The Hayabusa does NOT have a long throw… It’s only slightly more than the LS-32 which is the joystick it’s most like performance-wise. I actually like the throw better on the LS-32. It’s the other LS-joysticks that have somewhat short throws (LS-56/-58) and more serious handling quirks… Hard to put in words sometimes. A stock Hayabusa does NOT feel like an LS-40 or LS-58 to me. No sirree!
The JLF is VERY bad in the sense that it just doesn’t re-center well. That was the big fatal flaw in that joystick as far as I’m concerned. Any of the LS-joysticks people generally use instead of the JLF re-center at least fairly well and much better than the JLF!
The Hayabusa re-centers at least as well as the LS-32 but I think it hits the diagonals better than both the LS-32 and LS-40… Definitely much better handling than the JLF in general. Not even gonna touch the LS-56/-58. That joystick is almost as cursed as the JLF as far as I’m concerned. How much better a Hayabusa is than the LS-32/LS-40/LS-56/etc./etc. is going to be different person to person. For me, it’s around 10-20% better than the LS-32 and somewhat more than that versus the LS-40 (for me). 8-10% improvement is enough for me to switch for future joystick upgrades/JLF replacements in new joystick buys. Again, that’s my opinion. I definitely felt some improvement control-wise.
All these joysticks have design and performance features that are up for individual critique. Forget about one size fits all… No such thing but there are some models people genuinely gravitate to if they can leave the OEM/JLF zone. Most people never leave the OEM zone because A) it’s not safe, how am I gonna get parts for something if it breaks(?!?), and B) they don’t have the cash or inclination to really experiment, period…
It’s definitely in Hori’s best interests to expedite the process of equipping its joystick lines with its own button and stick parts. There’s no reason for Hori to buy joystick levers from either Sanwa or Seimitsu anymore. The Hayabusa is at least as good or better than the other two companies’ products.
Ah… I don’t even want to talk about this much anymore. Maybe I’ll just write up a FAQ about the control lever, post pics of my own, and borrowed images (may I pilfer your images as long as I credit you, Moonchilde?) if anybody’s okay with that.
I don’t have any confidence many people will actually read a Hayabusa FAQ – how many of the noobs actually read the Grey Announcement FAQs before they post the same question (answered 10 years ago!) for the millionth time in Tech Talk? – but it would be a way to organize what’s known and has been discovered about it so far.
We’re just really starting to find out about the Hayabusa… so far, so good. Better than I really expected!
@GeorgeC
I am working on a overall Arcade Parts guide, this will also cover the Hayabusa and Kuro.
Want to work together on this, since you already know what you are going to say for the Hayabusa and Kuro parts
My Outline for the guide
Spoiler
American/ European style parts
*Suzo/Happ
*Industrias Lorenzo (IL)
*Wico
*Nintendo
*Other
Japanese style parts
*Ascii
*Sanwa Denshi
*Seimitsu
*Hori
*Mad Catz
*Qanba
*Game Finger
Korean Style Parts
*Crown
*Myoungshin Fanta
Other
Toodles/God Like Controls
Ponyboy
Kowal
Paradise Arcade Shop
I also want to touch base on various switches/ styles of switches
Leaf Switch
Micro switch
Reed Switch
Optical
Induction
@Moonchilde Yeah, I confirmed it’s hitting the Neutrik. My only options are to move the Neutrik which I am not comfortable with doing, using some plastic to raise where the top screws down to or ignoring it and buy a new stick. I’d actually go with the last option because I want a new custom stick but B15 SDM is really busy right now with current orders and Foehammer hasn’t answered back yet.
@iNENDOi
I did contact them on FB yesterday so I figured I wouldn’t get a response until at least Monday. I think I know why they haven’t seen my communication attempt that I sent using their website as opposed to a traditional email.
“Hi. This is the qmail-send program at mail.hostingplatform.com.
I’m afraid I wasn’t able to deliver your message to the following addresses.
This is a permanent error; I’ve given up. Sorry it didn’t work out.
<sheppard@evolutionmarketinggroup.com>: user is over quota”
Ok, so I got to spend some time with the Hayabusa tonight, side by side with a Kowal actuator + octagonal gate equipped JLF. Lots of retread from what others have said at this pint, but here’s my two cents:
The stock spring is definitely much looser than the stock JLF spring, which doesn’t bother me- easy to change if you don’t like a loose stick. The throw is definitely longer than the JLF with Kowal, the neutral zone seems a hair larger as well. The stick has a very smooth, crisp, snappy feel that I’m really enjoying. After a little bit of time to get used to the feel, I didn’t have any directional accuracy issues. The switches are much louder than the JLF’s, but not enough to bother me- worth the extra noise for the feel they provide. I’m seeing what others mean by the “mushiness” of the JLF after spending some time with the Hayabusa, this is so much more crisp feeling. I’m still able to perform a bit better with the JLF, but we’ll see how things go once I’ve got more time logged on the H. I don’t see myself joining the “JLF is crap” choir at this point, but I’m definitely enjoying the H- glad I bought it.
I’m going to keep it stock for a few days before testing it with the Kowal and a 2lb JLF spring. You can count me in on the custom gates @Moonchilde has been talking about as well.
The Kowal actuator changes a bit of the feel though, it is flange shaped rather than bell so it hits the switches from the top instead of the side. It means less surface area for hitting the pins. Not too big a deal since Seimitsu are like that but then Seimitsu also uses levered switches.
The switches are the same that Seimitsu uses which are known to be louder and then they have a different sound once levers are on. I’m not sure what contributes to the noise since the internals are identical to Omron. Maybe the case is made of a different plastic or something, I have no idea
I always wondered what it was that made those switches louder. On the Hayabusa I notice the sound of the actuator on gate more than the switches though.
As for the Hayabusa, I’ve got the one that I own now plus a loose JLF and LS-32’s and LS-40’s I can take off of existing joysticks and photograph parts for comparison.
Yeah, I could work up something for the Hayabusa pretty soon…
I’ve already photographed that half the Hayabusa/JLF parts… There’s basically very little to say about the Hayabusa other than that the huge differences are in the base with the choice of microswitches and arrangement/position/clustering of said microswitches. I have reservations about the so-called “magic” triangular pivot area in the Hayabusa base. I don’t know that makes as much difference as the microswitches in all honestly. I’m no engineer but I remember the original Hayabusa/Fighting Edge diagrams. Felt like a replay of the “blast processing” nonsense Sega used to advertise about with the Genesis console…
Hayabusa still feels closest to the LS-32 to me. I’d have to install the one JLF I own (it’s from my VLX) in another joystick to get up-to-date input on that… all I can say is that the JLF never recentered well with the mods and amount of time I spent practicing with the stupid hardware. I gave it an honest go but gave up after a year; I’ve been mostly JLF-free for 18 months now. My initial feelings about the Hayabusa were very biased when I read the first descriptions of it. The original reviews very much give you the sense that it’s a JLF clone which is only half-right in retrospect – it’s a JLF-like joystick parts-wise but with Seimitsu handling and feel!
I wonder why the Hayabusa stick wouldn’t fit on the Madcatz SE.
I hope Camacho is actually having problem with the lack of room for the Hayabusa’s 5-pin PCB and the home/turbo PCB (there is a mention about the home/tubo but he don’t explain the main issue)
I can’t see mounting issues in comparison to both JLF and Hayabusa’s base and their screw holes. I intend to get the Hayabusa kinda soon and my fighstick is the Street Fighter IV SE version, which is the same arcade control with a different artwork i suppose. The good news for me is that mine don’t have the home/turbo PCB that large. (different design).
It’s the only arcade i own, so i would be disappointed if the Hayabusa does not fit due other mounting issues apart from that home/turbo one.
I figured this out by noticing that the Hayabusa’s 5-pin little PCB is a bit bigger than JLF 5-pin piece, so i hope this is the only fitting problem. http://minus.com/i/zfOvXqq1STvq
Yeah, the screw holes are the same. I had a JLF mount plate on it when the attempt was made. As Darksakul suggested earlier, You can probably make it work by rotating the stick on the mounting plate, you’ll just have to do some directional wire swapping.
Okay, I got my Hayabusa in my SCV stick, and it barely fits (as in, it still pushes against the top a bit more than I’m comfortable with). It appears to be capable of narrowly clearing the Cerberus PCB, so the only thing I can think of it hitting at this point is the actual X360 PCB.
Of course. I don’t know just how much I was supposed to cut, but I cut off everything that jutted above the small wall connecting it to the pieces on the left.
