Ok starting to get ready to put in an order to manufacture! ETA 2 months.
Price of final production version has dropped due to order volume discount and first post will now contain the latest status. Prototype customers will always receive special considerations from me.
So it would only be $24 + $5 shipping for 8 boards with everything included that needs to be soldered? If so, I will probably be one of your first customers, because they make the rims of the buttons look amazing.
That is correct sir! Everything except the wire that is… I’m just finalizing design of “MeisterSchalter” to have them manufactured at the same time as arc-eye.
Indeed!! Definitly going to pick up a production run set. Really excited and it’s really set the bar for led mods!
Ok I just finished negotiating with the LED supplier and because i’m getting a good discount, i’m dropping price by another quarter. The final price is now $2.75 per board +$5 flat for shipping…
Man! Those are so cool. I need to work my soldering skills before I even consider it, though.
You’ll be ok… i totally suck and i have a soldering iron thats older than I am and i’m able to do it… i think the secret is the use of flux!
you can read my poston soldering the arc-eye
Step 1 Place a small amount of solder on one of the two pads. Aprox. 0.5mm in height.
http://www.infidigm.net/articles/solder/m1ex1a.jpg
Step 2 Grab the 805 part with very fine tweezers. Bring the part overtop of the pads, slight to one side so that the part can sit flat against the PCB. Heat the pad already with solder and slide the part onto the pad so that it is centered between the pads. Remove heat.
http://www.infidigm.net/articles/solder/m1ex1b.jpg
Step 3 Put a small force down on the part and re-heat the one pad to guarantee that the parts is flat against the PCB.
http://www.infidigm.net/articles/solder/m1ex1c.jpg
Step 4 Solder the other side of the part.
this may sound crazy, but would there be any way to have LEDs by the joystick that light up left, right, up, down, when you press that direction? That’d be sick!
There is already a way shown in the LED Activation Thread.
http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=149015
And the upcoming MeisterSchalter by purplearms and bencao74 will control that too.
@JDM714 this is the second time in this thread that you’ve forced me to reveal a little early… LOL
MeisterSchalter (German for Master Switch) will just give you a switchless option to switch between 4 different sets of power (for LEDs or whatever you want to power), switch USB and PCB power between 360 and PS3 (if you have a dual wireless setup using Gummowned’s LEO like my gouken stick does)… like an IMP board on steroids if you will…
LED activation can be done if you have common ground setup like cthulu or dualstrike(check out 32teeth’s post a little earlier in this thread… his example shows button press lightup on cthulu and arc-eye, but the same principal can be applied to joystick too)…
I think Bencao74 may abandon his LED controller mod :’(
Laugh.
I’ll stop typing. :sad:
Lol… i’m just busting your balls… i appreciate your enthusiasm 
purplearms, I can say for sure that the Arc-Eye will NOT fit into 24mm Buttons.
Prototype or Revision.
Laugh.
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/e3c2d6b4.jpg
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/e6b8fef1.jpg
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/63926198.jpg
So you can Edit your Post.
Thanks for checking. I was pretty sure they wouldn’t… lol…
$22 is even better!
Also I just came up with a neat idea, and I am almost positive that it would work fine, but I just want to pass it along to the electronics experts here.
Would it be possible to have one set of LEDs ( let’s say blue) activate-on-press per button, and another set (let’s say red) activate all of their button LEDs when the rumble goes off? For the activate-on-press section, that would just be a matter of linking all of the blue LED VCCs to USB voltage and the ground on the Arc-Eye to each of the button signals, as seen in this post. I assume, though, that the Arc-Eye’s ground soldering point is linked to all of the cathodes on the SMD LEDs, right? So for the rumble-activated lights, the red LED VCCs would be connected to the rumble voltage points on the PCB(s), but either the cathodes for the red LEDs wouldn’t be soldered to the Arc-Eye or the trace leading the cathodes to the ground on the Arc-Eye would have to be cut. After that, all of the red LED cathodes would be daisy-chained to the USB’s ground, right? That way, the rumble LEDs (red) would still activate even when the buttons aren’t pressed, but both the rumble LEDs and the activate-on-press LEDs (blue) would still work when they are.
Is my logic sound? The only complications I can see with this idea so far are:
1.) Not having enough space inside the plunger for the extra two wires (four in total), though I don’t see that being too hard to tackle
2.)Not having enough amperage for 32 LEDs via USB (not to mention, I want to do this on a 360/PS3 dual-mod setup, though it seems to have worked well enough for purplearms…)
If this is possible, then it greatly increases the likelihood of a purchase, in my opinion
You can have a common anode or common cathode, depending on the orientation of the LED…
Very interesting idea. But there are two sets of rumble motors if you are doing dual pcb? I *think *if you use the arc-eye as common anode, you can still hook it up like 32teeth did. Blue ground would go to the button signal, then you have red ground which can be powered independently of blue.
So then the next question is what is the voltage / current supplied to the rumble motor. Since it rumbles at different speed, i would guess that voltage will increase/decrease. That could be tricky if that were the case… You might be able to use an optoisolator to detect the rumble activation, and connect the red LED to ground…
purplearms, how to make the Custom Plungers?
I know you did by mold, from what I seen?
But that’s all.
Because since your Prototype is for PS-14-KN, I cannot use for PS-14-K.
I was kind of wanting to try making some myself.
Or have you to make for me some?
Laugh.
Did you cut them?
Because they look so clean.
I tried casting by mold, but the plastic is too thin and weak and the caps will bend… liquid plastic shrinks too after you pour it… trying to make button caps and joystick handles was interesting, but frustrating…
I had to draw the shape in autocad and laser cut it. Pretty tricky because it took me 3-4 tries to get the shape right. Does the actuator of the 22mm button fit into the clear part? if so, i can try to make some next time I am ready to laser cut something.
Oh.
So no mold. :sad:
Your Custom PS-14-KN Plunger fits into PS-14-K Cap.
And PS-14-K Microswitch fits into Plunger.
The problem is that the Slot in your Custom is 90 turned.
I posted picture of how it is on Page 4.
The PS-14-K goes Horizontal, while PS-14-KN goes Vertical.