Gah, stop destroying classic controllers! An SNES pad can be recreated for like $1 in parts from digikey and an extension cord. Ditto for NES, Geny, Saturn, pretty much anything pre-PSX are all stupid simple and easy to perfectly duplicate with cheap parts.
Makes me sad when I see classic controllers unnecessarily sacrificed to the pad hack gods.
Sorry Toodles. This is also my story. I buy controllers at Goodwill for $2. I canāt even get an extension cord for that online. If it makes you feel any better I used it to hook up my SNES to my cab. It hasnāt seen action in a while.
Goodwill ftw. i have bought many controllers from there (keeping the ones in good condition intact of course!) they sell some pretty beat up controllers too. so in a way i feel like iām resurrecting them, lol
So the new HRAP has the eight play buttons and start using great QDs on them just like the VLX. The other end though is SOLDERED directly to the board, with hot glue all around it. Yuck.
So I need ideas. What can I use to tap those 9 signals, solderlessly? I could use like splice taps, but thatād be 9 of them, and just wouldnāt look that great but I canāt think of anything else.
Anyone have any brillient ideas of ways of solderlessly and easily tapping into 9 different 24 gauge wires?
so after I finish my tournament gootechs used my stick for a money match against killacam and then I found out out the round 2 I bought for the xbox had a faulty down right
Congratulations, you sir are the 274,266th person to realize you need that tool to fix an Xbox 360.
You have the choice of prizes between a broken Popsicle stick, duct tape that has been peeled off a duct, or a scratched lotto ticket that has not a single winning number.
I have a t10 and up. I read the instructions beforehand but forgot to pick one up while I was out, thinking it was a t10 that was needed. I usually circumvent torx requirements with a flat head + pliars for torque, but the ones on the heatsink are a bit too tight for me to do that. Oh well, iāll just pick one up tomorrow at lunchtime.
You could use a tab terminal strip like what the TE uses. Or you could use a screw terminal strip, cut the signal wires short enough to feed them into the strip, then reuse the same signal wires with QD on a second set of screw terminal strip.
oh btw toodles, Iām going to use one of your led controller boards in a puzzle fighter cab I have in a bar. Iāll be sure to post a video of it in action.
Pretty much exactly why Iām moving from the big 5mm pitch screw terminals to 3.5mm screw terminals. IIRC I think theyāre rated for something like 22-30 AWG, maybe 22-28.
5mm pitch is definitely not the move. When I did my first stick with the axisadapter I has 24 gauge solid core (my first time out, didnāt know any better), and the terminals were ok. Dropping down to the stranded 28 gauge itās a PITA to get those terminals to bite. Probably would have been beter just to solder but Iād have to redo most of the wiring, and Iām not up to that.
And youāre pretty much locked in on the boards thereā¦
Where did you happen to find a guide, btw? My local game shop has been buying various broken Xbox 360s for $10 in store credit. The manager wants to have a total wall of broken PS3s and 360 shells. But heāll sell them for mad cheap, I can even pick the least broken of them. Might give it a shot at fixing one. Worth a try. Even if it doesnāt work. Can always turn the shell into a stick.