I’ve been trying really hard to like the JLW with the round restrictor gate, but i’m finding it really hard to hit DB to block consistently. Anyone else with this problem? on the bright side, I really love the feel of the JLW overall and its whisper quiet!!
Not that I know of. I’ve followed a few of these converters, and not a single one has passed or been through thorough testing. And there are some out there yet to be tested.
If you have a 360 stick the mod simply requires an under $50 chimp and some modding skills. I know many will immediately recommend this over converters, but being there is no “Go to” converter for new-gen consoles as of yet, that is your best option.
So I just got like 8 PS1 pads from a craigslist deal.
Unfortunately, all of them are digital only pads.
But at least one is a Hori six button pad!
No idea what I’m going to do with them. Would it even be worth it hacking and then selling them?
I also got some cord extenders that might be useful for MC Cthulu boards.
I also got one of those Hori Fighting Stick PS(pictured here: Hori Fighting Stick PS by Hori )
Surprisingly, the joystick feels very nice. Clicky yet not loose like other generic Hori sticks.
The buttons are trash though. Just plain mushy. But luckily it looks very easy to mod thanks to the fact that the current buttons are snap-ins.
Just scrape off the black stuff on the pcb and solder wires to it.
Has anybody figured out a way to get flush screws onto a TE top panel? I personally don’t like the hex nuts on the TE top panel, as they stick up too high and rub my wrists (I deal with of course).
I have tried some flat head screws, but they do not go all the way down because of the angle of the top head. Do I have to dremel the screw holes slightly on the panel? Or is there a screw out there that does the job already?
I finally see why Markman loves the Namco stick so much. I just got one, and it’s almost like a Seimitsu stick (the buttons are almost Seimitsu-like, too). I wonder why Hori never kept making stuff like this… I wouldn’t even mod this stick.
Want to know why the Buttons are like Seimitsu?
The Casing is in the style of Seimitsu PS-14-G.
The Microswitches used are from TKC.
Seimitsu uses TKC for all Buttons.
The Joystick though, it is just a regular Hori.
All the parts are the same as now.
Even the Microswitches.
People say feel different.
Could be old Spring though, or just maybe is different.
Could be just that the lubricant is wearing out or something.
Have a custom acrylic top cut screw holes drilled for making flatheads flush.
On second glance, the stick does kind of remind me of the one in the Fighting Stick Wii, but maybe it’s the buttons – I feel a little more at home with this one (I use Seimitsu on X360 and PS3 mainly). I also picked up a Agetec Dreamcast stick recently. Never had one (I used an Innovation converter and Saturn pads) until now. This was pretty dang cool. Not Namco stick epic but definitely pretty cool. I learned how to do 720s in non-SFIV games on that thing. Anyone else that has one notice how weird the gate feels compared to say, a Sanwa or a Seimitsu?
Possible Ghetto Stick case?
I was in a Walmart and saw this $30 card game that came in a box that had some nice finger joints and a slide top case. I am thinking that this might be a contender for a compact ghetto stick case if turned upside down. If I recall correctly it is maybe a little smaller in foot print than a piece of paper, maybe 7x10. I did not buy. I don’t need to make another stick. I already have a small, medium, large and x-large arcade sticks.
“The Game of Things”
bencao74 does that.
You would cut a [90-degree] coutersink for the head to sit in.
The problem is going to be that the height of the head is half the diameter of the screw. So for a M4 screw (i.e. 4-mm diameter) that’s 2 mm = 0.0787 inches. I know that Art uses 1/16" = 0.0625" plexi for his replacement panels, so even if you countersunk the screw the head is taller than the plexi and it still wouldn’t sit flush. Now there exist undercut flat head screws that have a 30% shorter head (so 0.0551" for the M4) which could work, but I have no idea where you could buy them.
Thanks for the info guys, I appreciate it. I’ll try to hit up bencao74.
well from working with acrylic at school we used to just get a drill bit and put it in the hole and turn it a couple of times by hand and it would chamfer (i think its chamfer? good enough) the edge down enough so the screw would go all the way down, takes a couple of seconds?
Hmm, I have some spare parts. I’ll be sure to check that out.
But you need a mini stick! LS-33 and 24mm buttons! Just one more, it can’t hurt. Heh, no, good move on not getting it.
I wonder how good “The game of things” is? For a case, though, that warrants $30. So it’s like free four player game? But why play that when you can play cooler games on the cases of them? Like TMNT?
I kind of like the idea to slide off the what-would-be bottom panel to open for service.
wow i just noticed i have something i could mod into a really thin stick…but might not be enough room in it but…would be able to check once i get my SE stick
Yeahp, I maed ones. I got that covered. It resides in the trunk of my car.
http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww301/rtdzign/MiniStick/th_DSC03838.jpg
Haha, well, then, I can’t justify the stick at all. You keep it in the trunk so you never are caught off guard for a fight, right? Heh.
You never have to justify a stick.
Best quotable phrase I’ve heard in a while. Thank you.