update
It was tough, but I got it dual modded 
I had to remove the battery compartment to get space for the second PCB. I found a guide to get gamecube triggers working, improvised a bit, and got both analog and digital triggers working for the classic controller. It doesn’t light up for the classic controller .
I can post a guide for the specific controller I used if anyone is interested.
Dangeresque! Is that the 3rd party controller you posted in the GC TvC thread?
-ud
yup
I’m about to buy one of these for 3~5 dollars (:D) and I would like to know if its possible to mod it by changing the buttons and the joystick (I want to use Seimitsu)
Is it possible? Or a regular Seimitsu/Sanwa stick doesn’t fit this very slim arcade stick?
As stated earlier by jdm714, the old Japanese ones had Sanwa JLW and the US/new Japanese ones have basically an unbranded Seimitsu LS-40. That being said, use something like one of those and you should be fine. For buttons, you are limited to 24mm. The holes are too close together to allow for 30mm. You will also have to widen the existing holes to allow the 24mm buttons to fit. I would recommend picking up a step drill bit. They are pricey, but will allow you to make perfect widened holes rather than spending hours trying to do it by hand only to end up with something that is far from perfect.
-ud
I’m concerned about the joystick because the original one from the controler is very strange, it seems like it is clustered into a big plastic box.
Seems like I’ll have to disassemble the JLF and try to assemble it into that box?
It is a Sanwa stick in these with Omron 2582RA2 Microswitches. The stick on this was really nice I remember back in the SNES days. The button were okay, but some of mine no longer work. Maybe I should mod this sometime too.
To say that US spec sticks didn’t have a Sanwa is incorrect. I got mine for my birthday from my dad at Toy R Us when I was a kid and it was like $100 at the time. It does indeed have a sanwa.
For different joysticks: yeah the CPSF has a housing made specifically for that stick, i’m not sure how successful you would be putting in another joystick. I’m not sure its really ideal for modding because it’s all thin plastic. Personally I find the stock parts good enough, even despite the slight mushiness of the buttons.
Cool! Thanks for the correction! :bgrin:
-ud
Oh word?
I’m wrong in something for first time.
Oh word?
I’m wrong in something for first time.
Shhhh!
Quiet…! The speculators will jack up the prices of these things once they hear the joysticks inside are arcade-quality!
Remember how runs have begun on some older sticks like the Namco’s?
Just got mine! It cost 3 dollars 
But i gonna ditch the pcb and the buttons, only keep the joystick. Gonna be a problem with those start/select/turbo buttons tho, because i wanted to kee those, but the way they work now will be a huge problem. I gotta figure out how to keep them and make they work
Nice price! :bgrin: I used 24mm snap in buttons, folded the switch terminals over, and had enough room to leave the PCB in. You can just cut traces to the PCB switches for whatever functions you want (start, home, etc.).
-ud
And then you soldered the originial PCB into the other PCB u put in there? For Start/Select buttons and such?
Did you had to cut anything on the plastic surface to use the 24mm snap ins?
Did you change the stick or used the original one?
Can you please post pictures of it and explain what you did? I bet i’m not gonna be the only one gratefull if you do it 
Neat thread. I installed a Cthulhu PS3 version into a CPS stick with a Seimitsu LS40 clone. http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=162026&p=5657286#post5657286 back in October of '08.
Not nearly as neat and not set up for Multiconsole. Wish I saw this thread earlier.
Is it easy to change the stick Taiki?
Another question.
Do you feel the way the stick works on this controler is kinda bad? I mean, there’s no dustwasher to make your hand “slide” during a Hadouken for example. In this one, the depression it has seems like it traps your hand inside it.
Yes, but just to be safe, I would recommend cutting the traces to the switches on the original PCB, just to avoid the possibility of stray resistance messing things up.
I just kept the original. I took it apart, cleaned it, and lubed the pivot parts with silicon lubrication (you need to use something that will not attack plastics).
I started a guide on modding the CPS Fighter Stick a while back, but I still need to finish it up w/ more pictures and details. I’ll be busy this month, moving and finishing up some modding orders, but possibly next month :karate:
-ud
Meanwhile, can you at least post a picture of the finished thing?
I really wanna see how the 24mm buttons look on this controller.