Shameless Bump
Is the balltop glued to the stick or something?
I’m almost destroying the bottom of the stick and the balltop doesn’t move! It ends up with the flag screwdriver damaging the bottom of the stick more and more each time I try…
:crybaby:
It’s in kinda tight but I don’t think its glued. Just gotta twist the top while holding the screwdriver steady.
It is. And the restrictor is glued to the bottom shell.
As you can see, with the terminals folded down, the buttons do indeed fit under the original PCB. There are holes drilled in the PCB, but that’s because I was experimenting with wiring layouts and not because they are necessary. Here’s a complete top view:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee311/undamned_photobucket/Joysticks/th_DSC07363_r.jpg
It looks ok, but it’s far from what I want to do with it. I’ve got a pretty grand scheme in mind, but I won’t go into detail till I’m ready to present it (and who knows when that will be, with all the other projects I’ve got going on, haha).
-ud
Awesome job undamned!
Right now i’m working my ass out to enlarge the holes for the buttons. I couldn’t find a 23mm/24mm rottary saw anywhere here, so i’m using a polishing tool with a “rottary sandpaper”. I spent 3 hours sanding the plastic of one hole and the bottom part didn’t come out yet (it’s almost tho, the plastic is already semi-transparent) but I really needed some better tools I think…
On a side note, how does this stick “feels” when playing? Is it good? The lack of a top dustwasher makes me think that my hand will stuck when playing, I don’t know
Edit: Does anyone have the mapping of this PCB? Where is the ground? 
Damn that’s sexy…I might mod the buttons after all 
also Hardc0re if you are talking about the stick PCB the common ground is the HUGE part of the circuit at the top/bottom. It’s kind of hard to miss
My knowledge in electronics is below zero
ok.
Everywhere that red line is is common ground. Basically anything on the edges of the PCB. I suggest using the top left corner because there are nice fat solder points there and little risk for shorts.
Hm nice, it’s easier than I tought 
But if for some reason I decide to cut the PCB in 2 pieces, it looses the common ground right? Since I need more space I’m thinkin in cutting one piece for the Start/Select Buttons and another Piece for the Turbo Buttons.
In this case I’ll need to wire a ground for each button right?
Thanks! Sanding stinks, huh! The cheapest step drill/unibit I can find is about $30 shipped:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250629240463
It comes with 3 bits, but one of them will work for both 24mm as well as 30mm, which would be handy for other projects involving 30mm buttons.
Fine! I can’t say I ever noticed any problem, but then again, I can’t say I “use” the dust washer to make my hand glide while playing.
Looks like threi hooked you up :tup: Unless you are going to try and dual mod (SNES + Something else) this thing, I recommend soldering action buttons to the 2ndary PCB, not the original one. It’s less soldering and less of a chance for stray resistance from the original PCB. For the Start, Select, Home, etc. buttons, on the original PCB, you can cut the NON-ground signal and solder that to your common ground 2ndary PCB. Be sure and join the ground plane from the original PCB to your 2ndary PCB, somewhere.
You can just join the ground on the two halves. Makes it like one PCB. Just be careful how you cut the PCB. There’s a reason for the screw placement. You don’t want to cut it and then realize that when you press buttons they don’t always work because the PCB is only held on by one screw now.
-ud
I won’t dual mod, I’ll be using a Cthulu-like board for it. So yes, the action buttons will be soldered directly into the Cthulu.
I need to solder the NON-GROUNDING of the PCB to the GROUND of my Cthulu?
And then the Common Ground of the PCB to the desired button of my Cthulu?
It’s backwards like that? Or am I understanding something wrong?
Yes I tought of the screw placement. I was thinking more in the lines of cut just the part where the 6 snap-in buttons will be, but I think I’ll copy your layout
Edit: Managed to find a 24mm rottary saw in a Virtual Shop. Next Week I’ll be able to rip this thing off!
What I meant by “non-ground” was the actual button signal. Each switch will have ground and a signal. On the original PCB, you want to cut free all the signal traces which you want to use (start, select, etc.). You then wire the Cthulu ground to the original PCB ground, and Cthulu Start, Select, etc. to the original PCB Start, Select, etc. side of the switches.
-ud
My brother just found his CPS while cleaning up some old electronics in his house. I’m going to go thru thus thread and figure out what I want to do with this thing…
if 24mm sanwas fit, would 24mm seimitsus fit as well? I just wanna try something different.
Well I hope they do, because next week 6 24mm Seimitus are going to arrive at my house, from akihabarashop, and I bought them for this stick.
I’ll let you know
But i’ll probably fit.
The case holes will work for both, just be sure you use snap-ins. I can not guarantee the button depth is the same, though. You may or may not be able to get away with sneeking them under the stock PCB.
-ud
ok
next question: how sturdy is it? I mean these buttons are designed for wood/metal panels, and this stick is thin plastic. Can it handle abuse like the stock buttons can? (I’m trying to visualize how it even manages to fit in my head and am drawing a blank)
If you make the holes properly and assemble the case properly, I have full confidence in it’s sturdiness. The buttons are mounted very close to major structural support, so when you mash buttons you aren’t relying solely on the thickness of the face.
-ud
I finally found a hole saw of 24mm.
It’s like this one, but 24mm
http://www.toolbaydirect.co.uk/showimg.php?id=145174&position=1&size=full
But now i have another problem.
I was using a roto-magic (you use it to polish stuff) but it’s way too weak. If you push it too hard on the plastic, it stops spinning (yeah lol).
And if I use it on the regullar driller (I tested it in another plastic) it’s way too strong! I can’t hold the thing in place and it starts walking over the plastic.
did u use a regular driller undamned?
I used a drill press with a forstner type bit. I had to clamp down the top half of the case using blocks of wood and it was really not a setup I would recommend (difficult to repeat).
As I recommended a few times earlier, using a step-drill/unibit would be by far the best all around solution. If you want to stick with the hole saw, I do recommend you use an actual drill, but you will need to find a way to keep the case from moving. Here is my suggestion:
-ud
