I bought an 8bitdo M30 on Amazon during their lightning sale on Cyber Monday; just got it today.
It’s a nice controller. It’s a bit light, but so far it feels good in the hands. I honestly don’t really even know what I’d use it for at the moment, since most of the games I play I either use the Switch Pro Controller, or an arcade stick.
I do wish that the M30 had analog sticks, though (kind of like the SN30 Pro line); it would definitely encourage me to use it for other games as well.
I use mine wired with Brook adapters on a bunch of consoles. I also use via straight USB on my Pi4 and MiSTer. It’s a great pad.
Some don’t like the ratchety directional action of the D-pad, but I absolutely love it. Reminds me of the Genesis 6-button pad, which I’m in general more a fan of in comparison to the Saturn pad.
Use it for cellphone and emulator games.
Good controller, I like it too.
I think @c-sword put up CES/or something like that prototype pics of RetroBit/Sega Geneis and Saturn pads with analog sticks added to them, but I’m pretty sure they never made it to production.
You’re temping me to buy a Qanba Pearl again!
White plastic yellows. Yellowed white plastic looks like crap.
THERE, did that help?
…and scared now, so gonna push my Rivals TE2, BlazBlue TE, and VF5 RAP sticks further into the deepest darkest part of my closet 
xbox 360 bb stick i presume?
You betcha! Will it work on PS5 LOL?
My BB TE lives in its box in a dark closet as well.
Sadly it’s still yellowing 
The yellowing plastic theories are strange. Supposedly its caused by sunlight, but some youtubers have actually retrobrighted by leaving it exposed to intense sunlight, without the use of any chemicals.
Yeah, I’m not sure either. It’s a big topic of conversation in my other hobbies as well (Transformers collecting).
I’ve had luck with using hydrogen peroxide and a UV light about 2 years ago on some Dreamcast stuff that got yellowed, so I’m going to stick with that technique.
Before:
After:
Before:
After:
I used to brush peroxide gel on surfaces every 30 mins under direct sunlight. No matter how good things looked after, yellowing always returns.
Peroxide liquid submerging under sunlight works a bit better, but dunking with UV light in a reflective container is definitely where it’s at.
Saw this on an eBay seller’s listing for a refurb’d DC…pretty cool.
In all cases where surfaces have been REALLY yellow, retrobrite process leaves a blotchiness that when seen up close is kinda blehh.
I don’t care what ANYONE says about brominating processes in modern plastic, ANY white plastic (if up to spec, fire prevention-wise) is eventually gonna yellow like a mofo.
Its why I painted consoles in the past.
I ordered an Arcade1up MvC cab after hearing about online play. Apparently it’s Best Buy-only.
Thinking of shoehorning in a DC with DCDigital (for MvC2) and IL sticks/buttons. Anything I should be aware of that might be a barrier to that plan?
Looks cool! Some lite Google’ing shows that there are a lot of kits for converting a Arcade1Up cabinet to accept vga and hdmi inputs, not seeing any pass through stuff so that you can still use the existing games. More research required.
Still crossing my fingers that they’ll make an NFL Blitz/NBA Showtime cabinet for me.
Nothing I have heard of, but I suggest to take notes incase you need to work backwards at any point.
I’ll def dig in and post a log of my progress.
I am curious what Time Sleuth test has to say on the panel they use. I wish that thing was like 30 bucks cheaper…
I’m thinking that this might be my one (and only) cab. Candy in the garage idea crashed and burned, and I’m actually having issues trying to figure out where to squeeze this mini cab inside.
Earthquakes in CA suck. I wish I had a basement (and an attic)…
Convert the base into a keg, and then its a “kitchen appliance” that can be kept in the house??? 
…well she IS a beer fan.
That might just work 
