I’m pretty sure they don’t make that model jlf anymore.
The model that originally comes with microswitches alone is the JLW. You can take any JLF, remove the microswitch board, and put in four microswitches directly to get what you’re asking for.
And dropped the price to match. I don’t see how that’s skimming, but I may be biased since I have an ungodly number of balltops in my parts box.
JLF-TM-8 is the JLF without PCB.
Sanwa does not have it in their Catalog anymore.
But you can find them in HRAP EX and HRAP EX SA.
Also cool is that Lizard Lick now sells JLF-TM-8.
But Chad of Lizard Lick uses MS-O-3, which are OMRON V-10-1A4.
azbil (micro) Yamatake V-5210E (Sanwa MS-Y-3) were the original used in JLF-TM-8 by Sanwa.
Now the JLF-TM-8 in HRAP EX and HRAP EX SA are OMRON V-10-1A5 (Sanwa MS-O-3R).
V-10-1A4 has Operating Force of 100 gf.
V-10-1A5 has Operating Force of 200 gf.
Both MS-O-3 and MS-O-3R are used in Illuminated Buttons from Sanwa.
You’re right I guess I just need 4 Omron switches then. Thanks!
I just noticed they did drop the price to reflect the change.
Thanks for the info!
Is there anywhere that just sells either of these microwitches?
V-10-1A4 has Operating Force of 100 gf.
V-10-1A5 has Operating Force of 200 gf.
AkihabaraShop.jp used to sell the original MS-Y-3.
Now sell only the MS-O-3 and MS-O-3R.
(Sanwa removed MS-Y-3 from Catalog).
MS-O-3 in Illuminated section.
MS-O-3R in Joystick section.
Hmm, I wonder why the change from 100gf to 200gf?
Can you re-quote my Post to catch my Edit?
Laugh.
Sanwa didn’t change from using 100 gf to 200 gf.
Both are still used now.
From what I see, the 200 gf Microswitches are in the bigger sized Illuminated Buttons.
That’s all I see, I don’t know what else would be.
Laugh.
so after a fruitless looking in electronic stores and shops for springs close to whats stock in the jlf anywhere i went to my old jobs place and found some fuel filter springs that tho slightly bigger in width with a clipping fit perfect right over the original spring and made the stick less loose. im testing it out on my back up TE so lets hope it doesnt suck.
Man, I think I need to sell some sticks…but they’re pretty jury-rigged and I’d be afraid of someone getting it and then not being able to fix it should a problem arise…let’s see:
Custom 360 stick (QCFgaming case, LS-56, and PS-14-G): Ran out of QD’s, wrapped the ends of the wires around the switch contacts, works just fine though.
Modded PS3 SE (LS-56 and PS-14-KN): Fine for the most part, but I never could get my artwork to stick even with spray glue, wound up using clear packing tape to hold the front end down. Also have it LED modded, though one button is a bit sporadic in lighting up at times.
Modded PS1 Blaze Twin Stick: Bought this on a whim, modded it with Seimitsu LS-33s and Sanwa buttons. Vinyl dyed the whole thing, then left it in my car while I was at work for a tournament that evening. The heat wound up warping the factory overlay I had painted over, so I wound up removing it, so now it has open VMU holes and the edge is uneven with the main surface…also have some nuts laid over the screw holes in order to give the sticks clearance since I don’t have a drill handy, which of course creates a bit of a gap between the metal plate and the bottom of the plastic. Oh, and I used the default PCBs in the stick, which seem sporadic themselves. Works fine with my converters, but seems to act oddly with certain PS2 games. KoFXI works fine, but in Melty blood, every directional hits twice, and in third strike, I have to mash a bunch of buttons in order for it to do anything in game…I wanna replace with Cthulhu’s eventually if I keep it. Also no QDs used here, lol.
Seriously, if anyone here is interested in these, PM or something, I need $ and these are sitting doing basically nothing. Figure I’d ask here since this crowd might be a bit more apt to fix things up or know what to look for should something go wrong. I can send or post pics or whatever.
I haven’t had Kinkos print a piece of artwork in a year, but now that I’m looking at the website, I can’t select cardstock. Does anyone have a new recommendation? I recall selecting cardstock a year ago. I’m using a PDF, and all I can select are Standard and Resume/Executive for Paper Category. Thanks.
Where did you use to work?
I found a funny looking spring (the helix was wider on one side than the other) and it fits into just about every Japanese joystick I own (JLF, LS-32/40) just fine and is notably looser than the llf spring (and obviously the others).
Feel free to label me a noob, but is there no guide out there for creating a custom stick with a Cthulhu? I see tons of guides for adding them to other sticks, but none for making a stick from scratch with it. Maybe I’m just that dense.
Has anybody had any experience with printing art from hobby lobby rather than kinkos.
I mentioned a couple weeks ago about posting something crazy/stupid/awesome and here it is: http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=234472
Hmm…Looking to buy a budget fighting stick (And replace buttons, of course)
Should I get the Hori FS3 or the Madcatz SE? They’re both around the same pirce
The SE is a LOT easier to swap out parts in.
i used to work for a place called car quest like 2-3 years ago. they didnt have a huge selection so im gonna have to look at another place. see if they have some other springs. i know they do i remember seeing a few when i worked there.
When pondering my options for a pre-fab arcade box that can house Happ parts at an affordable cost, my mind continually drifts back to the Messiah NEX wireless arcade stick.
http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/8103/41yowp5sfrlss400.jpg
The thing is about the right size for what I’d want. The only catch is, I’d have to cut a new plexiglass cover, route out where the buttons are, and then mount the new buttons to the plexi. It looks like there’d be plenty of surface space to fit in 6 buttons in the Astro City layout though. If I was really bent on getting one I could have it for $40, but the question is, is $40 a reasonable cost for a pre-fab arcade case? I’m leaning towards it over building another custom case (since my tools aren’t the greatest ATM), but I want more opinions.