I was gonna suggest first checking out the DIY 3D-printed eBay HDMI adapters because they run the same ikorb code as the Insurrection Carby’s and E•O•N GCHD’s
https://www.ebay.com/itm/274020064052
…but a few months ago, when I was in the market, these were going for $40 - $50 from US Sellers, but couldn’t find anything below $60 and shipped from China today 
The original cables are hard to find and overpriced.
There some newer ones from Insurrection Industries are actually fairly priced and heavily sheilded.
The HDMI adapters are more so to be compatible with modern displays, since most Displays now are made without the analog inputs.
I got the Original Nintendo Cables (the Japanese D-terminal version with a RCA breakout adapter) and the Carby. I prefer the Carby.
I still got the Nintendo cables and I am thinking of selling them.
Right, that’s exactly my point.
Considering how well of a job the Carby does, and how much easier it is to have modern screens, I would think that the majority of people would prefer to get a Carby for HDMI output rather than component cables.
Decided to redo the art to my Happ-style “Saint-stick”; wasn’t crazy about the art in the end as it was poorly cut out clip art I found online. Plus, I generally prefer to have abstract and non-game/character specific art these days.
Was this:
Is now this. Has my hybrid button labels as well: Switch-style face-button labels (left/top/right/bottom button), Playstation-style trigger labels (R1/R2/L1/L2), and classic-style auxiliary button labels (Select/Start/Home).
I added two additional screws on the top edge to keep the plexi down (I had some issues with that section lifting up a bit in the past), but nothing else has changed yet. Going to remove the Neutrik NAUSB on it and put in a Switchcraft RJ-45 for retro console support sometime later on.
I don’t even use this stick much at all, but it’s nice to have a Happ-style alternative handy, just in case…
So here’s an update on the LS-32 I installed in the HRAP2.
The whole process went smoothly. The only thing that caught me a little off guard is that you have to take off the gate and microswitch assembly to screw the stick onto the mounting bracket in the HRAP2. If you don’t, you can’t properly reach the screws with a screwdriver, as those parts get in the way.
Removing the original JLF:
LS-32 with the SS mounting plate installed:
Installing in the HRAP2:
It’s a very tight fit between the HRAP2 mounting bracket / SS mounting plate and the nearest button (X button). In fact it’s so tight, a screw-in button wouldn’t fit as the mounting bracket would get in the way of the nut. Also, the X button nearly gets in the way of the 5-pin connector, as can be seen here:
The end result:
I’m glad I held off buying buttons for now, as the tight fit makes my options limited. Maybe PS-14-G snap-ins would be a good choice…? I also want to try out Sanwa RG buttons.
I can see the component cable use if:
A. You got a CRT and not a HD Flat screen Display
B. You are taking advantage of your current set up, Examples include you already got a good Component vid switcher or a scart switcher than does Component vid along with RGB, or going through an OSSC.
C. You got more Component inputs than HDMI
D. It happens to work with your Streaming Setup.
Screw in buttons have a slightly smaller diameter than Snap in buttons, as Snap in needs that friction fit.
MiSTer and PC Engine CD fans rejoice!
Now to put that Core Grafx I bought on eBay…
Same here with my RGB modded PC E Duo R.
Found that the power Led in my new HDMI switch is too bright.
No problem, just add a resistor inline with the LED
[Edit]
If you are wondering this is the HDMI switch I picked up
So far I have a Nintendo Switch, GameCube via Carby, a MiSTer, and a Later Model PS3.
With my old HDMI Switcher, the PS3 would cause issues, PS3 would light the connection up as active even when off, and remote starting my Switch will power up the PS3.
Now the LED for the port the PS3 is on still lights up, but starting up other consoles does not turn on my PS3. The ports have priority with In port one having the most priority, in my setup I have the Switch in Port 1, the Mister in port 2, the GC in port 3, and the PS3 in Port 4. It be bumped to Port 5 when I get my DC Digital board in and installed.
Anyone have any experience with Hyperkin’s Supaboy platforms?
Been toying with the idea of getting a Supaboy SFC (their newest version, after the Supaboy and Supaboy S), partially to play on, but mainly because it would be a great thing to keep on-hand when at shows/conventions (or even during meet-ups from Craigslist or FB Marketplace) to quickly test SNES/SFC games before buying them.
I know Hyperkin’s quality is… ok at best. But seems that the Supaboy is alright? Some reviews say that the d-pad is mushy, but that’d be ok overall if I’m not doing any “serious” gaming on it. Plus I find that it looks better than the Retro-Bit Retro-Duo-Portable.
Man, what I’d do for Analogue to release their take on the Supaboy concept. 
If you really want to play SNES/SFC carts on the go Sega Nomad style and have a easy way to field test carts before you buy, Sure Go for it.
And if you happen to enjoy playing on the thing, more power to you. And if not you can at least field test carts easily enough.
How good of a device it is? I do not know.
Been following the progress of My Arcade’s Super Retro Champ system, their Retro Champ that played FC and NES games was cheap crap, but hopefully they learn their lesson, and improve the Super.
Had a really bad last 24 hrs. Yesterday morning, our oldest dog passed away. He had been with the missus and I since the beginning. He was a trooper through all the house moves and stuff we did. We’ll miss him, and we’ll see him again one day. Then I slept for 15 hrs after a argument.
That’s interesting, and I hadn’t come across that! I’ve seen reviews of their NES one, and it seemed really cheap. But if this one is better, AND it supports Genesis/MD carts, that would be nice as well. One thing that the Supaboy has going for it is the ability to use actual SNES controllers (and I’m assuming 8Bitdo receivers as well that plug into the SNES port), but the Super Retro Champ does Genesis AND has HDMI out (vs composite-out only on the Supaboy).
But like I said, if Analogue were to make one… guaranteed purchase.
I know the Analogue Pocket has an SD slot and will eventually support SNES cores, but I want to use actual cartridges. 
If Analogue had a season pass for their stuff, I would subscribed twice.
Panel from Jasens came this morning. I need to pick a time to do the panel swap that isn’t part of the time this weekend we have to finish our repairs and painting.
Panel for which stick?
I had gotten a VLX replacement panel, VLX replacement aux panel, and VLX EZ-MOD replacement kit years ago from Jasen… and never installed them in my VLX. :\
But I’ve gotten to hang out with him on game/stick hunts the last 2 times I was in Tokyo, so that’s always been fun.
Korean panel for my RAP4.
