Nice!
What buttons do I use for a Madcatz SE stick? are they available on Lizardlick? I’ve been looking for hours, please help!
for HOURS? your eyes must hurt…
Sanwa Pushbuttons
Seimitsu Pushbuttons
30mm for your pushbuttons… start and select you will have to widen the hole to use 24 mm so just keep em stock…enjoy
None of the buttons are clear color, does this matter?
couple hours looking I think you actually went “Blind” HAHA!. Here ya go muffin.
Seimitsu 30mm GNC Screw-In Buttons for just the center "clear"
Seimitsu 30mm KN Screw-In Buttons for the WHOLE button "clear"
heres another website… translucent “clear” buttons. just pick the color…
http://www.focusattack.com/products/Seimitsu-PS14%2dKN-Pushbutton.html
they are as clear as you can get with pushbuttons. the trade forum will also have Rollie buttons that are “clear” if you want snap-in buttons. I’m sure you can find those yourself. good luck in your projects.
Thank you! Finally I can get this fightstick finished!
Hey, can anyone share what method they used to glue the art down? I got my stick modded with clear semitsus but the art keeps on rotating. My OCD is in overdrive when I see misaligned art, so I’d love to hear anyone’s experience with gluing / securing the art to the interior of the button.
I do things a lil diff than mentioned here. I use an exacto knife, prob like most people, cause they are cheap and super sharp cause of the changeable blades. Never dull from doing dumb shit with your pocket knife. I use nickles to cut out the artwork to go inside 30mm buttons and dimes to go inside 24 mm buttons. Now this cuts them the exact size so you want to angle the blade a lil outward so it cuts them bigger so the art wraps over the edges of the plunger so you can’t see your cut at all. Just looks perfect, surgical. I just use a plain kids gel elmers glue stick to hold the art in place on the plungers. No goop or no mess, just press down the back of the art that’s going in the button on top of the glue stick and spin it a lil, then peel it off the glue stick and it has perfect thin layer, no mess. Sorry if that was confusing at all, glad to post pics if anyone wants.
thats a good tip…i’m finally going to start using our beaver coins for something 
yah… I forgot about people without access to US monetary. I tried some Australian coins 5, 10, 25, 50, $1, and $2. Seems like American coins are where its at. Hopefully international players can find some coinage that works as good as nickles and dimes. If not maybe request some in the trading outlet. = p
Thought I’d reply with my own experience. Even though this is a relatively simple procedure, I was scared to open up my joystick. Maybe this will help someone else.
I had someone else dual mod and install art on my Mad Catz TE, but they forgot to glue it on. I was going crazy because my awesome art looked like this:
I had to open up the top of the joystick and pop off the tops of the buttons.
On most of the buttons, I was able to unscrew the lock to access the tabs, but on a few I had to pop the tabs off using either a paper clip or a #0 flat head.
Once the top is popped off, the art, plunger, and clear lid look like the above.
I know this is super simple, but I hope it helps someone. My art was cut by Art @ Tek-Innovations, so it was perfectly proportioned. Alternatively, you could also glue directly to the white plunger.
Face the art on the ground and apply pressure to the back. Be sure to wipe off any excess glue with your finger.
Once it’s done, the art ain’t going nowhere!
Once you place the tops back in, you’ll need to rotate the button from the underside of the case as seen in the second picture until the art aligns on the top. You will need to re tighten the screw lugs thereafter.
Once it’s done you’ll have awesome looking art!
Again, I hope this wasn’t too simple or a waste of space, but I hope it helps!
-Grantb
Couple of questions –
A) Has anybody made up a template for doing cutouts? You’re losing a small portion of the art in the cut-outs… Not so bad for large art and abstract designs but for character faces who likes seeing noses, chins, eyes, and ears cut off?
I’m thinking of doing at least 2-3 future mods with clear buttons (a mix of 30mm push-in Seimitsu and Rollies plus 24mm Rollies).
I have small character artwork I want to work with and am concerned about cut-off of faces…
B) Did I mention a template would be nice for turning on/off to see how it affects art…
C) Rollie buttons are NOT identical to Seimitsu’s. I think it was said in another thread that the Rollie’s have 0.2mm less diameter in the plunger than Seimitsus.
D) Even Seimitsu’s are NOT identical. I am not sure about external dimensions but know for a fact that the PS-14-KN’s and original PS-14-K’s use not only different microswitches (PS-14-K cross-compatible with Rollie and Sanwa SW-68 switches) but it looks from the Akihabarashop website that the buttons are slightly differently shaped, too.
E) Possibility of a template for 24mm clear buttons, too? To my knowledge, alll clear 24mm Seimitsu’s are screw-on buttons. Only Rollie is making push-in 24mm clear pushbuttons at the moment…
Very nice to find this thread again!
Thanks Mods for reviving this thread in the Intro, Rules, Tutorial, and Info Thread!
Google Searches just aren’t working for SRK Tech Talk at the moment…
So I ordered a set of clear sanwas to switch from my seimetsus, but the open up differently! I can get the plunger out but the very top clear plastic stays… how do I get under this??
What if I’m asking Tek-Innovations to print my artwork out. Does he have some sort of template showing the button and another circle in the center where you put the art?
No,
On the artwork template for cut-outs… I haven’t seen those anywhere and I’m pretty sure Art doesn’t have them up on his site.
Think about it… WHY would he put that up on his site and undercut part of his services? Nothing sinister there — it’s just some people don’t want to do this for themselves but he also doesn’t have to give the info up for competitors, either.
Best way to guess-timate cutouts would be to do measurements of the insides of the transparent buttons. You have to take into account the distance between the inner-outer rim of the button (with the bevel that lies on top of the faceplate) and the plunger part as well as the thickness of the plunger itself. You’ll lose around 6-8mm thickness in total minimum; roughly 2.5-4mm X 2 (each side) from the diameter of the button. That means an inner core art diameter of 22-24mm max under the plunger cover. That’s just going off the measurements I took from the solid colored Sanwa 30mm buttons (which should be near identical to the new transparent line Sanwas). So yeah, you’ll have to be careful with art cutoff. Best NOT to place small faces/facial features in areas of the button holes that WILL get partly cut off. Better to do this with oversized, simple artwork!
You might have to experiment with a few test templates to figure the measurements out for yourself. Of course, the measurements for the templates will be different between the manufacturers that make transparent buttons for arcade sticks (Sanwa, Seimitsu, and Rollie Electronics). Also, don’t assume that the Seimitsu Skeleton buttons are the same, either, because they’re not! The Seimitsu PS-14-K plug-ins use PS-14D microswitches which are smaller than the PS-14-G microswitches that the screw-in PS-14-KN’s use. There are probably interior differences in the shells, too. It’s already been reported by several people who’ve used both buttons that the PS-14-K’s feel “lighter” to the touch (more like PS-14-P Pearls). They seem to move freer and activate crisply by reports, too.
Okay I’ve figured out how to open my clear sanwas. But on the topic:
Yes, you’re going to lose some art around the edges. What I’ve found is cutting the exact center out works best, even if youre missing, lets say, a characters pupil. Leaving it for the brain to piece together rather than distorting the image is better.
I used the top of the inner core of my seimetsu PS14KN’s to trace out the art cores for the sanwas OBSC 30s.
Hmmmm. I do have Seimitsu buttons but there must be some easy way to find the measurements in one go.
Quick question. What if you are going to use clear buttons to put artwork in but dont want the artwork to move, BUT you plan on changing artwork at a later date. Would using a small bit of blu-tac on top of the button work to keep it in place? Being it’s sticky would it not keep the art from rotating freely on top of the plunger while being easy to remove later if you wanted to change the art? Has anyone tried or willing to try this method? I dont have my buttons yet or I’d try it myself. Also curious on the size needed on the template for arthobbies tek-innovations as I’ll be getting my plexi/art from there at the same time as I order my buttons. has anyone figured this out yet?
Plan on using these buttons in particular
http://www.lizardlick.com/Seimitsu-PS-14-KN-30mm-Pushbutton-Smoke_p_622.html
and most likely this template and I know the deadpool button images are probably already too large for the middle of the buttons. I know I prob won’t get it exact but close as possible would be nice :D.
http://img.booru.org/SRKsticks//images/1/f4cd75f66e1fd2fdbc9010047659ea3b1e39e3b8.png
Blue tac would work but I don’t recommend it because you’ll see a bulge from the blue tac which can make the top clear part covering the artwork not fit on properly.
I’d suggest double sided scotch tape. Or your can get a small piece of scotch tape and roll it into a double sided with the loop and then a little dab of superglue in the loop to make your own double sided tape.
Thanks Mr. Blonks. Was wondering if the blu-tac would cause an issue like that. The scotch tape sounds like a plan though.