Arc-Eye / Project Gouken - ARCEYE2 IS ARRIVING!

[xnammerx]

I want this so bad purplearms… >_> I’m going to rape you. no homo

[purplearms]

I want this so bad purplearms… >_> I’m going to rape you. no homo

:wtf: i hope something was lost in translation there…

On a side note, i think i’ve figured out what the problem is with my weird readings… green and blue are typically 3.6fv, so i have to use a small resistor to get 20ma per LED with 3.7v battery operation. The problem is that batteries are never their exact voltage. Mine measures 3.95 v which cranks current consumption to a whopping 60ma per LED

Red has a lower voltage, and requires a higher resistor, so the power consumption will vary by 5ma. Not a big deal compared to the +40ma jump because of the battery voltage…

so it looks like i will need something to regulate the voltage from my battery… you guys who are using usb should not have this issue… i would expect usb power to be regulated coming from ps3 or 360 or computer…

[bencao74]

I just tested the Arc-Eye boards in a red sanwa snap-in button…

Do you have some pics?

Bencao74 is the official distributor for Europe / Asia! He will set his own price because his manufacturing costs may be different.

One final note: Development of a LED controller for this is in the planning stage… some extra sweet possibilities with this

Jep, but pcb fab is in work. LED controller, too. We`ve to finish the Meisterschalter first, then we go ahead.

I managed to get some play testing last Friday on my joystick… Everything worked perfectly…

Running 12 buttons x 2 LEDs x 17ma = 408ma of current consumption theoretically. But the multimeter reads 910ma
Something is not quite right… LEDs would be burnt out if they were running at an average of 37.9ma… hmm…

my 6AH sparkfun 3.7v battery lasted about 8 hours from full charge to almost completely drained… more tests to come soon… it took roughly 12 hours to recharge… heres a quick pic of two of my friends playing on Fri…

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/KeithAl.jpg

What kind of beer?

you solved this issue that 910mA is taken?

[bencao74]

On a side note, i think i’ve figured out what the problem is with my weird readings… green and blue are typically 3.6fv, so i have to use a small resistor to get 20ma per LED with 3.7v battery operation. The problem is that batteries are never their exact voltage. Mine measures 3.95 v which cranks current consumption to a whopping 60ma per LED

Red has a lower voltage, and requires a higher resistor, so the power consumption will vary by 5ma. Not a big deal compared to the +40ma jump because of the battery voltage…

so it looks like i will need something to regulate the voltage from my battery… you guys who are using usb should not have this issue… i would expect usb power to be regulated coming from ps3 or 360 or computer…

perhaps add a step up converter here to have always the 5V. Some time ago I`ve made SUC for this task, one PCB from my little helper edition.
This SUC needs at least 1AA battery and outputs 5V. For this taks dozen of solutions exists.

@32teeth :

great diagram. Looks so professional.Time to add a led on button press mod, nor?

I don’t recommend to use 7404 Hex Inverter for driving such high current of nearly 40mA per color. A more sophisticated led driver seems more correct here.

[32teeth]

Looks so professional.

i make experience diagrams for a living.

Time to add a led on button press mod, nor?

yep, thats the intention with this
i meant to do it last night… …but i somehow managed to short my iron. it involved wine! don’t ask

will be picking up a new iron today!
if you are in toronto, the old ‘sonic electronic’ that was on queen is now at the back of the home hardware on college west of spadina

[purplearms]

Jep, but pcb fab is in work. LED controller, too. We`ve to finish the Meisterschalter first, then we go ahead.
What kind of beer?
you solved this issue that 910mA is taken?

Molson Canadian… das is stark bier!

Well i know what the cause is… variance on battery voltage from battery to battery, and the forward voltage of green/blue is very close to 3.7v which makes choosing resistors very tricky. And I believe the voltage of a battery usually drops as it gets weaker… since meisterschalter is designed for both battery and usb users, we really need some kind of solution to make the battery voltage stable at 3.7v… otherwise it will be difficult to support resistors for green/blue on battery power… any ideas?

I know the controller pcbs themselves must have regulated voltage supply, but the current rating (whatever it is) may make it unusable… i’m stumped… dunno what to do… step up converter is too inefficient and adds too much complexity to the board…

i make experience diagrams for a living.

That explains it… and here i am butchering diagrams with ms paint… lol… what program do you use? personally i gave up on button press light up… when i play against friends, they already like to peek over at my joystick to see what i’m doing… button press light up doesn’t help that… haha

if you are in toronto, the old ‘sonic electronic’ that was on queen is now at the back of the home hardware on college west of spadina

I’ll have to check it out… do they carry 0805 SMT resistors? e-sonic has minimum order of $25 and $8 shipping… makes getting resistors costly

[bencao74]

yep, thats the intention with this
i meant to do it last night… …but i somehow managed to short my iron. it involved wine! don’t ask

[ATTACH=CONFIG]53637[/ATTACH]

try this one for light up at button press. Try this one only with one button first.

[bencao74]

Molson Canadian… das is stark bier!

sounds lecker!!

[32teeth]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]53637[/ATTACH]

try this one for light up at button press. Try this one only with one button first.

i see, this closes the loop. i will try both as i am planning to use common ground

[32teeth]

Arc-Eye Tutorial / Build - Part 1:Setting Up

Okay, so i finally got down to business (i got these on monday) and sat down to build up the Arc Eye kindly provided by purplearms

1. Get your tools and work are ready (my fightstick tool box)

a. I built a PCB/USB/Screwdown terminal thing for testing this out (you don’t need one, it’s just to illustrate)

what it does

2. Orientate yourself with the Arc-Eye

a. this tutorial is for common ground application on the beta version so it may change
b. for common ground we will be saldering the LEDs at 180 degree turn from intended position (notch to bottom left)
c. if you are using only one color, pick one as you will need to solder the resistors accordingly
d. in the image above you will notice i have my helping hand alligator clip going through the center. THIS BOARD IS TIGHT. and in order not to pinch anything, this is the only ‘pinchable’ area

Next up… …Soldering

[32teeth]

Arc-Eye Tutorial / Build - Part 2:Soldering

First, understand that you will be soldering SMD (Surface Mount) LEDs and Resistors

1. get yourself a sharp / fine point soldering iron
   a. plug it in, heat it up
   b. have a glass of wine or beer while you are waiting

[LIST]
[*]i joke, but it does help me calm my shaky hands for SMD soldering
[/LIST]
2. now that your iron is hot, set your Arc-Eye in the helping hands
3. flux one (1) and only one connection pad of each of the following

[LIST]
[]#1 and #2 of corresponding color resistor pads
[]one corner of the SMD LED pads (the six pack) i chose the top right notch marked > on the board
[/LIST]

3. Tin your iron tip
   a. use your solder and tin the tip of the soldering iron then use a sponge to wipe it even (yes the flux will burn off and that is why we fluxed the contact pads)
4. take your solder tip and gently apply it to the fluxed contact pad. the solder will be drawn onto the pad. make sure it is a small amount

5. We are ready to solder the resistors (i go smallest pieces first)
   a. using needle point surgical tweezers pick up the resistor with black side up to dissipate heat
   b. line the resistor up to the already pre-soldered contact pad
   c. use your iron to heat the already placed solder and push your resistor into it
   d. you should end up with a nicely filleted (curved) solder joint (see right joint of right resistor in image)

e. now that the resistor is held in place, tack the other side with solder to finish

6. Repeat step 5 for teh SMD LEDs
   a. solder one corner in first and align it

b. solder the other 5 (in this image i already passed the wire through)

[32teeth]

Arc-Eye Tutorial / Build - Part 3:Light Camera Action

Okay, you are almost done

1. Get some 28-30 AWG wire
2. solder the wire through the via holes
   a. ground wire through the top via hole marked with a ‘>’ (black wire)
   b. vcc wire through your desired color (should be the same initial as your resistors)

[LIST]
[*]note: i am working with beta boards that are not marked for common ground so in my case since the LED was turned 180 degrees, anything marked R for red (ie, r, r1, r2) are use to achieve bkue, the only one not to worry about is green since it’s in the middle
[/LIST]
c. front side

d. back side

3. Now… …remember that USB/PCB/Scredown Terminal thing in Part 1 of this tutorial.Well, i now connect vcc to my red marking and ground to my black marking to test everything is good before proceeding

SUCCESS (these lights are f’n bright, even on 5v)

Next up! Light up on press activation!

[32teeth]

Arc-Eye Tutorial / Build - Part 4:Light up on activation

Now that we have tested the pcb is all in order and lights up when connected, we are ready to create a ground connection loop

1. how the wires connect (there is an diagrama few posts back, but here it is in plain english)a. your vcc (the one from a color) goes well to your vcc line (cthulhu or pcb or usb or battery)(red wire in image)
   b. the ground from the Arc-Eye (top via hole indicated by ‘>’) goes to the signal post on your button

go on, press the button

video
[media=youtube]b0Wlvage7oA[/media]

big thanks to purplearms for putting this idea together and sharing with the community
i had fun building tihs!

only 7 more buttons to go

the rest of the flickr set is here

[Maji-OMNI]

Hey 32teeth, or anyone else. Is having it dim while unactivated and go full brightness on activation possible?

[purplearms]

@32Teeth: Bravo! Thank you for sharing. Your knowledge and expertise is much appreciated by amateur butchers like me
Could you post some power consumption numbers for your stick overall (with/without LEDs)? Can’t wait to see this fully installed…

Since all my buddies come over on Friday for street fighter, i’ll get a chance to measure a whole bunch of TE sticks… Stock, and dual modded with cthulu. I rigged up this usb cable and NAUSB pass through port so that i can measure current draw by hooking up my multimeter in series to the +5v line. I’ll post my findings here. Then we’ll all have a good idea what current is available for the LEDs.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/USB.jpg

I’ve discovered i need 100ohm for my 3.915v battery to give me 20ma for red LED, and 32 ohm to give me 20ma for green/blue… now i gotta re-do all the resistors in my buttons…

[purplearms]

Hey 32teeth, or anyone else. Is having it dim while unactivated and go full brightness on activation possible?

I would think its possible with a switching transistor rigged to each arc-eye. You would supply low current to the LED, and in parallel would be an NPN transistor perhaps…

[jdm714]

Received my order of Arc-Eye from purplearms today.

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/77e7f080.jpg

Thank you purplearms.
They are very cool things.

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/10015445.jpg

Oh what guys?
What these weird things, other than LED and Resistor?

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/89d10987.jpg

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/e801dd70.jpg

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/2a9e5567.jpg

They are the Prototype Custom Clear Plungers.

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/6e4a9111.jpg

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/0be92f28.jpg

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/835aa0cc.jpg

Okay, let us get to some stuff.

I totally forgot about this, because purplearm’s had me excited.
The Custom Plungers will only work in Seimitsu PS-14-KN.
Well they work others too, but that be stupid.

I super forgot that the Plungers of PS-14-K and PS-14-KN are different.

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/565eaf92.jpg

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/cfa5a452.jpg

Looking good so far.

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/14d38a83.jpg

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/262609d2.jpg

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/663de84e.jpg

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/4eae35c7.jpg

Uh oh.
You see that?

There is the problem.
PS-14-K Plunger goes horizontal, while PS-14-KN Plunger goes vertical.

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/f2d974d4.jpg

Okay, now about the Arc-Eye.
I can confirm that these will NOT fit Seimitsu PS-14-K.

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/134ac4b4.jpg

The Arc-Eye does not sit properly.
That is because of the Snap-in Tab having slope towards inside.

The Arc-Eye will fit into Sanwa OBSF-30 though.
Because the Snap-in Tab does not go in, but flat.

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/8722d21b.jpg

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/a354e368.jpg

Compare.

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Arc-Eye/3e4b7bad.jpg

Man, I’m going to have to buy Seimitsu PS-14-KN now.
I wish I can have these for PS-14-K.

[purplearms]

Thanks for the pics… Maybe i can make a revision to include some cut-outs to make them fit ps-14-k… there should be a lot of clearance underneath the button cap, so perhaps you can put something on the base there to hold up the arc eye above the sloped tabs? Some thick double sided foam tape perhaps?

I’m in discussion right now with Bencao74 and Gummowned to produce a large batch which will drop the price… The issue is pre-assembly (it causes price to skyrocket) because 24 solder points per board is not a good thing

[32teeth]

Completed SE fightstick: part 1

1. wired up and ready to go (see my previous posts for tutorial on this)

2. close up of drill holes in buttons (used 1/16 drill bit)
   and yes, i was too lazy to pull the buttons out

3. shameless plug of inside of SE

4. first Arc-Eye installed

5. all Arc-Eyes that where pre wired are now seated in the buttons

[32teeth]

Completed SE fightstick: part 2

6. the rats nest (orange wires power, black lines ground)

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2761/4397240720_882a8e40d2.jpg

7. all power lines tinned together then into the VCC on Cthulhu

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2732/4396477309_9f13c352d9.jpg

8. connecting the signal wire to the ground on Arc-Eye (compare the gauges of wiring…)

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2696/4397244732_4f707c6139.jpg

9. also updated the LEDs on the XBOX guide button (these are smaller than the 0805 resistors)

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2736/4397274176_616d049578.jpg

10. button illumination

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4026/4397288450_75d9902ec8.jpg