In my opinion square gates make tiger kneeing specials much easier.
Ok, I made an error with the lever mod. Looking at @sethian0 JLF lever mod question in the Cherry switch thread earlier and what position to put the lever in got me thinking. Yeah, something was odd. See, in the LS-56, the switches all touch so the levers pretty much get close and that’s why you get the good diagonals. In Hayabusa, the switches are spread apart slightly, and the levers don’t really help on the diagonals. You can see the left and bottom switch is the stock LS-56 lever position. This really doesn’t do anything other than change the engage by .5 mm. So, I tried to put the levers in the closer to the pin position and unfortunately this caused problems, the levers were slightly too long. So I busted out my Omron’s and put the levers in the closer to the pin position which gives enough clearance to allow better functioning of the diagonals as it’s supposed to be. You can see how the left switch has the lever stop at the pin. You can see how one of the unmounted Hayabusa switches with the lever in the close to the pin position is too long. You can see how the top and right Omron switches mounted in the base have the lever extend just far enough to make a difference in diagonals. This would be the proper way to get switches on a Hayabusa and doesn’t require any kind of Dremeling at all. Dremeling the Hayabusa base is deprecated and outdated and frankly incorrect. I don’t know why I did not notice this a while back. I should have known right away.
Le sigh…
LS-56 switches with levers are not a proper replacement 
It will have to be a Omron switch with the lever in the close to the pin position, which means if it’s the V series or D2RV series, the rivet must be drilled out, which also means loose switch cases
Le sigh…
I’ll see if I can find a proper switch replacement for everyone that doesn’t have a riveted switch case.
On the other hand, being in the further position means more coverage, and the Omron switches far from pin position would be the ideal spot. But this would require longer levers, which don’t exist. I’ll do some research to see if there is a lever between short and normal, because long levers are usually really long.
Or, I’ll just end up using a blank Omron switch and cut down some Zippy levers to the right size.
I love these in the Hayabusa. Fit like a Charm.
Yeah but those are like 50 gf which is way too soft IMO. I have 8 switches on order and I will take pics for everyone to see which model of Omron I got 
Sadly, they won’t be levered but then that’s what a Dremel is for …
better late than never
it took me 2.5 weeks to get the order. hassle with the proof of ID and shipment delayed by weather conditions.
@Moonchilde
So, levered D2RV switches are out of the question?.. I was wanting a silent Hayabusa but I would rather it perform at its peak potential… Can’t wait to see what your findings are with the Omrons you ordered.
I ordered non-levered switches but I will be cutting down some levers to fit them. I’ll post up the exact measurements so you can do it easy as well.
On the other hand, the Hayabusa will be fine without levers anyway, I wasn’t getting any benefits from the lever mod since the lever stopped at the pin, other than slightly shorter engage.
Excellent hibachifinal!
Let us know how you like the parts.
[https://31.media.tumblr.com/e2b8577fbc5b66f5ef5a1be4c614da67/tumblr_inline_n22zqo71Re1qh9zno.jpg
Don’t wanna clutter this thread with another ass-long wall of text so here’s a link to my impressions and thoughts (theories) about the Hayabusa and Kuso’s if anyone’s interested. or just enjoy the picture.](http://hibachicandy.tumblr.com/post/78870169379/)
With respect to the original design by the HORI team, I gave stock conditions a chance extensively first.
I liked the T5 stick a lot. Never had problems with it. I played on it over TE’s at a small casuals get together because it felt a lot better to me.
Anyway, people have noted on Kuro you have to break the buttons in a bit and it stops getting squeeky and stuck on the side. I’d love to hear your thoughts after you break them in.
I wish they had Kuro in transparent. In fact, I’m going to send them a note on their FB page asking about it.
Had this sitting in my comment box for a while and I thought about deleting it before posting something else but I still feel this way so here it is:
I really wish people didn’t make snap judgements and post things as fact without thoroughly testing and running things through the scientific process. Too much I see that people avoid things because of this. Case in point: Hayabusa and diagonals. I am not a pro at any kind of game that you could possibly put in my hands. I only get to play fighting games maybe 5-7 hours a week if I’m lucky. Some weeks I dont get to play at all and I have no issues with diagonals with the Hayabusa.
On a lighter note. I find Kuro buttons interesting. That larger plunger surface actually looks good. I still haven’t gotten my hands on them yet but does anyone know how the white color of the Kuro compares to that of Seimitsu and Sanwa whites?
Nice review hibachifinal appreciate it.
The Kuros stops squeaking once they are broken in. They become much smoother after a few days of use. I really like the larger surface of the buttons and they have more of a tactile feedback than the Sanwas. I would say the response is the same on both.
This is experienced when using the Fighting Edge by the way.
I’m no pro either and I play less than you, but I’ll stand by my execution. I play Kazuya in SFxT and accurate diagonals is important to me.
I don’t think “snap judgment” is appropriate in this case. Here is my first post about the Hstick and diagonals: HORI Fighting EDGE
I used the Hstick for more than 6 months as my main/tournament joystick; I didn’t just get it in the new wave of purchases (not that new purchasers aren’t to be believed). Not sure what scientific testing you want us to do but I’ve used LS-32, LS-40, JLF, and the original joystick in the HRAP EX and never had to worry about missing a diagonal in a quarter circle motion.
I’m also not out to trash the Hstick; I like it a lot more than I like the JLF. Just hoping someone in here can give me some insight (rather than assuming it’s user error) into the issue and a potential fix so I can go back to using it as my main joystick.
Edit: Wrong link - HORI Fighting EDGE
Diagonals are different on the Busa, yes. But they aren’t bad. It’s not hard to hit them. I understand personal preference and if you used it for a while and still feel that other sticks are better at hitting the slanties then I’m not speaking about you. There have been people before you chimed in that barely got the stick are were complaining about diagonal execution. Some of these people came from playing on purely octogates and may have just needed to adjust but instead of giving themselves some time with the hardware or thinking about the fact that there are things about it that are different than their normal setup they posted that diagonals are hard on the Hayabusa like it was a fact. Then I start seeing that people are hesitant to even try it because people have said that. I don’t want to see a truly good piece of hardware go untested simply because one or two people didn’t prefer it but stated their opinion like it was hard fact. Sorry if I came off as pissed off or something. I’m not.
to be fair, i did say first impressions, i personally don’t find a need to do rigorous scientific testing, its a freakin joystick, not a car (where lives are at stake). as i’ve mentioned before in other threads, tactile feel is something that is very subjective to everyone. sriracha to one guy might be too sour, while to me it’s too sweet, but we can both agree its spicy, by definition. So if Guy X says “diagonals” is “too far”, how far is too far? there’s no specific measurement where everyone will agree is “far”. tl:dr just dont bother man, give people data, best you can hope is people try it out, if they’re hesitant, let’s not force them.
as for white kuro’s
I tried my best to take a picture, these are under “room lighting” conditions, as much as possible, realistic, no flash, “as you see it” image, not studio photos with lighting that alters the color. im not photographer, but hopefully this helps.
Kuro button, Seimitsu Balltop, Sanwa 24mm.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1908672/candy/whites.jpg
EDIT - here’s a phone camera pic with flash, #nofilter
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1908672/candy/whitesphone.jpg
as you can see, the Kuro’s are of a cooler tone white, the sanwa 24mm button is the warmest and the seimitsu white balltop is less warm, more white than milky bone, but not on the cool range. suffice to say, if you’re thinking of using sanwa/seimitsu parts with it (balltops, 24mm buttons, etc) to those with a keen eye, it will look off and non-matching.
also to add to Hayabusa wanking. I must say I finally understand the use of matsushita instead of omrons. I have a JLF-TM around and used the micros from it to the Hayabusa. The matsushita’s seems to have a smoother feel to it.
Maybe “scientific process” was a poor choice of words. I just meant that people should spend more time with something before writing it off. I agree with you though and that’s why I didn’t post that when I originally wrote it. It was more rant than I typically post (except about Photobucket). Thanks for the pics! I’m glad to see that they are more of a pure white than Sanwa and Seimitsu.
Matsushita and Omron are the same anyway, Omron is more readily available while in bulk manufacturing Matsushita is a bit cheaper. The internals are identical, I should take pics and show everyone for people who like to switch ride those Omronz.
I like Omron switches, they are good, but it really doesn’t matter which you choose. Omron and Mats are identical in function only cosmetic differences on the switch plastic.
@chaoslimits hey man, can you do something for us? Plug your stick into your PC and open the control panel for the controller. Hit every corner in a circular motion and see if all the switches register diagonals all the time. You can also do this in SF4 or whatever that shows inputs, see if while you spin the stick in square motions hitting every corner that none are being missed. I wonder if maybe you have a loose connection with one and it simply isn’t always registering.
I know this is a thread about hayabusa, but dunno where else to put this, hopefully people can chime in as well.
it’s about the Kuro’s. I’m really questioning the quality of these. I bought two sets, one from hori store, another from sethian0. both have really inconsistent microswitches, random picks have like either squeaky micros, or worse, gummy/stiff actuators. most of the time, if you press it from a slight angle, it gets stopped/stuck, like something in the way inside the micros. i’m not sure if its material they used. the Button casing/plunger itself seems okay, but with these Kuro micros, i get gunky feeling presses at random. It’s worse if you ever so slightly press the plunger near the rim, it not only squeaks, but gets ‘stuck’ on the way down too.
I know you guise have mentioned “you need to break 'em in”, well i’ve been doing hands and playing games on these for hours on end, i brought it to a local casuals meet for people to go ham on it, but they voiced similar issues.
Out of 20 Kuro buttons I have, only 2-3 KINDA feel good on press. this is just not right.
sorry for the rant, but anyone else experienced the same issues? just curious.
-edit installing sanwa sw-68’s fixes all my problems with it. wtf. I know i should just do that, but that’s not the point is it.
Wish you’d mentioned testing in windows earlier; It’s easier to see what’s happening as the input is displayed for as long as you hold it.
If I engage the 2 switch then move to 6, the JLF will always give 236. The distance at which 3 registers is almost the same as the cardinal directions.
The hstick OTH will skip the 3 and do 256; I run into a dead space. I guess the design intent of the hstick is to input by riding the gate and it’s something I’ll need to retrain to do if I want to use hstick as a main stick.
I probably shouldn’t state it as if something is “wrong” with that stick (I’m pretty sure some of my posts come off that way). Sorry about that.
The Kuro’s will feel that way for a week or so. I initially bought the PS3 (all black) hstick and kuro parts from BadBoyBrazil at Fighting Edge release and used them exclusively for a while. I bought a 360 Fighting Edge a month ago and swapped 4 of my old buttons to replace the color coded buttons on the 360 FE. There’s still a huge tactile and audible difference between the old worn in buttons (much smoother) and the new buttons (since I don’t get to play very much it takes a lot longer to wear them in). The old buttons don’t exhibit any issues when pressed from the edge either.