Good to hear the knockoffs work well. Deunan cursed those as the plague.
In other newsâŠ
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News from SEIMITSU, guys.
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current stock switch is now gold plated connector MM9-3, as there were complaints concerning the non plated parts which apparently were prone to corrode fast according to Seimitsu.
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LBM-30, the poorly turned 30mm diam solid steel balltop (previously mentioned some time ago) is said in Seimitsuâs own terms to be extremely heavy ( compared to its size) and they add that in some cases it âmay not be possible to return to neutral correctlyâ
Itâs well hidden in their catalog away from all the usual joystick parts⊠-
New MATTE textured button (alas only snap-on) PS-14-GS-MAT , I didnât see a release date though. Supposed to be available only in black to begin with, then later in other colors.
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Remember the PS-14-K in 1.25N or 1.50N forces (force is not measured for reaching actuation point but when reaching bottom out position) with incorporated additional springs to bridge the gap between US type button feel and japanese type? Thing is they were only snap-in type. Now Seimitsu will release PS-14-KN-1.25 and PS-14-KN-1.5 which are screw-in type!! (side note for those who didnât hear about the previous version, the extra springs are only 0.5N and 0.25N, while the Tokai switchâs own mechanism is rated at a very approximative 100gf max to reach bottom out)
Oh and some news from SANWA DENSHI too. Some select stores in Japan are supposed to carry JLM hall effect arcade joysticks for around 8000 yen / piece, along with its dedicated harness.
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I wonder what metal/ alloy they use.
I wonder whats the benefit of this.
From what I understood, its easier to measure out the bottom out force rather than the actuation force.
Then agian most arcade switches actuation and bottom out are they close to each other if not the same.
Funny story about buttons and actuation force:
I tend to use Seimitsus because I feel that Sanwas are too light; I tend to gently rest my fingertips on the plungers and I get too many accidental presses on Sanwas.
I went through a phase many years ago where I was collecting/modding Nerf guns, and ended up pulling out 6-8 relatively light springs out of them.
These springs fit beautifully around the microswitch between the plunger and the rim for buttons. I managed to put them into some Sanwas for a little bit, and it gave me tension closer to that of Seimitsu switches. Was pretty interesting.
I have no idea where I put those springs now (I took them out of the buttons); I should put them back into one of my sticks somewhereâŠ
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Going back to the USB-GDRom,
My Dreamcast as a whole been bricked for a while, so I canât confirm the firmware will eventually expire on the ODE. I dont know if itâs the USB-GDRom, Power Supply or is the mother board is bad on it. The controller board went out on it once before I had to replace it, wonder if that was a symptom of things to come.
I did order a new Dreamcast with a GDEMU included in it, 3D printed replacement parts included
I wonder if I need to have ISO files converted or is my current iso library sufficient.
Iâm not sure about the ISOs.
My brother and I have a HUGE (probably complete?) collection of burned Dreamcast games from back in the day⊠Was thinking of ripping them for my GDEMU. But it turned out to be easier/faster just to re-download the ISOs than ripping my existing burned discs.
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I might just have to so some homework on the topic.
*LBM-30 : seimitsu says zilch all about the alloy. just that itâs no plating (understand , not metal plated/coated plastic), but solid metal. You can unfortunaltely see some concentric grooves/lines from the machining process even on the promo pics (in other terms, shit finish) . They also say itâs a âlimited quantity itemâ.
*the matte PS-14 button: all they said was that it had an opaque matte appearance and texture, that the color scheme would be the same as for ps-14-gn (in due time). To be honest, the texturing looks really subtle. Nothing grainy.
- tokai switches : not really tactile but rather linear with a small shift in OF at OP, the tokai MM9-3 are effectively hard to measure until actuation point, but itâs rated to reach actuation point around 40~45gf using empirical methods. Nothing really new. Deskthority confirms it ramps up fast just past that actuation point and reaches a very vaguely estimated 100±30gf at bottom out ( aka force to reach full stroke). Unusual feel for some, but many like it including meâŠ
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Bezel for the Madcatz TE2/TE2+ in a single piece. In PETG this is hella strong.
I need to make the side panel now.
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Speaking of the TE2, I found a clone on Alibaba.
It resembles the Killer Instinct version (even has the LED panel). Took out the bezel, put USB type c, and has one of those universal board PCBs that the Mayflash F500 uses.
Yup, pretty sure the top is a laminate carboard glued on the top: there is no screw to old the top like the bezel is supposed to do (see the pic when the lid is opened)
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There has GOT to be a way to put specific other users on block/ignore/mute here on the boards.
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I donât think that feature has been enabled by the admin : /
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I find that wackoâs comments/threads entertaining (when theyâre less than 19 paragraphs of courseâwhich is rare).
Else I just look at the name and scroll (for a while) to the next post.
P.S. not responding to him goes a long way on the block/ignore/mute frontâŠ
[EDIT] Forget what I said before. That guy is annoying AF. Block time!
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$1299.99 + ShippingâŠ
This guy nuts or what?
For 1299.99 I can buy a whole arcade cab in reasonably good condition.
maybe he wanted $129.99 and had a typo?
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