Arc-Eye / Project Gouken - ARCEYE2 IS ARRIVING!

Tech Talk
41

thanks purplearms for all your help so far

here is another image of my intentions
understand that (thanks for purplearms description) i will only be using blue with common ground

so that being said, anything on the ARC-EYE PCB labeled with R (for red) is used for the Blue LED since the LED is rotated 180deg
the bold lines represent the installed components (LED and resistors)

http://www.fakesite.com/UPLOADS/arceye.png

42

Its just a simple board to make LED installation a little cleaner =)
Although LED modding is a bit more advanced than you may be comfortable with handling…
I think there are guys on the board who offer mod services if you’re not willing to risk butchering some electronics (as I have)…

Thanks for the diagram =)
I modified your diagram and switched the labels for B and R on the solder holes and the resistor pad so that people won’t get too confused…

43

yeah i kinda don’t want to butcher at them either. don’t know how led mods will work for me then. =( good work though bro

44

purplearms, Private Message coming.
So that I can secure my chance for Arc-Eye.

I was going to grab 50% of your current inventory.
Because I want all these to myself.
Laugh.

But I’m just going to do 25% now.

I hate soldering surface mount.
But I’ll get through with it to less the money.

And I’ll experiment with colors myself.
So non-soldered PCB be good.

45

percentages are odd… lol… just pm me with how many you want… i’ll ship it to you with resistors unsoldered and you can experiment… just be careful not to put too much current or the wrong resistor or you can fry LED… i’ve melted a few LED cases when i first tried to solder them … lol…

For the benefit of everyone, i recommend using an eraser on the end of a pencil to hold down the LED… solder one of the legs, then that should hold it down while you solder the others…

For resistors, you can try using a small sloted screwdriver to pin the SMT resistors in place…

46

I managed to get some play testing last Friday on my joystick… Everything worked perfectly…

Running 12 buttons x 2 LEDs x 17ma = 408ma of current consumption theoretically. But the multimeter reads 910ma :open_mouth:
Something is not quite right… LEDs would be burnt out if they were running at an average of 37.9ma… hmm…

my 6AH sparkfun 3.7v battery lasted about 8 hours from full charge to almost completely drained… more tests to come soon… it took roughly 12 hours to recharge… heres a quick pic of two of my friends playing on Fri…

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/KeithAl.jpg

47

Fixing a 24mm hole screw-up

Ok the next mod i’ll talk about is the installation of DPDT switch. Nothing fancy. Just recovering from a massive fuck-up. I hope this helps someone in the future… Heres the story… While wood working, I was supposed to drill a 6mm hole for a DPDT switch. Instead I used the 24mm forster drill bit. Oops! And I must have been super high that day because I recessed the button hole too. I didn’t realize this until after I stained the wood.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/ButtonFix1.jpg

Here is how I fixed it:

  1. I bought a Yenox Hole Plug from lizard lick. They’re designed for 30mm holes, but the shaft actually fits 24mm holes.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/Yenox.jpg

  1. Notice the hole plug fits into the 24mm hole, but was not large enough to fit inside the recessed cavity.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/ButtonFix2.jpg

  1. So I drilled a hole right in the center of it, and inserted a nut and bolt:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/ButtonFix3.jpg

  1. Next i inserted the end of the bolt into my trusty power drill:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/ButtonFix4.jpg

  1. Using 60 grit sandpaper, i sanded the edge while spinning it with the drill. This decreased the diameter of the plug cap. Here is the modified plug next to to a stock one. Notice the small decrease in diameter:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/ButtonFix5.jpg

  1. Test fit shows it now fits into the recessed hole:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/ButtonFix6.jpg

  1. Next, I removed the nut and bolt. Using drill bits of increasing size, I enlarged the hole until the DPDT switch fit inside (which has a round 6mm shaft):

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/ButtonFix7.jpg

  1. A look at the wiring on the underside:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/ButtonFix8.jpg

  1. Presto! Fuckup has been fixed!

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/ButtonFix9.jpg

48

nice save!

49

Thanks… I’m getting weird readings from my multimeter… Can you remind me again what resistors did you use for your arc-eye installation 5v operation and what was the current draw?

I’m seeing stuff like 60ma being drawn for blue and green, and 25ma being drawn for red… something not right… i’m also reading 20ma draw for ps3 pcb, and 40-60ma draw for 360 pcb which seems too low… it could be that i’m an idiot and don’t know how to use a multimeter too… lol…

I’ve supplied 32teeth and jdm714 with 200ohm for red, and 100ohm for green/blue…

50

I used 136ohms for each red led (2x 68 ohm resistors in series). Each led was drawing ~20ma so ~40ma per button. This of course using the usb’s 5v.

How are you using the multimeter?

51

136 ohm for blue/green i assume? What about red? Maybe i should have given stronger resistors to 32teeth and jdm714…
But if the controller is truly drawing so low, then maybe it will be ok…

i was setting the multimeter in A (dc) mode, took the red banana plug from V slot and put it into A slot… put the leads in series… not sure if it matters if it goes before or after the load?

52

i only tested the values for red.

53

Ok i just ran some tests… i’m satisfied with the result…
100 ohm gives 20ma per led operation on 5v for green/blue (and for white only LEDs too)
200 ohm gives 16ma per led operation on 5v for red

test on power consumption of cthulu dual mod setup will be done this fri…

54

I’d like to ask how does this wire.

55

After the board is assembled, you need to wire ground and power to the board. To do that you strip the end of a wire, poke it through the appropriate hole on the board and solder it in place. There are 4 holes. One for ground/power (depending on which way you want the power to flow), one wire for red, one for blue, one for green (you only wire to the color you want). Then the other end of the wires (ground and power) need to be wired somewhere depending on what your setup is (usb or battery)

56

maybe this diagram will help

http://www.fakesite.com/UPLOADS/arceye-wired.png

57

@32Teeth, thanks very much for sharing your diagrams!!
Could you maybe swap the B and R label for the resistor and via hole labels, so people won’t get confused?

58

fixed the diagrams as per purplearms note
hope the image makes sense

additionally, i will be testing a build tonight
here is what i am gunning for to test the implementation

http://www.fakesite.com/UPLOADS/arceye-test.png

59

Now I see your diagrams.
I was not able to see them before.

60

Thanks! And of course the old B1/B2 become the new R1/R2

I can provide you with higher resistors if 100ohm / 20ma for blue/green leds is too bright / too much current…