mentioned for JLF but I didn’t see screws mentioned in the same post.
Thanks the gate analogy clicked. Much appreciated.
@mIRC no problems removing the mounting plate off Hayabusa. On JLF it’s ridiculously difficult because the screws strip really easy and they put loctite in there. I recently had to drill out a stripped mounting screw from a JLF even after melting the loctite with acetone. Hayabusa doesn’t have this problem.
Longer post response but I like to be thorough and get points across –
Depends on the individual… Having used the LS-32 for several years now – and the Hayabusa for a few months – there is a huge difference in feel as far as microswitch activation. There’s a lot in the design of the joysticks that affects their throw’s, activation input forces, and roll’s. There is no single one factor that makes a joystick “better” than another… it’s a combination of things that determine this and it’s still a highly personal, subjective topic.
Some people like larger throw and looser activation. Some prefer tighter throw and tighter activation… and there are all kinds of in-between’s. There’s no universal consensus on this otherwise we wouldn’t have close to a dozen Asian joysticks in production on top of various European/American models and clones of discontinued or mainline joysticks!
Better quality parts and tweaked/tuned design performance help otherwise we wouldn’t have such a huge supply of after-market mod parts for joysticks – aluminum/replacement actuators, customized alternate tension springs, etc. People are definitely having problems with stock model joysticks (mainly the JLF BUT Seimitsu joysticks have their “gotcha’s”, too) that no amount of practicing is going to fix. You can spend years trying to overcome built-in design control issues with practice but if the throw is uncomfortable for you OR the stock microswitches are poor quality nothing short of tweaking or switching model brands is going to fix those things for you. Most of the bigger problems I had with the JLF disappeared when I switched model brands, period. The lingering problems I’ve had with Seimitsu joysticks are mostly gone with the Hori Hayabusa. A lot of us are still trying to find that optimal joystick. For me, I’m happy with a near-optimal, near-stock joystick. That’s the Hori Hayabusa — for now.
The OEM Brawlstick is a JLF clone. The JLF itself is better than any of the Mad Catz JLF clones, IMHO. The JLF is better than most of Hori’s pre-Hayabusa JLF clones, too. The notable exception to the Hori JLF clone rule was the old PS1 era Namco Joystick. That and the Hori Fighting Stick pre-PS2 (using the same basic Hori parts as the Namco Joystick) were the best Hori OEM parts prior to the Hayabusa and Kuro. The current Hayabusa and Kuro for most who have used these parts for a good length of time (months) are undoubtedly as good or better than comparable Sanwa and Seimitsu product.
Some of the pre-Hayabusa JLF clones are useable joysticks as-is or upgradeable with better microswitches but in general they will break far sooner and with less notice than any of the mainline joysticks that Sanwa and Seimitsu make. They’re budget control levers with cheaper quality parts so what should you expect??? Some things like microswitches CAN be fixed but you’ve got to be prepared to do some mod work (switch replacement, soldering, etc.) to rehab OEM Hori/MC joysticks after they do break. It’s generally easier dealing with part replacement in Seimitsu and Sanwa joysticks. People spend the money to upgrade with Seimitsu and Sanwa control levers to avoid having to deal with the hassle of repairing lower quality OEM product based on online reports or experience with friends who HAVE had the OEM levers break on them with very little play time on them relatively speaking; we’re talking a few months or even just a few weeks when OEM parts break in the Hori Fight Sticks (non-HRAP, Hori budget line joysticks from PS2-era on up) or Mad Catz SE-line joysticks.
I’ve tested the Brawl Stick JLF clone in the Mad Catz Tatsunoko Vs Capcom joystick. I didn’t like it… The JLF’s still better built, IMHO, and that’s not a stick I care to use, either. It’s very difficult to remove the square gate from the Brawl Stick control lever – at least it was for me. It’s supposed to pop off like the JLF restrictor gate but I found the plastic to be badly formed and the OEM MC gate was on so tight that you literally have to shave or broke off part of the base tabs to take the gate off.
To be honest, I DON’T like the square gate on the JLF. I don’t like how the actuator rubs against it and I think that might at least partially be behind why I was never got comfortable with the JLF square gate. The JLF gate is a thick chunk of transparent plastic whether we’re talking the stock square gate or the replacement octo-gate many people prefer. I honestly don’t like either gate. The Hori Hayabusa and LS-joysticks also have stock square gates. To me, the LS-32 and Hayabusa square gates were orders of magnitude more comfortable than the JLF and I’m able to roll or hit diagonals on both more comfortably. The Hayabusa is definitely more comfortable to me regardless of all the plastic and design differences from the LS-32 and JLF. I’ve recently experimented with alternate actuators for the LS-32 and I’m finding for me that there is a definite “sweet” zone that I don’t want to go past. You can go too big on the actuator and it upsets performance characteristics too much. I prefer to stick to stock parts as much as possible. Again, this is all personal preference…
Thanks, both these responses have got me thinking about trying the hayabusa. I greatly prefer the ls-32 to the jlf and your input has helped.
Anyone know when HORI will get more HAYABUSA sticks back in stock?
Seeing as April is over half-over now and the part has been sold out since at least sometime in mid-/late March (?), I wouldn’t expect Hori-USA to have the Hayabusa back in stock before first or second week of May – maybe even as late as mid-June.
I think they’ll have the Hayabusa back before June. Do I know that 100%? No, but it seems like it takes around a month-and-a-half to two months for the Hori-USA site to restock the non-limited edition items unless it’s something that’s really not selling (like driving wheels and so on).
Shoot 'em an e-mail directly and see what Hori-USA says… Anybody else’s guess is 50/50.
They’ll get the Hayabusa back in stock. I think it’s been doing well enough and seems to be showing up in more limited edition variant HRAP’s all the time. Just a matter of time before it shows up in official US HRAP N4 or US HRAP V4 release. There have been two HRAP V3-LE’s (wired and unwired) and now an HRAP V4-LE with the Hayabusa. I think the Hayabusa and Kuro parts are going to be in the next non-LE, non-Amazon-jp, mainline HRAP which could be a reuse of the HRAP N3 case (HRAP N4) or an entirely new case design (less likely – this is Hori we’re talking about!).
I think in retrospect it was smart of Hori to debut the Hayabusa and Kuro separate from the Fighting Edge in limited edition HRAP’s. That’ll help spread the word more overseas where the console transition is going slower – won’t do a darn thing in the US where we seemed to be looking more forwards to a PS4 joystick release rather than another PS3 joystick or HRAP V3 retread. (IF we’re stuck with a case repress, then it’s better that they make the dual PS-generation HRAP V4 unlimited and release it in the States – but I don’t think that’s going to happen.) At this point, my own belief is that Hori needs to get the waiting period over with for US customers at the very least and ship a PS4 HRAP with the Hayabusa/Kuro parts installed STAT…
The Hayabusa will probably be available on its own from the Hori webstores in the US and Japan for the forseeable future. I don’t think it’s unreasonable to expect the Hayabusa to show up at arcade parts webstores (Focus Attack, Paradise Arcade Shop, Akihabarashop.jp, GremlinSolutions-UK, etc.) over the next year to eighteen months, either…
Dear Sir/Madam,
Thank you for contacting HORI USA.
In regards, unfortunately this product is currently out of stock and we do not have an ETA of when this product will be back in stock. Please continue to check our website and social media outlets for updates and announcements.
We apologize for the inconvenience and ask for your understanding.
Please feel free to contact us if you have any questions or concerns.
Thank you very much.
HORI USA
thanks for the update guys
They’ll have them back in stock by June I’d bet.
I doubt the Taito arcade VLX panel deal or the business with the limited edition HRAP V3’s and V4’s “did Hori in” as far as Hayabusa was concerned. Sure, their main concern is producing parts for the new-run HRAP’s AND the Fighting Edge joysticks BUT ==>
Hori’s a small company to begin with.
The American side is the smaller of the two sites with a website/warehouse you can buy sticks direct from. They don’t have much of a large retail presence in North America for joystick sales. Their joysticks show up very sporadically in stores. The Mad Catz joysticks are easier to find in-stores but even now nobody’s joysticks are as easy to find as they were a few years back. Most of the Hori product I’ve seen in stores when I’ve looked has mainly been for portable systems like the PSP, PS Vita, and Gameboy series, DS, 3DS, etc. Those are things like cover protectors, transparent screen filters, and stylus pens. Stores sell things like that by the truckload compared to pro-level joysticks which are practically half the cost of a game system.
The way Hori does its joystick runs sounds a lot like Bandai and the way they handle their toy releases – at least Stateside.
Aside from their videogames (which are mostly awful and based on licenses Bandai owns toy merchandizing rights to like Gundam), Bandai toys aren’t bad. They’re just awful hard to get after a while because they don’t go crazy on production and overproduce them. Their production tends to be very stingy.
Apologies if this has been answered already in the thread, but can this stick be used to replace the stick in a MadCatz TE? Also, would the gate be changeable?
- Yes it has already been address in the thread; yes it can be used in a TE.
- Yes, the gate is technically removable, but you have nothing else to be able to fit in the same slot, unless you start drilling and cutting JLF restrictors. That’s been covered in this thread as well.
Got the hayabusa in. I find I like it a lot better than the JLF but not sure if it will replace the ls-32 as my main. Did anyone else feel that while the hayabusa is great, they prefer their previous options more?
me