I am not sure if he meant switch leavers, gates or something else entirely
I’m entertaining the thought of buying a second Hayabusa, but I still want to try the LS40. Decisions, decisions.
get both
And then sell off the one you don’t like as much.
Or keep it for a future project if you like both.
Focus Attack’s upcoming sale will be a good opportunity to try the LS40. Hopefully Hori makes the Hayabusa available to parts distributors other than themselves in the future.
I love/hate/love the LS-40 personally but it’s nowhere near as frustrating as the LS-56/LS-58…
That’s just me, though. I personally prefer the longer throws on the LS-32 and Hayabusa. LS-40 is in-between the LS-32 and LS-56/-58 in most senses. At least that’s how it feels to me.
I’m keeping my LS-40’s as they are but I probably won’t be buying more in the future. I just have too many off-days where I have a hard time using them on some fighting games.
here is a Hayabusa with a JLF Link
And just like what I mentioned before Hori Hayabusa unboxing + mods!
That a black anodized aluminum ball top from Paradise Arcade and 3 LBS JLF spring.
if you get the aluminum ball top make sure you get the JLF Bat top adapter.
Looking nice @Darksakul ! Now I wish rosser rooster was still here so we can get powder coated links
Can’t wait until Hori stocks these babies again. Recently switched to the LS-32 and can’t go back to the JLF. Want to test these suckers out.
This is one of the biggest advantages of the Hayabusa over the Seimitsu joysticks… Instant compatibility with a bunch of JLF aftermarket and mod parts.
Still, if it weren’t for the fact that the Hayabusa does engage its microswitches a bit better than the LS-32, I’d have probably stuck with the LS-32 as the main JLF replacement lever for the forseeable future. Either joystick (Hayabusa or LS-32) at any rate, is more comfortable for my use than the LS-58, JLF, or the LS-40.
PN1,
I suspect Hori will get Hayabusa’s back in stock sooner than they did the black Fighting Edge.
Word on the street is that one of the arcade parts vendors that posts around these parts already has a deal in place to carry Hayabusa’s so you may not be stuck buying that joystick solely from Hori anymore. IF that’s the case, that will also help some of the international people who can’t buy straight from Hori at the moment.
It’s good that Hori sold out of the Hayabusa.
I don’t know how many of the sticks they actually made separate from the production for the Fighting Edge and limited edition HRAP V3’s with the Hayabusa installed but this is a good sign that they’re not sitting on a pile of parts.
I think Hayabusa at least is here to stay. There’s more of an open question mark on the Kuro buttons…
Any way to reduce the throw on dat Busa? Thought moonchilde was working on a custom gate…
Working on it, but means I am learning some CAD stuff and having to test out multiple programs since I work on Linux.
For those who having issues installing a Hayabusa (HSS-032) in a Mad Catz TE (Also includes the Mad Catz Soul Edtion stick)
Is there a purpose for the secondary washer the instructions say to place on underneath the top panel? (It’s installed in a HRAP VX SA KAI, if that helps)
I’ve had the stick installed for about a week now, yesterday I had a scare when my 5pin connector came unclipped = O . So I opened my case up and reinstalled the Busa, to my surprise, under that second washer, as well as at the base on the mounting plate, was some lubricant… So I was wondering, is that a reason to keep the second washer there? To keep that splashing to a minimum? I’ve read in the past that a secondary washer can impact inputs, though I’ve experienced nothing like that so far, I was still curious about this lubricant “splashing”.
Thanks = )
That is the Idea
Yeah I heard about that too, the 2nd dust washer impacting movement unfounded, in the typical (and proper) set up there is plenty of room for the 2nd dust washer.
I would not calling splashing, but often in the arcade sticks more lube is applied than needed and some happen to get squeeze out during use.
The pivot is already made from derlin plastic which is called “a self lubing material” meaning its already a low friction material
I thought the Hori Hayabusa stick would be like a soft Seimitsu LS-32 with lighter shaft weight that snaps back to neutral better than any other japanese stick due the V cut design of pivot area, by considering what Sakonoko says in this interview [details=Spoiler]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vsPZZtqK5E[/details]
He says he wanted a mid-ground between Sanwa and Seimitsu (we know which sticks are the most popular from both brands) and the Hayabusa helped to achieve that. The major quality of LS-32 is about engage and throw, IMO is the only stick we can play anything with no complaints about being too much sensitive or too much tight …it’s really great…so the engage/throw similar to LS-32 is what i used to expect to be the mid-ground part from Seimitsu that Sako means.
And now i think the Hayabusa is like the JLF with better diagonals input (or not, cause i read some diagonal issues here from tastylumpia user) and larger throw. Then i can’t see where the “input load cut by 15% allows for fast inputs” feature is based at.
JLF with better materials, faster engage, and slightly longer throw. That’s about the general concensus.
I saw this posted from I believe the Tokyo Game Show…
…and thought it looked easy enough so…
I cut some alloy stock material approx the same size as Hori sticker and painted it black along with the white edges of the sticker…
I applied Krylon matte clear over the decal to make it look more “finished”
I hope you don’t mind if I bite this idea 