a 10k resistor between the outer and inner pins.
Color me confused, as usual:
Iâm going from where to where?
a 10k resistor between pin1/pin2 and pin2/pin3 for both axis and for both sticks = 8 resistors.
Arenât the pots 10k total? Wouldnât 5kish resistors be closer to original?
And in a pinch, use one pair of resistors in place of one of the pots, then just run a wire to connect the pin 2 where the resistors are to the other three pin 2âs. 2 resistors, three length of wire.
So, what kind of designs should I do with an LED controller?
- Basic on-off, just like with the inverters
- Sparkle, where the light comes fully on when pressed and slowly fades out while held
- Pulse, where it fades in when pressed/held, and fades out when released.
What else could be done? Make a game of âlights outâ, where pressing a button toggles the lights on the neighbor buttons? A Cylon mode where it circles around regardless of button press? Iâve got a massive amount of code space still available, I just donât know what I want to do with itâŚ
Cyclon sounds cool. Perhaps if nothing is pressed it goes to cyclon mode, and then when you press a button it will interrupt it and do the on off.
Another idea if you want could be a water drop affect where you press a button and it lights up and fades out and then the light wave ripple passes to the other 6 or 8 buttons.
lol lights out would be cool.
Could you make the inverse for all the led effects? Say for the basic on-off effect, instead of press to lite up it stays lit up and you have to press it to turn it off? For the sparkle, light is already on, turns off fully when pressed and slowly fades on when held. For Pulse, it fads off when pressed/held and then fades on when released.
If using an RGB led, any way to do a rainbow effect of the color while held down? Or a random color each time the button is pressed?
Could a led ripple effect be possible? When one button is pressed it does the pulse effect and then the neighboring buttons do the same pulse effect and then its neighbors, ect. Could make it so the longer the button is held down the bigger the ripple.
wow you beat me to the punch.
yeah thats around where i did it, wasnt feeling any tighter so i slipped the jlf spring over it and kinda like it and it isnt as tight as some HAPP sticks ive used
Got the second one off. Wonât be doing that again. Now to go get the resistors. Thought I had some here, but theyâre 100k
After one year looking at Japan auction just to get one main rare stick, i finally was able to get it today and couldnt be Happier Fcuker lol.
Pics of my badss Rare stick of course MarkMan has one too and way before me too.
Congrats meus! That is definitely badass. How much did it set you back?
So how much more do you need to catch up to Mark?
Thanks Kyle! For how much, im looking round 145 shipped to base Japan.
Dont need to, With me buying and sell i already catch up with MarkMan. Japan Auction alone from last year until now, i have won 100 items, all sticks.
As for total i sold from last year till now 110 sticks
Thats all i have sold and maybe more that may not remeber lol. As for my collection right now at home would say 80 sticks with customs too.
But Again MarkMan right now is still the king of much own sticks and im second in line.
Also Right now i got 20 sticks on Japan base that needs to be shipped.
Iâm trying to get my LEDs to run on battery power while wireless and switch to USB power if itâs plugged in. I want to do this with a PNP transistor, except I still canât wrap my brain around it. The voltage of the battery is roughly 4.2V and USB is obviously 5V. It seems like it should be so simple to do, but I still donât fully understand transistors and I donât want to fry anything.
I donât see the point in doing this. Just leave it running off the battery.
Well the thing is, the batteryâs actually only 2.4V but I built a small charge pump using a MAX1044 and some capacitors and diodes. The diodes I used werenât Schottky diodes, so the voltage wasnât multiplied as much as I expected (~4.8V) but it seemed effective enough to drive the blue LEDs. Although I was correct (the blues did light up), they got slightly dimmer when more buttons were pressed (light-on-activation, btw), and none of the blues would light up when the 6 reds were active (for rumble). That doesnât concern me all that much for wireless play, as Iâve definitely succeeded at getting the blues to work with my battery at least, but Iâd love to have the option of plugging in to USB to get the full effect. Unless it would be better to just add another section of capacitors/diodes to my charge pump and see what voltage I can getâŚ?
oh shitâŚmy wife just told me sheâs pregnant.
âA NEW CHALLENGER ENTERS THE RING!â just popped in my head. HA!
Two stickly men: Horiâs arcade stick guy and @MadCatzIncâs arcade stick guy - http://bit.ly/bJp6LN
Finished desoldering the necessary stuff off the 360 pad. Much easier than the sixaxis, let me tell you. Must have used softer solder, because I had everything off in under 10 minutes, including the analog sticks. I take it I need 10k resistors wired up the same as the ps3 analog sticks, right?
Also, would 30 gauge wire work with .110 QDs? Or would I need to solder them to the QDs (or use thicker gauge wire)?