Well as far as the mount plate bolt pattern is concern, it will mount anywhere a JLF does.
I got a Hayabusa to fit in several sticks, its currently in a Mad Catz SCV TE
Here is the “official” list of Hori controllers that the Hayabusa is compatible with according to Hori Japan.
This is by no way a full-compatibility list.
Keep in mind this was taken from the Hori Japanese site and translated to Engrish by Google translate.
Well got my 2 hayabusas in today after their interesting trek from Washington to California where USPS decided to take a detour to Iowa…
I gotta say, I love the stock feeling of it. Nothing made me feel that way except for my first try of an LS-32 after playing on JLFs for years. Even though the spring was pretty light for my tastes it recenter pretty well.
Only problem I ran into was when I tried installing some levered Omron V-16-1C25-Ls I ended up with the same problem as @sethian0 (btw thanks for the H-Sticks!!!) had with his switches not disengaging, which was pretty disheartening since I don’t have any matsushita levers I can spare… I probably might just end up using some oversized actuators or wait for PAS’s adjustable actuator…
Lame and lame. Try the other switches I mentioned earlier. I liked those better anyways
I might but I do want to use higher force microswitches. This problem was the same when I tried to mod my JLF with levers awhile back.
pics of your lever mod?
Tried levers in both slots if it matters. Regardless it came out to the same effect of not disengaging.
http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy312/Z3N1TH/SwitchAssembly_zps75aa87c1.jpeg
http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy312/Z3N1TH/Open_zps579408f6.jpeg
http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy312/Z3N1TH/Closed_zpsd976db32.jpeg
http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy312/Z3N1TH/Microswitches_zps2040e419.jpeg
You say the switches don’t disengage? Maybe try an actuator that’s .5mm smaller? Or am I misunderstanding something? JLF actuator is smaller than the Hayabusa’s. Might that help?
Tried it awhile earlier. Still no dice 
That’s really weird because the levers I used worked fine.
I took the levers from zippys i got at PAS, then just cut them to size thinking it would work, but they give me the same issue on a JLF and H-Stick, but work fine on an LS-56; it’s really confusing me right now.
I am confused too! Too bad I can’t see it for myself.
Do you have any pics of how you wire it for the guys with working mods to take a look at? Some switches have different pins for normally open/closed that aren’t clearly labeled.
What do you mean by different pins? If you take a look at the last picture a few posts back you will see (at most for you) 3 prongs. The pin bent at a 90 degree angle is common (For your ground wire or chain), the one closest to the said pin (middle) is NO (Normally open. Your signal wire goes here), and the one farthest from the bent pin is NC (Normally closed. You don’t need to worry about it that much).
Every switch I’ve seen clearly lables NO and NC.
On a side note apparently my H-Stick hates levered matsushita switches as much as levered omrons.
Edit: But what I have noticed is that omrons tend to disengage less than matsushitas, where 3 of 4 average omrons would suffer from the lack of disengagement where 1 of 4 matsushitas suffered the same.
Also I took note of the switch that had issues on the matsushita tests and decided to remove the PCB assembly and rotate the switch. The results ended up that when the switches were rotated +/- 90 degrees from the original positions (so pretty much shifting switches 1 left or right) the disengagement issue dropped completely. Whereas if I rotated it 180 degrees I would just have the side opposite of the original problem switch suffer from the lack of disengagement.
Looking at the omron switches in comparison switches I want to say that my levered omrons are higher than the matsushitas due to the angle that the lever is bent at, where the matsushitas angle is more parallel to the body of the switch giving it a less steep slope for the pin, in comparison to levered omrons where due to a nearer pin slot, the slope is higher. However this is just from eye observation so I can’t really confirm.
Matsushita and Omron have different slopes for sure.
What I’m really curious about is why did something stupid like rotating the switches work?
Maybe it ended up resetting them and that’s what did it? My advice: Try doing default setting but don’t use the gate. Screw in the switches without the gate and see if you still have engagement issues. Might be a problem you’re not seeing with the gate on, or something wasn’t right when the gate was on and you couldn’t tell.
Funny story, I conducted the tests rotating the switches with the matsushitas and omrons without the gate. This was mainly due to me being to lazy to constantly have to mess with the switches and screws to make sure they went in right.
So, I have a TE-S that I’ve mentioned has a somewhat misplace Neutrik where it would not allow me to install any stick that wasn’t the same size as a JLF or LS-56. My Hayabusa and Crown 303-FK would not fit. Well, I decided I couldn’t stand that so I made a wooden platform which now gives me the clearance I need to seat probably any sized joystick. So I am happily playing with my Hayabusa I bought a few weeks ago 
I still need to fix a few things. I’m going to sand down the wood a bit and put some filler in over the screws. I also need to fix one of the holes I drilled that is slightly off (top left corner). I am going to paint it tomorrow after those things are resolved. Also, the Home/Turbo buttons are now recessed but they are still easy to get to.
So if anybody else is having similar issues or simply want to use a bigger stick they could do what I did as it didn’t take a lot of effort.
I just wish I had a circle gate I think PAS stated they will possibly get some so I’ll just wait for that rather than make my own with the JLF gate I have.
