So
- I’ve managed to keep the original buttons by just cut the inside,
- I’ve added the stands and everything fit well,
- I’ve redone the LEDs players with bigger ones,
I’ll focus on the L/R buttons and need the last connectors.
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Testing the last connections between the two boards:
L1/R1 Buttons for a proper contact on the new microswitches. I did something similard for the L2/R2.
Ta-da! I put back the old Dpad for now, more for testing the other buttons.
Now I need to work on the Dpad. Not going to update for a while (maybe a part 1 video about it)
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I wanted to say something about trying to keep the original buttons but I didn’t want to discourage you since everything is coming out so well. Good thinking!
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Here’s the video about it:
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Bump!
Part 2 of the overhaul: D-pad with omron microswitches:
I went for the straight approach after the “lever” went nowhere feasable.
Need to make a video about it.
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Hey - why don’t you 3D print that design inside a grip, then fit it to a JLF connector running through a cable that drops in to a 24mm hole? Would be WAY better as a mix box design than stuff that’s case mounted…
Did you look at the rest if the thread?
I did, I meant as a spinoff from this mod he could sell
It’s done, I need to make a video on the next following weeks. PCB + 3D models will be published, and maybe I’ll sell some on my store.
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Video is up, alongside all the files you"ll need if you want to do your own D-Pad (links on the description).
Let me know if someone is interested to buy some D-Pads kits on my store:
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How much for the d-pad mod. I plan to do this to my Hori so that I will be more eager to use it.
PCB are here (20pcs) and I should receive some PETG to print the parts. However microswitches are comming from China and I’m wainting for other stuff from them for more than 2 months now.
D-pad Kit should be around 15/20 bucks depending of the sourcing of the microswitches.
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