Put the panel on today, since I’m not working.
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Welp. Ordered a Supaboy SFC today.
Found a store selling one online in Toronto (I’m in Montreal, so it’s almost local) with free shipping, so shipping should be pretty fast and no risk of customs/duties.
What’s interesting is that their Supaboy SFC (3rd revision) was listed at $99CAD (about $71USD), whereas just about every other listing that I’ve seen in local classifieds for the previous model, the Supaboy S (second revision), were all at least at $150CAD (about $107USD).
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What’s the difference between it and say, a Super NT?
Super NT is an FPGA-based SNES replacement, you still need a TV to make it work.
The Supaboy is a “portable” SNES with a screen and everything. It’s a clone system, though, and not FPGA-based, and it’s made by Hyperkin, so quality is… ok, at best. But at least it plays from original cartridges as well. So it’s not like it’s a portable emulator machine that plays ROMs.
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Did some testing with the new setup, and I’m finding diagonals nearly impossible to hit with the hard Omron switches I got from wazwuz’s shop. May back it down to the default Gersungs I had in my Fanta and will probably call it a day there. Otherwise, everything was good; plus I do like that I can drop the Fanta in and out for maintenance and part swaps by removing the mounting screws that came with the new panel. For some strange reason, I didn’t get six screws/washers for the panel to fasten to the case; so I’ll probably have to get ahold of Jasen via email or socials.
https://twitter.com/misteraddons/status/1265071632382640131?s=21
Brook UFB and Wireless Board MiSTer test results are promising. 8Bitdo BT results are not (unsurprising). 2.4Ghz results from 8Bitdo AND Retrobit are all over the place though.
I plan on rocking my MiSTer pads/sticks wired 100%. Porkchop Express needs a Retro Board to finish up Brook board testing. Anyone willing to drop $50 and send one to him? I’m too lazy/poor.
Sometimes I look at old arcade stick threads and this one from 5 years ago on Giant Bomb looks similar to the Razer Panthera EVO.
Probably just a coincidence since the builder could’ve based his build off the Mad Catz SE with the slant. Still pretty interesting.
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I have found out that I can consistently hit EWGFs on P1 side in Tekken, P2 side you could say you’re gonna kill me and I can’t pull one off. And this is after going back to the default switches that came with the Fanta I have. The hard Omron ones I got from Wazwuz along with the 60A grommet was doing me absolutely no favors at all. It was super fucking hard to get diagonals to come out in both T7 and SCVI with the Omron’s installed. Also am using an oversized core for extra tension as well.
No offence
But personally i always approach with the attitude that the parts are fine and the fault lies in my own execution
i try to spend more time actively practising and not just going through the motions, be critical in every motion of the command
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Nah, you’re good. I don’t put a lot of time in like I used to. Running my business has pretty much taken all of my spare time 
So, apparently since we’re going to Texas Showdown still; wife wants a(n) arcade stick. Placing an big-ass fucking order with Jasen’s next week for her stuff, plus the beginnings of my Hitbox.
Anyone tried the Back-Button add-on module for the PS4 controller?
I’ve always wondered if it would cause any problems in the competitive scene.
Since you can assign d-pad inputs to the extra buttons, does the PS4 controller handle SOCD properly?
Finally got my Supaboy SFC today.
The good:
- The system itself feels pretty decently made, nice and solid and doesn’t feel like it’s going to fall apart.
- Carts are held in very nicely.
- A/V out and controller ports are nice.
The bad:
- Viewing angles for the stock screen are garbage; you have to look at it straight on from the front.
- Stock screen only displays video via composite signal, so it’s blurry, but it’s tolerable at that size.
- Video-out is only via composite signal as well.
- Button quality is kind of weird. Everything on the right side (face buttons and R-button) feel fine. Everything on the left side (dpad, L-button, Select+Start) feel mushy.
The possible mods:
- There are (rather pricey, all things considered) drop-in TFT replacement screens out there with much better viewing angles, but still take the composite signal (https://www.digikey.com/short/pnm2nf?fbclid=IwAR2HHtdVrm4immLX245GN2VY_JHYKnhzM3pt2rALMH15YKpvEaGrFxtRPe4). I’m curious to see if there’s a mod where you can replace it with an RGB-signal-based screen instead.
- There are tutorials for RGB and S-Video output (https://www.nightfallcrew.com/24/08/2017/hyperkin-supaboy-s-rgb-svideo-hack/)
- I might try to replace the button contacts with replacements that I have on-hand from other controller padhacks; maybe it’ll help reduce some of the mushiness.
Viewing angle is only good straight from the front, but on the stock screen it’s not totally horrible at that spot.
The use of the composite video signal kind of sucks, but it’s tolerable on a screen this size.
I also noticed that the face buttons are smaller than stock SNES/SFC controller buttons, so OEM buttons aren’t a drop-in replacement.
I feel that the L/R buttons are too low; they would be better off higher up on top on the unit.
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The Stock Sony gamepads don’t have SOCD filtering at all, in Street fighter you can hit SOCD using both the D-pad and left analog. The lack of SOCD filtering makes DDR pads and Pop n’ music controllers possible.
With the Back-Button add-on module you can hit SOCD even more easily now.
I’m also wondering if hitting Left on the d-pad and Right on the analog is handled differently than hitting both Left and Right on the d-pad (which is physically impossible). I’m kind of assuming that the Back-Button module uses the same signal as the actual d-pad, so this might be a different scenario as the dpad+analog issue. Maybe. I’ve never had to hack a stock PS4 PCB myself…
I mean, I get why the analog+dpad issue exists, though. Since the controller itself isn’t limited to just fighting games, I’m pretty sure if you were playing an FPS and you were strafing left (with the analog), but wanted to change weapons (with the dpad Right), you wouldn’t want your character to stop and stand still…
Holy fuck, my wife better love my ass after I just blew major dough on a Panzer Stick for her. She better not fucking complain about me not doing shit for a long ass fucking time.
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Does anyone know where to get decently priced repro Nintendo A/V Multi-Out ports for projects (I’m guessing most people use them for RGB NES mods).
The only place that I found them was one site that listed them for like $25US each, which I find is pricey for what it is.
The port on the console side?
I look into it and get back to you.
Saw this on ebay for 15
https://www.ebay.com/itm/312863825413
But yeah I do see what you mean, most people want $25 or more regardless if its a salvaged part or 3D print
The plug, try console 5
Yeah, the port is what I need.
I have a RAD2X cable and it’s great, and I want to try to adapt it for some other stuff. 