Well Retro Bit got that Sega License going on, so they are going to keep using that sega patented design. And as long as it makes money, Sega isn’t going to care.
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On an aside, how is the M30?
Been meaning to get one for my Switch, but kinda slacked off on the idea mainly because I don’t even know under what situation I’d use it in:
- For modern games (and I still mostly play Smash Ultimate), I have my official Pro Controller.
- For retro games or stuff in the SNES/NES Online library, I have my 8BitDo SN30 Pro.
- For fighting games (USF2, SF30th, BBTAG, UNICLR, DBFZ), I have my modded Exar Exaprize.
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The M30 is exactly how a modern synergy between a 6-button Genesis/Mega Drive pad and a Saturn pad would feel. It feels great in the hand.
One thing that always bothered me about the Saturn pad is that the stuff would rattle when you picked up (or shook) the controller. The M30 has MUCH better manufacturing tolerances as far as fit and finish are concerned. The shoulder buttons are also much better put together than on the Saturn pad.
The only thing about the M30 that might be a dealbreaker for some is the feel of the d-pad. It’s precise and has great range of motion. However, there’s an ever-so-slight ratcheting as you cycle through the directions. This is great because you get feedback on where you are on the Dpad at a given time. It may annoy some though who are used to free/fluid movement found in the Dpads found on the Genesis and Saturn pads. Nostalgic feedback aside, the M30 Dpad feels more modern (aka better).
I can’t wait to order some 2.4ghz versions for my MiSTer.
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I like the clicky feeling it gives, it gives me the impression that rubber dome contacts aren’t use and instead tac switches are used instead
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So much stuff coming in over the next week or two
Random project this week.
Was fishing for a used Hori Fighting Stick Mini in the Trading Outlet a few weeks ago, my bro’s little girl is starting to game with him, and his TE is waaay too big for her. Thought of sending him one of these so hopefully Dad and Daughter can work on their unblockables and infinites together LOL.
Didn’t get any bites in the TO, so I broke myself for a new one from Arcade Shock.
I found a site called DecalGirl.com makes skins for the Mini.
And…
I added a spare AWUK Classic Bat Top that I had (it’s about the diameter of a Seimitsu LB-30), so at least I can say I modded it 
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Look nice! Are the Decalgirl skins any good? Was thinking of getting white skins for my PS3&4.
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DecalGirl.com ones were easy enough to apply, resisted stretching/deforming, and were still pretty tacky when I had to lift them a few times to get bubbles out. The hardest part is that long retangle piece that runs across bottom, of the front, of the Mini. When making the Skin go on those corners, I needed a little hair dryer heat to soften them up enough to make them lay flat.
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Finally swapped out my Hayabusa buttons in my RAP4 for some OBSFE buttons. Other than a couple of tight spots where I had to push the tabs down with a small screwdriver, it went very smoothly. My stuff from wazwuz should be here next week, with the full Korean panel from Jasen’s arriving shortly after.
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I used Decal Girl before, great shop and they have really good Decals.
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While using the Sega Agetec HKT-7300 Arcade Stick (which at the time of writing is stock) with a Sega Branded VMU in a GD Emu equipped NTSC Dreamcast, I had intermittent unresponsiveness with the controller in the GD Menu and various games will freeze when I am using the Dreamcast with a Pico PSU Mod (most notably Triggerheart Exelica which will freeze and lock up entirely).
I switched back to the stock DC PSU (12-volt rail disabled of course for the GD Emu Drive) and I am getting none of those issues. Apparently, the Pico PSU is not supplying enough power on its 5-volt rail as DC controllers runs on 5 volts.
I do not remember the make or model of the Pico PSU as it was purchased long ago, nor do I have an oscilloscope to rigorously test the power supply’s output.
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Interesting experience, but that’s good to know.
I mean, if anyone’s keeping track, I keep the stock PSU (with 12V disabled) in my Dreamcast with a (knock-off) GDEMU, partially because I don’t see the need to change it, and partially because having it internal (as opposed to having an external AC-DC power brick) makes it slightly more “portable”. But it sounds like there have been other concerns about the supply of power from other PSUs as well recently.
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Oh here my recent stick Mod
Decide to get back the old Agetec HTK-7300
Nothing too special done, swapped out the old doodoo agetec parts for Seimitsu.
Keep the stock Start Button as it was still working.
Wiring is done quick and dirty, but I put a JST connector for the Start Button for possible later disassembly if needed.
Comparing the stock buttons with the Seimtsu Keikou Green buttons.
Forgot to mention theses Pro Tips, don’t dremel the holes wider, you will hurt your hands.
Use a Step Bit, its easier and quicker and your hands will thank you.
Also, the LS-32 will have it’s joystick shaft grind against the bottom panel, so with a dremel grind down the 8 raised circles on the top of the joystick’s main body, four of these circles are where the screws go to hold down the top panel.
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The Agetec HKT-7300 is on my arcade stick wishlist; one day I’ll own one. I remember seeing one for sale at a local gaming show a year or two back, but I wasn’t on the lookout for one then.
Although I’d have a hard time deciding what mods to do to it whenever I do end up getting one…
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Can you tell me what wires are A B C X Y Z?
as ive had 2 agetec pcb’s laying around for ages and ive finally decided one is going in to a hrap vx kai and one in to a round 2 TE.
Thx
Step drill bits are awesome. Full stop.
Pro Tip on HSS-0130. Lock Tabs only on the button cutouts so a nibbler is all that is needed.
Don’t torque the nibbler too hard, or you’ll spend hours obsessing on getting the panel flat again #truestory
In other news—
Wife and I fought badly a couple of weeks ago. Shit’s been pretty hard, but it’s gotten way better for us recently. I bought her a Wacom tablet. She wouldn’t tell me what she got me.
She’s definitely a keeper.
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SRKTT people are good people, evidenced by their patient wives\GFs Orz
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probably placing an order for some Component cables for my Gamecube next week. I’m gonna try to get a HDMI adapter for it, but I don’t think my wife is gonna go for it; otherwise I’m setting myself up to be force disturbed 
What’s the rationale of going for the GC Component cables vs getting an HDMI adapter like the Carby instead?
I’ve been meaning to get a Carby myself; the RAD2X that I use for my SNES/N64 works just fine on the GCN, but I’m only getting a converted Composite signal, so it’s on the blurry side, though still just-about-lagless. I’d rather have a Carby to translate the Component/RGB signal instead for the much-needed sharpness.