Not sure if I should post in this thread but I got the HRAP V.3 Hayabusa (Wireless) for PS3. Any questions? I will write a review if there is enough interest.
As far as the Hayabusa lever - I’m having a hard time not accidentally jumping/moving when doing a charge move like sonic boom and so on. Is anyone else having this issue? Maybe I just need to get used to the timing on the new stick but it’s difficult I mainly use charge characters!
I just made a test by trying to mount the JLF horizontally, it could be done but the “X” button body hits the mounting plate on his bottom left corner.
Good idea, but that would require the right screw tool and also i intend to sell the JLF with the mounting plate if i prefer the hayabusa one, which probably gonna happend.
I use a padhack and i don’t use the home/turbo pcb anymore, i kept it on the controller so the home and turbo buttons can’t get out of the hole. But i think i can remove the pcb completely and keep that little buttons fixed through another way. I suppose without that pcb i can have enough space on the right side for mount the wide H. m.plate. Thank you for the tips you guys.
Nope, don’t have those problems. At least it’s a nice change from the few who say they have a hard time hitting diagonals, haha! Probably just need to get used to the way the stick works, especially if you’re coming from a JLF.
Remove the mounting plate from the Hayabusa and turn it at a 45 angle and then remount it again the usual way. This will change the spot the PCB is and you’ll have to cross wires.
A JLF mount plate is about $5. http://www.focusattack.com/jlf-p1-mounting-plate/
But like you said, removing the home/turbo/selector switch pcb will solve your problem anyways.
People talking about difficulties on hitting diagonal directions and accidental jumps on the same thread and same stick. Time to more trainning mode and less complaints.
Strange. I’ve been a JLF user for many years and my results were different once I started using the Hayabusa. I find it easier to execute movements on the Hayabusa because it’s so responsive. It took me about an hour or so to get used to it. After a week or so of playing a lot on it. I’m pretty much convinced that I will not be going back to the JLF ever again.
Give it time and keep using it.
I’m not talking out my ass about diagonals; as a Kazuya main, I do electrics every match. Hayabusa was my main lever for over half a year; I didn’t just buy it and start complaining. I brought up the diagonals in the main Fighting Edge thread months ago. Useless posts, like yours, do not add anything to this conversation.
@syrup16g I think you just need more time with the Hayabusa; Getting main directional inputs on hayabusa is definitely a lot easier for me.
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I actually used the stick last night. It’s nice - it feels like an LS-32 (the only Seimitsu I’ve ever used) with wider throw, so it’s precise without being restrictive. That said, my Dizzy execution was still complete garbage on it, so I guess it can’t work miracles. （´・ω・｀）
Also, I cut down the protrusion a bit more this time, and now the top fits on a bit more easily. Guess that really was the problem.
Yikes! Sorry I’m so scrub and haven’t read every page of the Fighting Edge thread. Anyway yeah I’m getting used it to more, I think it’s just a small adjustment 
I know. And i didn’t say anything concerning your posts, unless that these are your words. But if not, leave me alone.
Not my words but an accurate description of my issue with the Hayabusa. Without riding the gate, it slips super quick from d to f, sometimes skipping the df input. I still don’t understand why. It sucks because everything else about the stick is just perfect.
Edit: I learned to ride the gate to compensate but sometimes I don’t and miss diagonals in quarter circle, half circle, etc motions.
This is a square gate thing i suppose. They say the player don’t need to ride the gate and the technique allows you to do circular or semi-circular motions but i can’t do this consistently, i miss the diagonal sometimes doing like this.
I learned to be consistent doing fireball and older kof motions doing the opposite, i always ride the gate but not as i used to do with american circular style arcade. I don’t know if i can explain this but i use JLF, and we know it has a very small range of diagonal, if you are in the corner of the gate you have the accurate diagonal, if you move the shaft just a bit, you are on a single direction ( this is a non-levered switch feature IMO). So to do it right, i see like the diagonals on the square gate are in a kind of hole and just push my fingers so the actuator fit on that “hole” everytime i do fireballs or any circular motion and i don’t push hard, it’s just a motion i get used to do with the hand so i have a guide but don’t get stuck on the corner. Took me a long time but i believe the japanese guys do their circular motions like this or in a similar way.
As for Seimitsu sticks, they use levered micros, which makes a bit bigger range of diagonal directions. The best stick for do circular motion without riding the gate is the ls-56/58 (imo) due the very fast engagement and the extra room till you get the gate. I gave up cause i had the accidental jump issue with it and i couldn’t fix this after a long time trainning. But i know other players feels comfortable with it, is just not for me. Ls-32 is most balanced concerning all directions (still bigger range of diagonal than JLF) and the 40 is like 56/58 with less room till reach the gate (throw), still a lot easier to pull of fireball without riding, you just must be more precise and relaxed in comparison to 56/58 for not riding.
JLF is totally the opposite of that, very hard (at least for me) to be consistent without riding the gate, maybe just hard, not impossible…but i fixed my execution problems guiding me on the corner and hearing the micros, who knows…everyone has your own technique.
As Hayabusa being like JLF (non-levered) i believe it has a small range of diagonal too but maybe a bit easier to input due fast engagement but anyway the diagonal is totally on the gate’s corner like JLF is, just a bit better probably. I don’t know actually but this is my idea in advance of how the Hayabusa’s engagement is
Just use a circular gate and ride it all day when playing if you are having diagonal issues.
They key with a square gate is stop thinking in circular motions. Your joystick level needs to move in a L shape. Yes you should avoid riding the gate but occasionally hitting the gate isn’t bad.
Also American style joysticks do not have a circular gate. Technically there no gate, the microswitches are arranged in a square shape and there a square actuator.
Ah, someone else besides me is now spreading the Think in Square philosophy Wait until it turns into a cult, then we’ll all be square thinkers.
Also, anyone who says don’t ride the gate doesn’t understand why there is a gate in the first place.
Guess I’m just a gate rider.
@Moonchilde your cult could be called Gate Rider Aristocrats.
Is there anyway to shrink the joystick housing to fit in smaller spaces? Or would you have to create an entirely new housing?
Dreeeeeeeemellllllll
I would go ahead and start a review thread for the HRAP V3 Hayabusa Wireless.
Even though it was announced months back and that announcement thread still exists, I don’t know that there’s much point in resurrecting a necro-thread.
A review of new product isn’t necessarily redundant… Sometimes you need things like reviews and FAQ’s to be separate from original posts/threads. As much as I hate redundant threads about shit that was talked to death three years ago, this IS new product that happens to use the Hayabusa lever and has different parts from the earlier HRAP V3 releases.
Hayabusa has basically been talked to death over the past two months and what needs to be done now is organizing the facts and statistics of that joystick… I’m in the process of doing a basic FAQ on the Hayabusa myself… (I have the initial draft done.) Another opinion on the joystick isn’t a bad thing, btw, since the Fighting Edge owners didn’t really say much about the Hayabusa or Kuro for the first 18 months those parts were available (on the Fighting Edge).
If you have another joystick in addition to the new HRAP V3 Hayabusa (Wireless), a comparison/personal thoughts on the Kuro versus the Sanwa or Seimitsu buttons would be appreciated… There’s far less information and fewer reviews now on the Kuro. Basically, the part that frustrates more people on existing mass-production joysticks is the control lever. Of course, most of the Hori and Mad Catz joysticks have shipped with JLF’s installed! There are probably far fewer people that truly hate, can’t stand, or can’t use the Sanwa pushbuttons by comparison to people who can’t get the hang of the JLF. I’d say easily that more people replace and sell unused JLF’s than sell off/discontinue using Sanwa pushbuttons altogether! I’ve sold Sanwa buttons only because I changed colors (white is the most overused, bland color out there) and had too many redundant buttons taking up space…
Much as I love vanilla ice cream, I do occasionally like to eat other ice cream flavors, too…!
The L shape might work too, but i didn’t say american sticks have gate…i just said is circular.