Did you ever start modding your T5 stick? I just got one and would like to do the same.
Does anyone know if the T5 stick is grounded?
Hello everyone,
I’m new to the forums here, and new to modding controllers and sticks, and it is nice to see so much information in this community.
I got a question about the SF Anniversary Stick. I’m following the tutorial here but I will not be adding a playstation controller, reason for that is that I want to keep the manufactured ps2/xbox cable that comes with it, so I am only trying to add the pcb of the madcatz stick to it. I couldnt find any specific info to this on these boards, so here are a couple questions:
1- Will everything work ok if I add the 360 pcb to the original wiring of this stick? Is there some sort of problem when adding a pcb to the original wiring?
2- Do I have to add a jumper from the madcatz pcb power to the original stick power like you do with the playstation and the 360 pcbs? Do you do this because of the single ground? If you have to, I’d like to know why that is, if someone knows, since I’m not very good with eletronics and I’d like to learn more about this.
3- And lastly, I noticed the ground daisy chain between the 8 buttons is a separate chain from the ground daisy chain between the stick and the start/select buttons. Do I join them together? If not, how do I deal with the ground on the madcatz pcb and the two grounds from the SFA stick?
Thanks so much in advance!!
not yet unfortunatly, school and money keeping me from doing it right now. I think my mod is really just going to be like starting from scratch. Working with the default hori pcb would be too much of a pain.
I actually didn’t try using the SFAC PCB because it has poor compatibility with converters for other systems. I have no idea if is common ground which is required for it to work.
I checked the picture of my stock buttons and there is a single ground that goes to everything. In my case it went from Up to the Select/Start button.
Thanks for checking Kyle, much appreciated!
That is weird that yours is different, my grounds go board>left>up>right>down>select>start. The grounds for the other buttons start at a different wire harness coming from the board.
I guess I’ll either just wire the ground to one of the chains and see what happens, or just yank the ps2/xbox wires out of there.
I noticed the QDs you bought from radioshack come in 2 different sizes. Does it matter?
It’s only $1.99, so I’ll probably buy 2 packs since my bro works there and gets 30% off. Besides, buying from Lizardlick, I get charged $5.45 for shipping.
very nice tutorial you have. now if we could just get a hrap pcb diagram so i could dual mod my hrap2 with a madcatz retro arcade pcb!
Just got a $20 madcatz pad (new version) for this project. I’m kind of excited about this now.
Do you recommend scraping the black off the 360 pad and soldering to those points as well? I couldn’t tell if you did that or not in your pictures. Your ps1 recommendation will be taken
edit: important question that crossed my mind. Can I just use my scrapped common ground trace jlf pcb for this project? Or do I need to order a new one? If I’m daisy chaining the common ground across all the microswitches it seems like I can just use the jlf pcb I have (to use the original hori pcb I had to break the common ground traces on the jlf stick pcb) . Can anyone confirm or deny this?
Does anyone know if this mod (PS1+X360 CGround) can be mixed with a PS3 common ground, using the DPDT switch splitting the DATA- and DATA+ USB , like explained by KOD on VFDC ?
Apparently people keep replying to this thread when I’m not around.
I have a HRAP 2 SA coming in on Tuesday. We should finally have an answer for this damned question then. :wgrin:
I haven’t seen any black coating on the Mad Catz pads I’ve worked with. It shouldn’t be necessary.
I gutted the ps1 controller, can I just snip the wires to the vibration motors?
Yes, they are fine to remove.
thx, soldered to the directional arrows and they work great. I did realize the grounds and switches were reversed on my controller for some reason… no biggie though
edit: I’m working with a new H version ps1 pad, do I need to desolder the triggers and use those points for R1 and R2?
results of today:
semi sucesses, I lost my r1 button for reasons I can’t explaain. Soldered to the l2 wire coming off the harness for FP. I’ll have to map that when I play, but overall no big loss
I finished today, here are the guts laid out on the work bench.
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/2672/picturefyk.th.jpg
I had to solder to each button since I didn’t want to wait for new ones. It was surprisingly easy to daisy chain to the prongs of the buttons. After a few resolders (Hot glue is my nextstep) from points failing, it all came together nicely. Now I’ve got to actually get it in the case… But I’m off for vacation tomorrow so it’ll wait. Thanks for the great guide, using your guide and a few blips of improvisation it works!
edit: another interesting tidbit: I killed my r1 button (or so I think, I forgot to test this controller before soldering) so I had to solder to a replacement. I got scared soldering to the board at a similar point at the L2 spot, so I took the wire out of the harness connecting the triggers, wrapped it around a wire and soldered them together. Connection works great… And no more killed buttons
i was wondering if you find this out? is it possible to use the HRAP PCB?
It is definitely possible since others have done it. My HRAP 2 can in with a bad PCB so unfortunately I was never able to complete this mod. It ended up returning as DOA to the seller. :wasted:
I plan on dual modding my madcatz SE fightstick, so after looking at your diagram on how to soldier, would this set-up work? Sorry for the messy diagram.
P.S. - Anyone know how to remove the quick-disconnects on the wires themselves (decrimp)? Thanks!
Okay, so I’m a total nub. I wanna work a 360 pcb in with ShinJN’s Axisdapter, and I have a question. Why do we only have to have one ground connected on each of the controller pcbs? Thanks for the help!