Can we ask a mod to take action here, maybe lock the thread?
As this train been derailed so bad that the only survivor is Bruce Willis in abad Super Hero movie.
Switched back to the stock Hayabusa actuator, then back to the Kowal. Apparently, I had the E-clip cockeyed (not fully clipped in) when I previously installed the Kowal- this time, the top of the lower actuator section (the part that actually engages the switches) was snagging the bottom of the gate. I resolved the issue by rounding down the 90° angle with an X-acto knife. I like the stick much better with the oversized actuator, going back to the stock one wasn’t doing it for me.
What was you problem with the stock actuator?
In contrast to the Kowal, the throw is longer (upper part of the Kowal has a .049" ± .001" larger OD than stock Hayabusa/JLF actuators), and the engage is further from neutral- same differences the Kowal provides in the JLF (engage being the bigger factor, IMO). I should clarify that I do not have any other oversized actuators to compare.
Heads up. My gate project is coming along pretty nicely. So you will be able to use a stock actuator with a throw of your choice. I personally love the stock actuator.
Oh, that reminds me! I’m going to get a design for levers going as well. Will be super easy, and maybe we can get some stamped out.
Guess stock JLF gate could be an option? I feel like the gate and switch layout could be the problem for me at at this point. Super hype for this. :tup:
Stock will be an option yeah. You’ll be able to do no-gate, stock, short throw, and no throw. You’ll have a choice of stock octagonal, stock square, or stock circle. Short square, short circle, short octagonal, and no throw square. Corners with octagonal and circle become a problem if you try no throw, so short throw is better for those.
You’ll be able to change these easily, too. Well, as easy as it is to open your stick up, you won’t need to screw or unscrew any gates. Well, hopefully not. I’m still in the early design phases but I got a lot of work done today.
Plus, this is going to be JLF, Hayabusa, old stock Hori, MadCatz, and any other JLF knock off compatible. So this basically covers all of MadCatz TE and SE sticks, any non-SE Hori sticks, and maybe older stock Qanba sticks. Possibly Injustice stick as well.
Universal Gate! W00t!
Any timeline on this gate? Can’t wait to get my hands on a few of them.
It will probably take me a week or two to get the design in prototype stage. Then, get a 3D printed prototype to test. Probably take another week. So that looks to be about the first week of May. Then, if everything works well, a 30 day Kickstarter, so mid June or so.
I am hoping to have these done by EVO, so if you’re going to be there, we can shake hands and you can get a gate from me 
If not, then you can probably get one before then.
See you at EVO. Who are you going through for 3D printing?
You bro.
Nah, no EVO for me. I mostly play solo or with just a couple of frineds. There’s a group in my town (Columbus) that gets together on Tuesdays, but I work second shift, so that’s generally out. My experiences playing fighters online (not into FPS or sports games) have alternated between annoying and addicting, and at this point I find it difficult to justify dropping the cash for XBL when I almost never use it (too vested in 360 games to make the switch to ps3). Also, being married negates almost any possibility for me to take a cool nerd vacation anyways. Any TT’ers coming through Columbus are welcome to give me a shout though.
Just a note. I found out today that stuff compatible with JLF is compatible with Hayabusa, but not everything compatible with Hayabusa is compatible with JLF.
Meaning, do not cut the snap tabs off the JLF body and try to use the Hayabusa gate on it. The mounting holes for the Hayabusa gate are 1 mm too short to fit over the body mounts of the JLF. However, the JLF gate fits on Hayabusa quite nicely. As far as I know, the Hayabusa gate and the JLF PCB are the only parts not compatible between the two sticks without destructive mods to each.
Can you tell me if the screws in the mounting plate are backed by washers? I hope not, it’s really a bitch for me to deal with.
How does the JLF gate mount on the Hstick without screws? Eager to try this out.
It doesn’t. I think you misunderstood.
It’ll stay put without tabs or screws?
No. You have to screw down all gates on the Hayabusa.
I know that people do NOT want to read or re-read through all the pages but in all honesty someone already explained how to fit the JLF Gate onto the Hayabusa. This is even in the FAQ that I wrote for the Hayabusa!
It gets very frustrating to to have to explain the same points again and again and again and again…
Go back to Page 4 of this thread and read through the posts teleute wrote. He’s got pictures of the JLF Gate Mod for the Hayabusa. If you still can’t follow words or instructions, the pictures spell it out clearly.
You CANNOT fit a JLF restrictor gate onto the Hayabusa without removing the baseplate of the Hayabusa first.
Keep the Hayabusa screws because you’re going to need those! Can’t remember if the Hayabusa screws are long enough to hold the base assembly together; I believe the JLF Gate is thicker than the Hayabusa baseplate and it may be that new, longer screws may be needed to install the JLF Gate. Keep the stock Hori screws just in case you need to use them to hunt down longer, compatible screws at a hardware store. (They’ll probably be M4 screws like they are 99% of the time with Japanese joysticks…)
Next, you have to drill through the recessed holes on the JLF Gate. It’s real obvious where you have to drill… This is the same Gate Mod that had to be done to attach the JLF to the Mounting Zone on the faceplate of the old Hori (American) Tekken 5 joystick.
The JLF Gate has to be screwed onto the Hayabusa base, period… You can’t get around that. The new restrictor gate design for the Hayabusa that Moonchilde is working on will also have to be screwed on as well. The assembly of the Hayabusa is held together with screws through the bottom whether that bottom is the original baseplate with the integrated square gate, a modded JLF gate, or the new design Moonchilde is working on.