Here a new project I’m currently working on: it’s a complete overhaul of the Hori Fighting Commander.
I have a friend who LOVES the FC4, but detroy the D-pad, and also, the old vesion is not X-input.
Before the Brook products existed, using the FC4 for padhacking was common, so I also ended with a lot of empty shell.
By chance, the FC4 is thick, so I hace a lot of space to put stuff inside.
I’ve showed some stuff on twitter, but I think it’s nicer when you have an actual thead to read.
So here’s a list of what I’m going to do:
Replace all the electronic to fit a Brook UFB or PS4+ audio,
Keep the L3/R3 switch assignation,
Add the madcatz MLG USB plug,
Replace the buttons membrane with real microswtiches (Cherry MX blue or Sanwa/Seimitsu),
Replace the bumper/trigger button with omron microswitch blue (the same as Razer mouses),
Design an entirely different system for the D-Pad, similar to Sawna/Seimitsu stick.
For the buttons, I’ve made a protoype of cap to help me measuring a real height for the buttons:
So I know that even Sanwa SW-68 will fit inside (but you’ll have to cut the quick connect tabs). Seimitsu MM9-2 will be perfect. Cherry will be tricky not for their height, but they will be verry closed to each other.
D-Pad will be mechanically like a Sanwa JLF, but with microswitches similar from mouses (50m clics, omron blue like Razer product).
Also, D-Pad will be changable like ball top, but instead, you will have different crosses.
My protoype of “Xbox one Elite controller”-like Dpad:
All the mechanism is drawn on paper, I need to made them in 3D then print them. I need a metalic rod at some point with thread, so I’ll have to find a way to make it.
I’m loving this project. Always knew once 3D printing becomes more accessible the projects would flow! Always wanted to make my own gamepad with a NGCD style D-pad and micro switched buttons. Tremendous effort man!
I’ve looked for the NGCD D-pad since it’s thiner for an other project (a mini arcade machine 8" tall).
It’s totaly doable (no metalic part requiered) but it needs 4 custom springs, and a JLF-style only one.
Since I don’t know yet where I’m going to find the spring and since I have a lot of height space, I choose the JLF mecanism.
JLF design is great no doubt. The NGCD D-pad feels great but the design is quite complex, the micro switches while easy to source can prove difficult to work with due to needing a PCB and spacers or side plungers if you will, although I’m sure they could be 3D printed, still hard to work them with and like you said the springs can become a problem. I’ve lubed my NGCD pads and NGCD2 and USB pads and they are very intricate to put back together, not for someone like you I’m sure but for me it required quite a bit of fineness. JLF design is great, maybe even an octo restrictor of some sort? That would give you a great feel IMHO.
This looks sooo sweet… I’m not a pad player at all but i have the (lastest?) version of the Fighting commander which includes PC XInput mode but doesn’t do the adjustable dpad thing.
I like it a lot and i think i’ll be doing the Madcatz ProCable Connector mod as i have both the male and female connectors
Do i really need the 3D Printing thing to make it fit on my pad?
Thanks.
Well I don’t know for the last revision of the Fighting Commander, but I 3Dprinted the parts to make an easy installation. There’s enough eight, I avoid putting screws and and the plug cannot move when the controller is closed (it wiggle a bit though).
And with the right colors (+ colored epoxy) this give me somehow a good finish (I may have to paint it)
I’ve also fixed the support of the UFB with some milliput:
UFB without the terminals and the USB-B plug:
Here’s my research for the D-pad:
It stands on the spherical parts (needs lube) and allows the rotation.
The axis course is about 10° (-5° neutral +5°) this should be enough. My print is too tight so it doesn’t work well. I’ll have to give a bit of loose)
Sorry for the lack of update. I was busy with work, and hadn’t do much.
As I said I’m not touching the Dpad for now, and I’ll advance on the main guts of the pad.
I took a lot of time to align the Main PCB with the brook UFB. I finally managed to laydown layout for the Main PCB, the Buttons PCB and the Trigger/Shoulder PCB.
Main PCB: This is where the Start/Select/Home stuff will be. The CON_J9, Player_LEDS and LS/DP/RS should be aligned with the Brook UFB underneath.
A few modification: Players LEDs of course, but my friend want a “Lock” switch to prevent pushing start/select. So the PS3/PS4 switch became the keylock switch. I move the PS3/PS4 switch in symmetry of the one who select the layout of the LR buttons. It will select the function of the turbo button: turbo switch or touchpad switch.
The buttons PCB: This one is design for seimitsu MM9-2 switches. Eventually I’ll make other boards for different type of switch (like cherryMX or Sanwa) but It still need some refines for properly fixing it.
The Trigger/Shoulder PCB: This one replace the small PCBs for LR buttons. I’m going to use ultra low profile microswitches (the same as some Logitech/Razer, 50m clics). and as opposed as Hori original designs which are different from left and right, mine is the same design and can be used in either one or the other
I need to print all of them on cardboard to check positions, and see where I’m going to fixe the button PCB (targeting a support on top of the Brook)
I didn’t make all that I wanted (it’s cold in my workshop).
But here’s some update:
I tested the main PCB and everything works great so far (after a correction near the switch chip since I made an error which disabled it ) : Lock switch, selection between Turbo/Touchpad switch, selection between L3R3-L1L2 or L1L2-R1R2 as long as Start/Select/Home and of course the Left and Right PCBs:
It’s aligned well with the brook underneath, and I’ve tested the MLG plug. It should close properly with the screws:
Now, the second part: the 6 buttons layout. It fits well with the Seimitsu MM9-2. However I don’t know where I got wrong with my measurements, but I really don’t think the Sanwa SW-68 will fit.
I don’t know yet if I’m going to 3D print all the buttons or just cut the olds one.
To finish this part, I need to:
add stands for the 6 buttons PCBs.
Add 1mm of plastic right on the middle of each for L/R buttons to exacly click on the microswitch.
links last connexions with the Brook UFB (players LEDs, LS/DP/RS, Turbo, Touchpad). I need to find the correct headpins sockets for the Players LEDs (I need a long one and it’s not really common for 2.00mm spacing ones)
Some screws here and there
And the electronic/buttons will be done! I’ll do my best to finish that next week-end.
I know the feeling of a cold workshop, bundle up like hell only to feel too confined to work well. I commend your resilience and intestinal fortitude, this is going to be phenomenal!
Edit: I think the 3D buttons is the way to go. Didn’t at first but looking back, it’s really the best option.
) : Lock switch, selection between Turbo/Touchpad switch, selection between L3R3-L1L2 or L1L2-R1R2 as long as Start/Select/Home and of course the Left and Right PCBs:
