might as well post my progress:
I decided to use the two turbo buttons as LB and LT, so instead of soldering the wires to the HEX inverter (annoying as hell), i soldered it to a PCB i had lying around. It seems all that first year engineering stuff came in handy 
I see an upcoming problem though: the wires are starting to fill the inside of the stick, I may not have enough space for the 360 PCB. We will see what happens though.
Update:
Itās done 
I had to do a little cutting of the board to get the 360 PCB to fit, and it was pretty tight, but i got it in (and also got the headphone jack as well :))
The finished product:
interesting choice on a stick to convert to 360.
but cool nonetheless. good job!
Congratz on getting it working.
Now we need someone to try for wireless with the handy battery compartment right there.
Holy shit, nice! I totally forgot I have one of these in my basement with my other SNES stuff.
Iāll be cracking mine open tonight if I remember to.
What are the odds an LS-32 will fit in one of these?
good shit Threi
How are you liking it? Itās your first stick right?
the stick isnāt exactly vertical, but slanted a bit, that takes a bit of getting used to.
I have no point of reference as to whether this stick is actually any good or not, so im not sure, but right now i completely suck at it. 
Wireless mod
I bought a cheap microsoft wireless controller and used that. It was quite easy to solder in and I used the round green button on the right as the xbox 360 guide button. I inverted my wireless board and drilled some holes on the bottom to see which green led lit up when it was paired to the 360. I also had to drill a small but un-noticeable hole in the front for the pairing button. No earpiece connection but then never really chat when playing sf4.
I had to hack away some of the button support columns to fit the 360 pcb into the frame. And I used kynar wire for most of the wiring, except the power cabling. I used the battery compartment, but only one side of the compartment as 4 batteries are too much voltage and render the stick useless.
As for using the stick, the actual stick is āoff centreā and the buttons are a bit saggy. Slight lag and as I wired the guide button to the green button, I hit it occasionally with the side of my hand! Still, not bad. I have a hori wired and actually prefer the wireless stick to it. Might change the buttons to sanwa later, but its adequate. My wiring inside is a mess! I had to wire hard kick and punch to left and right bumper, couldnāt be arsed to wire resistors up to the pots, and removing the triggers completely let the pcb fit better.
I have the same stick but didnāt find anyone modding it until now. Thanks for this! Now I just need to figure out how to do this for my PS3ā¦
The only thing left to do i guess would be purely for aesthetics, which is using the last turbo button to enable/disable the LEDs (using the batteries in the battery compartment for power).
I donāt want to screw anything up though so I will leave it aloneā¦for now.
Bonus
I said in my last post that I may make the LEDs light up but didnāt want to screw it upā¦well I had no self control so I went ahead and did it. It took some head scratching (I didnāt have any >10ohm resistors on hand so I used 3 100ohm resistors in 3 rows of two LEDs each - thanks to this handy tool I didnāt have to attempt to remember my first semester circuit theory: http://ledcalculator.net/) There were resistors on the PCB that I had to cut to ensure the LEDs were completely isolated.
I also had to change around some buttons because I needed the switch, but didnāt want to accidentally hit the guide button while playing. The LEDs are being powered by 4 AA batteries in the battery slot, of course.
Anyways this stick is DONE. I said it last time but i mean it this time, I am NOT doing anything else to it and hopefully it doesnāt break on me
So as of this writing the buttons go as follows:
Select (Top yellow button): GUIDE
Start (Bottom yellow button): START
A, B, X, and Y are their equivalents on Xbox
L: LB
R: RB
Turbo 1 (Top green button): LT
Turbo 2 (Middle green button): RT
Turbo 3 (Lower green button): UNUSED
Turbo Off (Small round green button): BACK
4/8 way switch: Enable/Disable LEDs
thanks to all the guides on SRK that helped me complete this.
Haha, I had a similar experience! I too just got SFIV and wanted to play w/ a classic stick. Iām a huge Capcom fan, so I hunted down a couple JP Power Fighter Sticks (like 100yen each!).
I did consider taking the wireless route and utilizing the battery bay, but in the end I opted for a wired Madcatz retro stick PCB. The buttons can be replaced w/ 24mm snap-ins, but you must enlarge the original holes a bit (enough to get rid of the tubes, essentially).
Why? Thatās exactly what SNK did in the original Neo Geo sticks.
@ threi: Nice job on the hack, man!
@ col.guile: Awesome that you finally got the wireless setup working!
Iāve only done about half of what I want to do to this stick, but at least I can actually play games w/ it at this point :nunchuck:
Iāll be sure and post pics when mine is tricked out to my liking!
-ud
woah this thread got bumped lol
I wanted to dual mod it for TvC but there isnāt any space left in the stick.
oh well.
what I DO want to know is regarding the spring. The stick is a JLW, but the spring (at least in mine) looks nothing like a JLW at all. Can anyone confirm this by posting a pic of their spring?
If you do the 24mm button mod, you wonāt need the stock button supports underneath the PCB (seen on the right side of your photo, here).
Cut those 6 supports out and youāve got a nice area for another pad.
My Power Fighters are Japanese so they actually have a different stick than yours. That being said, I can post a pic if you like, but I doubt it will help you 'cause Iām pretty sure mine will be different :sad:
-ud
Mine is Japanese as well, so please do.
The extra parts in the top left are from a blog entry Iām still working on :karate:
-ud
The old Japanese ones had Sanwa JLW.
The US and new Japanese ones, like what you have, has basically an unbranded Seimitsu LS-40.
wow i didnāt know that even the US and newer JP ones had a quality stick as wellā¦$3 well spent
btw that is pretty much what the spring in my stick looks likeā¦weird.
I decided not to do this btw, because IIRC the button microswitches are pretty good, and although the buttons themselves arenāt arcade spec I can live with them.
I got around to finally taking pics of the spring to show what Iām talking about:
Yeah, I see no difference between the stock microswitches and what comes inside aftermarket stuff, but the button/sleeve setup is just terrible (at least on mine). Iām sure when they designed it they had cost savings in mind (integrated button housing vs shelling out for sanwa/seimitsu), and without doing lifetime testing, they probably have acceptably smooth action, but when they get worn out like mine were, they are real dogs (on par w/ worn out Neo Geo AES sticks).
Looking at the parts in your pics, the thing that caught my attention the most was the metal pivot bushing (sorry, donāt know the technical name), as mine is plastic. Seems like metal on plastic would provide much smoother action than plastic on plastic.
-ud
