Oh well my multimeter’s fine, but the afterglow controller doesn’t work anymore. But yeah I’m definitely not going to do that again. So ohms is for resistance, so I’m assuming ACV and DCV is for voltage? Do the A and D stand for analogue and digital or something?
Also, how do I go about testing voltage on the FGW?
I feel like this problem is dragging on forever, sorry if I’m being a pain lol.
Alternating Current ant Direct Current.
For testing the FGWidget, you will use DC.
For testing any Arcade Sticks really, you will use DC.
Black Probe will go to Ground of the FGWidget.
Red Probe will go to what you want to test on the FGWidget.
Ok cool thanks for the clarification! I’ll test that out tonight then and post what the meter says.
Ok so I tested VCC on the FGW and the meter read as 4.97. Is that normal?
Oh and it turns out my afterglow pcb is fine, I didn’t ruin it lol.
That is normal.
Because the FGWidget is supposed to be powered by +5V.
Ok cool. So ground and vcc on the FGW seem to be fine, is there anything else I should test?
Post #20 of this Thread by Toodles.
Derp my bad lol. Ok so I tested those out, all of the buttons except for the triggers were at 3.30 with the button unpressed, the triggers were at 0.65. After pressing the button it went to 0.
Post #13 next 
So should I connect wire from jab, strong, and fierce IN to ground, and then plug in the stick? And should this be without any of the signal lines connected?
Yes. Correct.
Thanks for the endorsement.
I experimented with The afterglow PCBs, both Xbox 360 and PS3. They are not common ground. :eek:
Although for my first twin stick I used a Game Stop branded Mad Catz 4716, the new one is a Mad Catz Fight pad PCB.
Mine did not have turbo.
I would help more, but between JDM and toodles it looks like they got this thing.
Since Afterglow PCB is not Common Ground.
I say there is the problem.
Well if there wasn’t a problem, OP would not make the thread.
My advise is to ditch the Afterglow PCB and get something else, Something thats common ground.
a Mad Catz 4716 or Fight Pad PCB, A Paewang PCB, a PS360, even a Xbox 360 TE PCB.
I prefer the Mad Catz Fight Pad PCB, as it is easier to wire for.
Don’t even bother with the PDP Fight pad as only person I know use used that board with another correctly is Gummowned.
After Glow PCB can be used with a FG Widget, but would it require diodes to be hacked into each button and d-pad direction, as if you are doing a dual-mod?
Well, the pictures look common ground, at least for the four face buttons. The voltage tests on the signals also look common ground, but a matrixed setup could easily confuse the readings from a simple meter. The problem the OP was having was of the FGW interfering with the signals, which makes sense considering the board wasn’t powered before now; that’s been fixed.
Once the most recent test from #13 is done, we’ll know if the KNserts were wired correctly. If not, easy to fix, and if they are, then the signals can be slowly connected; if it the afterglow freaks out, then we’ll know they wont play well together, but I’m not seeing any reason to stop right now. Worst case scenario, the OP will have proof the LED Controller and KNserts are working, but wont be able to work with the pad. Best case scenario, everything works well together.
I wonder then if PDP made a later revision of their Afterglow PCBs.
My Xbox 360 PCB was that the 4 face buttons have 1 ground, the dpad isn’t common ground, LB and RB are another ground inertly.
Start, back and guide has there own ground again. The Afterglow’s board’s LEDs (not the guide LEDs, the LEDs that light up the controller), I didn’t test for their ground. That isn’t including the LT and RT triggers.
I do know this project is salvageable, just from my standpoint with my level of skills I would of switch boards at this point.
Ok so I tried the forced reset. I wired jab strong and fierce *IN to gnd and plugged in the stick. Everything worked fine, all the buttons responded. So I unplugged it and tried wiring up the signal lines again, and got the same problems from before.
Then the afterglow you have isn’t common ground, and can’t be made to work with the LED controller. The best I can offer is to remove the wires in the *_IN points you just put in. The cylon screensaver will still go, but it wont react to button pressed since there are none connected. Anything more than that, and you’ll need to swap the afterglow with a common ground pcb like a fightpad.
Yeesh, now I’ve wired up my fightpad and absolutely none of the buttons except for Start are responding, even when it’s not connected to the FGW. What have I done? Oh god, what have I done? I double checked the wires and everything’s in place, there’s no break in the ground daisy chain or anything.
It seems like this is a losing battle. I get the feeling I’ll have to go back to the afterglow without using the LEDs ;_;
Why do you want to use Afterglow though?