That still shouldn’t happen. Does it always skip directions for you or is it usually 3? btw, how does 236 work I don’t understand that terminology well.
I’ve played on my stick as stock and the throw range is pretty large, well, much larger than what I’m used to. I’d probably say the same about every stock stick, lol. On the no throw mod I can always hit corners which basically would be me not riding the gate if it was in stock condition, which means things should work fine without having to ever ride the gate since you aren’t getting the full range of motion as the stock actuator using a modded one.
I’m not sure this is all user error, we should try to trouble shoot this more since you’ve been consciously trying to correct your playstyle and still having issues.
That’s what is throwing people off with the Kuro’s.
The biggest winner for Hori from the Fighting Edge is definitely the Hayabusa. That’s where more people are seeing increased comfort and something worth it to buy or at least test.
People are on the fence with the Kuro’s. You like them, hate them, or are indifferent. Most people don’t seem to hate them from the reviews I’ve read but they also don’t see where they’re magically better than or preferrable to the Sanwa pushbuttons. I don’t think Sanwa has to worry here! If anything’s going to get displaced – IF that actually happens – it would be JLF/LS-whatever but the Sanwa buttons are probably around to stay for good. There are just very few people that outright seem to hate the Sanwa buttons. To me, they’re still the most comfortable solid-colored plastic buttons I’ve played in 30+ years of videogaming. Some people MIGHT prefer something like the Pearl’s which are almost as comfortable but don’t have the tendency to misfire if you sneeze on them (horribly sensationsalized critique of the OBSF-xx buttons but that’s how some people feel).
(At least you can swap out the microswitches on the Kuro’s. The white color of the Hori plastic looks better to me. Ditto for the Seimitsu ball handle. The Sanwa white by comparison looks like a yellowed/off-white color. Definitely not as nice as the other two white plastics.)
With the Seimitsu buttons, there are some I like (Pearls, switch-modded PS-15’s), some I can play with (PS-14-G’s), and some I prefer to stay away from (stock, unmodded PS-15’s). I can’t always say it’s the switches with the Seimitsu buttons since the Pearls use the same switches as the PS-15’s BUT swapping the switches out in the PS-15’s definitely increased my comfort level with those buttons!
I gave myself two days to get used to the PS-15’s with the original PS-14-D microswitches in them but it felt like I was hitting bricks with my fingers. The switches DID get a bit looser but they were never going to be as comfortable as OBSF-30 or Pearl buttons. That was becoming very obvious to me… I noticed a comfortable difference the day after I replaced the original PS-15 microswitches with leftover SW-68 microswitches from surplus OBSF-30 buttons. The SW-68 microswitches had to settle in for a while but were very compatible with the PS-15 casigns…
Thanks to alainvey I found a place that sells LS-40 for $25. Hayabusa is probably $45 shipped to me ( $29 stick + $8 shipping to UK + $8 shipping to me). I had my mind on Hayabusa or LS-40 and the Seimitsu joystick looks like the obvious choice unless Hori is much better or if I need to buy something else to use LS-40 in a MC SCV or TT2 case.
I compared the JLF and Hstick in windows gamepad setup like you said. Moved the lever till the 2 switch activated (not all the way), then move the stick right at that same level till the 6 switch activates and see if I got qcf (numpad notation 236). Looking at my results, it seems that HORI wanted the stick to do better at cardinal directions (meaning it’s a lot easier to get clean up, down, left, right inputs) and neutral inputs on the Hstick in contrast to how wide the diagonal region is on the JLF (easier to get 7 or 9 when I want 8). Honestly, that makes me feel like it’s more user error than something being wrong.
For example, I screw up walk forward > fireball on JLF more than on Hstick. Also stuff like 256523 and 356236523 with Kazuya in SFxT is easier to do with the Hstick than the JLF because of how much easier it is to get into neutral (5). Other things like 2149 (TKCS) are really inconsistent for me on Hstick but I have no issues on JLF.
I’m probably indifferent about the buttons. I go between Kuros, OBSFs, PS14Ks, and HBFSs (brown) fairly regularly and they all do just fine for me. My favorite buttons are probably the glorious PS14Gs though i wish they were a little softer.
@chaoslimits What happens when you spin the stick around 12369874 over and over quickly? Does it ever drop 1, 3, 9, or 7? You shouldn’t have to ride the gate to hit those.
Depends on how close I am to the gate. If I’m not at least half way into the switch activation, it will miss 1,3,9,7 every so often. Happens on both my Hayabusas.
$25 is about average for a joystick lever now.
Be aware that if you ever get a chance to try the Hayabusa, it will feel very different from the LS-40.
Again, the Hayabusa in stock condition is more like the LS-32. Modifications and compatible parts exist to adjust the feel to however you want.
Other than shaft cover, balltop handle, and dustcover swaps, I prefer to limit my joystick mods to spring’s thank you very much!
UPDATE: I’m going to post a FAQ of the Hayabusa tomorrow along with comments about its performance. The FAQ will be posted separate from the Fighting Edge and existing Hayabusa threads.
I took a ton of pictures of the Hayabusa parts as well as pictures of a disassembled JLF and LS-32 since they’re the standard Japanese joysticks. Those joysticks were also the models for the construction and performance characteristics Hori set for the Hayabusa. While I don’t think the Hayabusa is a revolutionary design it certainly is a very clever retake on what Sanwa and Seimitsu did with their signature joysticks. IF I were a Seimitsu manager and designer, I’d pay attention to what Hori did with the Hayabusa. If anybody’s going to take a hit in joystick sales, it would be Seimitsu! Right now, they don’t have to worry so much about that since Hori’s taking their time rolling the Hayabusa and Kuro parts out separate from the Fighting Edge.
I will post the text first… The pictures might took a few days to fully surface since I have to do some photo-editing to get the image file sizes down, keep the detail, and highlight some screw-in points and the microswitch tabs on the Hayabusa. The pictures came out decent for the most part but the Hayabusa plastic is all-black making it difficult to see some details!
That’s what I plan on doing with mine, I hope to get levered D2RV-G’s from paradise arcade… Can you give us some feedback on how the Hayabusa feels with the levered D2RV-G’s?
Just got my Hayabusa today! Threw it in my VLX and played some SF3TS for about ten minutes and I’m blown away!!!
And, I haven’t even done any mods to it. My executions come out noticeably quicker and the quick return to center is apparent especially when dashing. I have been a JLF user for the last 10 years but that changes today. I have recognized JLF’s shortcoming for a while and have been looking for a replacement and the Hayabusa is it. I still like my newly bought LS-40 and I have yet to try my recently acquired LS-56 but I can already tell that I will main the Hayabusa. I will probably only keep one SparkCE equipped JLF just to have an optical stick but the rest of my JLF’s will hit the trading outlet. Also, I’m not sure why some Hayabusa users report issues with diagonals. In my short play time so far, I haven’t had any issues with diagonals. I think the Hayabusa is amazing out of the box. I will only mess around with a spring mod and D2RV-G micro’s. Best arcade part purchase I’ve had in a long time and I will be ordering another for my P2 stick. Thanks to everyone in this thread for pointing me in the right direction!
Yes but you must install from the bottom and you wont be able to open the top panel after its mounted. I never bother with the top panel anyway on HRAP N3/X.
