and a video!
[media=youtube]cg9dd7BpCMY[/media]
I love how they light up the rim perfectly… Makes me jealous… =(
Outstanding! You might need to consider putting a thicker backing onto the button graphics so that the outline of the plunger doesn’t show through in the dark… LOL
purplearms, do you have the specification for LED?
Hey 32teeth:
looks great. you used my recommendation of wiring for your on button press led mod? Perhaps you could put together a new schematic.
don’t use that hex inverter nonsense as proposed in other threads. According to datasheet one inverter pin can handle 16mA. Use a led driver or something similar (transistor) if you want to drive bigger current. In this case only color is driven this is possbile without led driver for sure.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]53642[/ATTACH]
Saw that your leds lights up in blue. Here you soldered only the red led resistor. In your Vid blue is acitvated. Means that you soldered no resistors for the blue leds? This reduces the lift length for this little friends…
thats because the LED was turned upside down to change from common anode to common ground… so the position of red and blue on the board are reversed…
purplearms is correct, working in common ground (LED turned 180) everything labeled B now = R and vice versa
also, here is your updated diagram for the cthulhu implementation
http://www.fakesite.com/UPLOADS/arceye-cthulhu.png
@32teeth: I had a similar idea of putting a graphic overlay on the button that can only be seen when the button is pressed/LEDs activated.
I’m glad to see it worked.
I’m thinking of doing a mod where the each button’s LED light intensity is higher than the one before it. In other words LP is lowest brightness, MP is brighter than LP, and HP is brighter yet. If 8 buttons are used the last ones are the brightest of all, signifying all three buttons combined.
I may use resistors, or even perhaps re-purpose the turbo board and switches on the TE, SE, or Hori stick to make each buttons brightness switchable on the fly.
G’s and gents, Arc-Eye prototypes are now sold out!!
FAQ has also been moved to the first post. The short story is that there will still be new version of arc-eye but it will only be available to:
- custom joystick customers of Gummowned
- custom joystick customers of Bencao74
- DIY kit from me. See first post for price and ordering instructions.
Those who bought into the prototype will get special considerations with my other mods / prototypes =D
ETA is TBD… onto the next mod which I will begin posting about soon…
resistors!!!
Ah, what a week for payroll to screw up our checks! We were supposed to have them yesterday morning, but they screwed up and we should be getting them today. Ah well, not a huge deal. I can wait for the next batch (and see what that controller boars is about…) Just gives me more time to do some planning
Ill sell them for european and asia customers as kit, too. Please ask for solder service. Hopefully next batch is coming soon. Ive measured those PS14K buttons. Perhaps purplearms is able to adapt the pcb that those buttons fit.
I just completed design to fit PS14K buttons =)
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/Arc-Eye2-1.jpg
is it possible to add two more pins for GND. Since youre using no common stuff the design is more flexible. But this is only an enhancement and no show stopper for a possible led controller or something... This PCB is common cathode out of the box. If the led are swapped weve common anode.
Ooh la la. :lovin:
bencao74, what did you measure for inside of PS-14-K?
I am measure 19.50mm like?
For the Snap-in Tab part.
Its possible, but do you need all the colors to be on completely separate circuits? With LEDs notch facing up and right, we have one anode, 3 grounds (one for each color). With LED notch facing down and left, we have one ground and 3 anodes (one for each color).
The new arc-eye design is now 19mm wide from flat edge to flat edge 
Cool.
We got the same numbers.
