You know, I saw one of those fiberglass pens at radio shack and was really debating on getting one to scratch away things when I needed to, but I decided a flat head screwdriver is free so I’d stick with that 
ARC-EYE LEDs
The first and most obvious mod i’ve done are the buttons. This consists of two separate mods:
-
Custom translucent button caps (a prototype not currently available for sale)
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Custom LED circuit board that i’ve decided to call the ARC-EYE
The Arc-Eye is a custom printed circuit board that I designed to hold two super bright RGB LEDs and resistors, designed to fit into a semitsu ps-14-kn 30mm buttons. They can be used with 5v usb power source, or 3.7v PS3 battery power. All you need to do is drill two small holes to feed wires through the base of the button, solder wires to the via holes, pop in the board, wire to a switch and to a power source, and Bobs your uncle!
Why did i do this? I’m making a bunch of joysticks. For myself and for some friends. So I have an excuse to do it. Its not cost effective, or practical due to the shape of the circuit boards. So consider it a luxury mod. Why build a stick of your own after all when theres madcatz TE? Because you can! 
Lets walk through the install process…
Here are all the Arc-Eyes prepared for my joystick:
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/Arc-Eye1.jpg
Its a doughnut shaped PCB that fits onto the shaft of the plunger. Shaft fits into hole! I’m so immature!
The friction alone will hold it in place. Don’t worry, these things will not come off. You need a screwdriver to do that now. In fact, due to margin of error during manufacturing, some boards can fit all the way down while some cannot go all the way down. Notice that there is a massive amount of clearance to the white plunger itself. Also notice the position of the LEDs relative to the clips on the plunger. The LEDs are position right over the clips. Orientation is important!!
First step is to solder wires to the via holes, through the underside of the board. Yellow wire is soldered to V on one side of the board. The red green and blue via holes are on the other side of the board. So you will have wires sticking out from the bottom from both sides.
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/Arc-Eye4.jpg
Before you install the plunger into the body, you need to drill two small 1/16" holes. Use high speed or the bit will wander, and dont put your hand there. Don’t air drill like i’m showing here… put the plunger down on a piece of scrap wood and drill down onto it!
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/Arc-Eye5.jpg
A closeup of the holes. Note their position relative to the holes in the side of the body. This is important!!!
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/Arc-Eye6.jpg
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/Arc-Eye7.jpg
Feed the wires through the holes. Yellow is VCC, blue wire is for blue LED in this case. If you run wires to green and blue, you will have three wires going through one of the holes. It will fit:
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/Arc-Eye8.jpg
Pull the wires through and snap the plunger into the body. Notice the hole relative to the position of the wire on the PCB edge.
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/Arc-Eye9.jpg
A Closeup of the installed plunger, with correct orientation of the LEDs.
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/ARc-Eye10.jpg
LEDs lit up:
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/ARc-Eye11.jpg
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/ARc-Eye12.jpg
This thing can get so bright that you can see the outline of the plunger. You can reduce the power of the LEDs by varying the resistors used.
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/ARc-Eye13.jpg
holy shiiii- thats awesome. and unbelievably eye blindlingly bright
FAQ moved to first message in thread
purplearms, you said you design these LED PCB for Seimitsu PS-14- and PS-14-KN.
But the thing is that the PCB will not work with PS-14-K.
Why? Because the Microswitch is same design as in a Sanwa Button.
PS-14D Microswitch of a PS-14-K does not have part for PCB to hold onto like PS-14G Microswitch of PS-14-KN.
I still want your Arc-Eyes, even though I only have Seimitsu PS-14-K.
I will never get PS-14-KN, because I do not like Screw-ins.
Never used them and do not want to.
Laugh.
Well you said PCB will not work with Sanwa.
And Seimitsu PS-14-K are same as Sanwa.
So I’m just saying what you say.
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/images/sanwa-sw68.jpg
Sanwa SW-68 Microswitch.
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/images/PS-14-D-Switch.jpg
Seimitsu PS-14D Microswitch.
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/images/seimitsu-PS14Gswitch.jpg
Seimitsu PS-14G Microswitch.
I stand corrected… mistake has been changed… thanks for the heads up… a friend of mine told me the snap in was exactly the same as screw in type and sanwas were different…
The pics look like the arc-eyes could still work… you’d just have to double side tape or use a dab of glue from the glue gun…
the exterior diameter of the pcb is 22mm and the interior is 11mm…
Must use the screw in types for custom wood panels 
drop me a pm when you decide what you need (common ground or common anode… 5v or 3.7v… how bright etc)…
I wonder if these would fit in a OBSC-30 …
I care more about that stick than those buttons. I would love to have a ball that lights up like that (with a light up on stick activation mod) added to my already heavily modded SE.
I just tested the Arc-Eye boards in a red sanwa snap-in button. The board will have to be taped/glued down in order for it to fit.
When purplearms said these things are bright, they really are. Its bright enough to make the red sanwa button glow much like when you put your finger tip over a flashlight. I measured the current and it was drawing ~40ma (2 leds @ ~20ma). I did mention that this is an all solid color button right?
Also, I tested using 30gauge wire and was able to wire the button up without having to drill any holes. I just used the holes on the side of the button that is already there.
Well Sanwa OBSC-30 use same Microswitch as standard Sanwa; SW-68 Microswitches.
purplearms say that PCB will not work.
But I believe they still can.
Just tape or glue the PCB to the inside.
The way PCB works with PS-14-KN is that it holds onto the tube around Actuator.
The SW-68 and PS-14D Microswitch to not have tube for PCB to hold around onto.
But I super feel, and very certain that Arc-Eye will work with any 30mm Japanese Button.
Except for Buttons with Sanwa RS-SG Microswitch of course.
Those are totally different.
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/images/RS-SG.jpg
Ok, looks like purplearms and Gummowned agrees with me.
In that Arc-Eyes will work with Sanwa using tape or glue.
I knew I would have to glue or tape down Arc-Eyes to use in PS-14-K in first place.
I was just fixing purplearms, because he say work with PS-14-K and PS-14-KN but not Sanwa; but PS-14-K same as Sanwa, so I had to explain that.
Then perhaps a sneak peak at an upcoming mod might whet your appetite… lol…
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/Switcher.jpg
Outside of 30mm skeletons I really don’t know, so thank you for testing that… … you can feed the wires out the side as you mentioned, but as a personal preference, i personally prefer to drill holes. My panel depth is thick enough such that the side holes are not accessible at all… in a case like that you have no choice but to drill…
One thing to note that if used with your leo board, the ground wire can share one the terminals. Thats less wires you need to run around 
Thank you for the explanation! Much appreciated! I only ever opened up 30mm skeletons… like i said earlier, the mod was done for me but it works out that it works for all different types… lol… i’m a maniac… take anything i say with a grain of salt
Honestly, roughly $50 for a set (board, leds, soldered and shipped to the US) is pretty damn good for something so custom. I want to see what that controller can do, but I’m still good for 8. Voltec can’t finish his new cases soon enough…
BTW, what 360 pad are you using in that case? doesn’t look like the M$ one (but what do I know?)
For anyone who’s interested in picking up some, pm me… first come first serve…
It is a late version MS wireless controller. He desoldered everything off (analog trigger/sticks, PnC port, microphone port, rumble connectors, battery pins, and that metal thingy over the PnC port that helps with the wireless signal).
Oh yeah i forgot to answer that question… dont desolder that metal bracket thingy off… lol…
It was tricky to find room in there for everything… I needed to mount ps3 pcb and battery higher than leo and 360 pcb… fortunately the LEO is small
Meisterschalter 
LOL
just picked mine up from purplearms
super nice fella!
all i can say is i am wowed by the efforts put into this project
hopefully i will get to this soon and be able to post up some pics and tutorials
will try in both the in clear PS-14-KN (have a few spares) and the stock madcatz ones for translucency - test effect only (don’t feel like butchering my sanwas yet)
I can’t think of a more appropriate name for this mod
I’m anxious to see the results!
I am about 50% sold out. PM me if you are interested in picking up some since second production is not looking likely at this moment…
Here are some wiring diagrams by the way…
Common power (anode):
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/CommonAnode.jpg
The silk screen (printed text) on the board indicates component, solder positions for a common power setup. This is how to do common ground (cathode):
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/CommonGround.jpg
In a common ground setup, you can just tap into the button ground terminal (if using a LEO or cthulu or any common ground controller)… one less wire to run…
Sorry I have no knowledge about pcb’s or anything or how to solder, but I’d like to know what’s being talked about/sold here. I’ve been wanting to dual mod my 360 TE for some time now, and LEDs but as I said no solder experience or knowledge. >_> Just curious whats going on here.