Mine should be here this week, so I’ll be commissioning you soon. I believe mine was the centered viewlix layout so I could go with the Blazblue template. I’ll know for sure once it gets here.
Putting up a site soon. I’ll be posting my stuff there when it’s done.
I think this is the place to ask this question. I’m currently using this PCB in a stick
however, it seems the PCB is not registering inputs properly even though the switches are brand new in the stick. Does anyone have any knowledge about this pcb and what could possibly be the problem?
I’ve sat in ssf4 with input display on and when I hit dwn+lk+lp, it will not register them properly every time. It always forgets the lk or lp sooner or later.
halp!!!
it’s funny how paid commissions regarding licensed characters immediately gets shut down in trading outlet, but roams free here
not hating
it’s just funny.
Maybe he doesn’t know.
And no one sees it here.
haha yeah…it’s whatever , i don’t hate on the hustle!
was there a proper template ever for NHTRAN sticks?
When I looked through the thread there’s only a *.png one and its 72dpi and wrong sizing completely.
Two technical questions for anybody that knows. Is there possibly a thirs model of the wireless 360 pad? I pulled the PCB out of one yesterday that doesn’t quite look like either of teh diagrams on slagcoin’s site. It looks closer to the late model stick, but the pads for the joystick directions look funky and some of the chips and diodes aren’t in exactly the same space. I don’t want to waste my time hacking this thing if it’s not common ground or won’t work. I’ll take some pictures tonight.
Second, how difficult is it to desolder the analog sticks off a ps3 pad? I’m working with limited space inside this case for what I’m trying to doand it would help if I could mount that pcb flush upside down (well, relatively flush anyway)
This?
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=693579
That is the third version of Wireless.
Yup, that would be it. Looks like it’s still common ground, so I can wire it up just the same. It did worry me for a bit when I saw it though!
Now to figure out if it’s worth desoldering the PS3 analog sticks…
You’ll want a solder sucker to clean out the holes. If the tabs are bent AND soldered it can be a pain cause you have to use the iron as both an iron and a pry bar to bend the tab up straight. Otherwise just clean out the holes, make sure the tabs are straight, and pull them out.
For anyone who’s a fan of Sega arcade control panels/cabs and is thinking of ordering a case from Voltech, I just recently ported my Sega CP lookalikes to his VAS-HG so you can ask him for it when you order.
I’m a complete spoon when it comes to printing art. I spent ages creating some, set the page size to my exact measurements and all, yet when it comes to actually printing, no matter what options I chose (no borders etc) it always comes out funky! too small usually. I do not get on with printers.
So I’ve been to arcades back in the day occasionally, but not too often. I mostly played at home.
I got the TE and fell in love with the Japanese parts, but then when I went to an arcade downtown and felt some American parts, I found I like the feel of American joysticks more than the JLF.
Since an IL wouldn’t be able to fit inside my TE, I’m thinking of buying a JLW with a bat-top. I’m pretty excited about that idea.
I like the Sanwa buttons though. I haven’t had a problem with those. To me, they don’t feel much different than American parts, and I can rest my fingers on them easily.
Speaking of which, I just remembered I was going to mod the art on it too. I’ve got a template, but I wanna get it in Art’s plexi-cover, and this one wasn’t made in Art’s template.
how much is 2/3rds i should cut off the LS-55 spring to make it tighter in the jlf? i dont wanna cut too much off.
Its common ground.
As of the ps3 analog sticks its a pain in the ass to desolder. Probably easier to juts dremel them off and then neutralize them with 10k resistors.
If you haven’t figured it out yet spencer, the dremel solves everything 
Random thought…will Sanwa ever make all black OBSNs…
Hmm, I wonder now if it will be possible to make a stick for the 3DS, what with at least two fighting games on the system (SSFIV and possibly DOA).
Putting a DS in a stick wasn’t that difficult so I don’t see why the 3DS would be any more difficult.
Uh, I think I clipped mine at the middle of the third ring, counting from the bottom.
Yeah Matt, the dremel is your friend, in so many instances! I did manage to desolder one of them, after about 2 1/2 hours. Even with the iron, desoldering too, desoldering braid, and flux it was a pain in the ass melting the solder. BUt I got one down, may as well get the other one. Once they’re off, do I still need to solder up a resistor? If so, where?