Wow was it opened by customs? Thats the first time i’ve heard that an arc-eye shipment was opened before delivery…
Sounds like you have an interesting project going on!
Sadly, in Poland, it is not unheard of (even more, it is a very common practice ;/) for the Post Office employees to peek into packages and take away items of obvious value from their rightful owners - a heritage from the communist times, still existing in peoples’ mentality after 21 years of the system’s change…
Project Gouken / Project Arc-Eye
Had the same problem with a order sent to ireland. It was plexi but the half of the parts was missing
Sent from my Milestone using Tapatalk
Dang. My mod has been suspended for now as yesterday a nasty accident happened leaving the stick’s mainboard FUBAR. ;/
EDIT: There’s a light in the tunnel:
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_81&products_id=234
It’s a PC-compatible usb board designed to interface custom-built arcade controllers. I’ll order it as soon as I return from my honeymoon (~late August). Cheers.
EDIT2: Found out about the Dual Strike board. Prolly gonna use that.
I modded my TE with Arc-Eyes and Master Strike:
[media=youtube]ooDOxOsOFEU[/media]
Pictures are here.
Nice work IvIePhisto!!!
Very creative.
Very nice! Did you reprogram the masterstrike for the color changing effects or add another board like 32teeth did?
Thank you, guys :china: It’s just a Master Strike with custom firmware plus a 4066N. Wiring schematic and firmware are in the MS Subversion repository
great mod! 
give the MS a new perspective! you should post this in the MS thread…
Just looked at the wiring diagram. That’s some amazing stuff. I’d love to read a worklog on something like that.
First of all thank you PurpleArms for creating these arc-eyes for our modding fun. The time, effort and the support you give everyone here is much appreciated.
I am very interested in using these arc-eyes in my custom stick thas in the preliminary planning stages. I am currently researching all the parts I will to order for all the functionality I want. I am at the stage where I am trying to figure out how I want to implement my LEDs and such. After reading through this entire thread a few times, I believe I understand completely what I am able to achieve using arc-eyes and how to do so for the most part.
For the type of lighting I want to do, the SMD LEDs that most people are using are not going to provide the effect I want because I have a very distinct vision of exactly (hopefully) how it will look like and function. So the big deal is that, my design/vision requires UV lighting as my finalized artwork will be accented/highlighted with UV paint combined with plexi etching for a real surreal effect under the proper lighting conditions. Ideally the color scheme I want to use is Red/UV(purple) think shin akuma, and possibly cyan as the last color.
So that said, i have done extensive research into different types of LEDs. I was not able to find any surface mount leds that had red and uv or anything and uv. they have all red or all uv but no combinations containing uv purple. So finally I have a set of questions to pose, but first this diagram:
http://www.realmofpainv3.com/images/project.knytemare/arceye-test-SM-MOD.png
Sorry for molesting your otherwise very nice looking diagram, 32teeth :wtf:
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Instead of using the RGB LEDs that are provided, can I use 3 tiny LEDs (one for each color), as I have illustrated in the diagram? I do plan on using a led controller prolly masterstrike, but I have not completed that part of my research yet.
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I dont not want to combine colors at all so I am not worried about that. If only one color is triggered at a time @ 20mA per LED or 40mA per button, then would figuring out what resistors to use would be pretty straight foward as it would for the stock RGB LEDs what come with the arc-eyes? Or would there be special considerations for this type of setup? Currently I plan on using a 3.7ish volt battery for powering duties.
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What mcd value do you recommend for LEDs to use with arc-eye? My research shows there are values all over the place. From 300-400mcd all the way to 13000mcd. I understand different colors will appear brighter than others at different mcds and if I want to I can add additional resistors to certain colors to level out the brightness accross the board. I would just like to have an average mcd value that has worked for people using arc-eyes.
I plan on using the bencao74 recommended 6AH battery from Sparkfun so I am not to worried about the usb power constraints for driving all this atm.
Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to provide enough information, so hopefully my questions are easier to understand and answer. Thanx in advance 
Hey ShinMessiah
answers to your questions:
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Yes you can, provided that the leds are small enough to fit on the SMT pads, as you have illustrated
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20ma was basically the recommended current for those LEDs for full brightness. I’ve run them at 60ma (not recommended). So the current you will need to run your LEDs at depends on its specifications. I find brightness ratings dont really give you a proper sense. You need to run experiments to see what brightness will satisfy you.
If you’re using battery with similar voltage to the fv of your LED, you will need to run experiments to see which resistor you need to make it run at a desirable current.
The difficulty is that batteries commonly are higher voltage when fully charged. In my setup, my sparkfun 6AH battery is rated at 3.7v, but when fully charged, the multimeter reads 3.9v. So I needed like a small resistor like 24-30 ohm bring it down to about 20ma. The mistake i did initially was assuming 5ohm resistors were ok and i ended up getting 60ma because i didnt anticipate battery voltage to be slightly higher. And i got 3x the current expected because when forward voltage is so close in value to battery voltage, a small change in resistor value can really throw the numbers (using the equation v = i * r)
Beware that masterstrike has issues recharging the battery if its used to power ps3 sixaxis pcb. I use it to switch on and off the LEDs, but leave the power switching to the wireless 360 / ps3 controllers through DPDT switch.
A good site for you to use is Current limiting Resistor calculator for leds
- MCD values are like contrast ratios on TVs. Every manufacturer uses their own standard to measure, so largely the numbers dont mean much except to compare relative brightness across different leds of the same manufacturer. I put 2 leds on the board like that to make the lighting look more even.
Thank you for answering my questions. All very valuable information for my notes. And will hopefully narrow down my search greatly.
Extremely valuable information, especially considering I plan on using the same battery. Whenever my battery gets in ill have to charge it full and see what voltage I get because it might be from a different batch and I may get different results. My question now is that 24-30 ohm resistor(or whatever I would use given the battery) would go where? before the power hits the arc-eyes? or in addition to the individual resistors for each color? maybe on those nifty lil “S1” pads? Once I have fully assembled an arc-eye in this configuration and powered it to light up, where is the best place to measure the draw on the arc-eye with my meter?
Funny you should mention this because I have several questions about the masterstike and what part it would play in my setup. The concept for my stick, is very similar to your project gouken, except in addition to leo board for dual wireless and masterstrike for LEDs, I also want to have a MC Cthulhu for fallback and legacy consoles with a rj45 jack (wiring nightmare i kno). I will assume that is appropriate ask those questions here as it related to your project gouken setup and arc-eyes. If not I can repost in the masterstrike thread.
The only issues I have read about in terms of charging is that it just takes really long to charge that battery something like 12+ hours, which I could live with because I do have life at times and its doubtful it will ever get 24/7 operation. My current sessions are about 4 hours max given my time budget lol.
Is it a DPDT switch? someone in another thread told me I would need 3PDT switch lol.
Now the function of the switch itself basically as I understand it is, Power Xbox pcb, OFF, Power PS3 pcb. Now when in the OFF position, is that when it charges?
I was told in my inquiry thread here, it is possible to use this setup but I would need an additional SPDT switch for switching between wired and wireless mode and regulate which boards gets power as to not fry anything. Using this setup, if I was in “wired” mode is it possible to get the masterstrike and LEDs to run exclusively off the battery? If I was using the “wired” mode, could I still get the battery to charge?
Should I count on needing extra button for syncing duties or are you just using usb to sync?
Excellent analogy, that makes much more sense now lol
Once again, I’m sorry for another long post and so many questions…but its partly your fault…when I was reading an article about kick ass custom sticks @ eventhubs, your project gouken really stood out, no really it did…so much that as I started to watch your youtube demo of it and arc-eyes, I became instantly inspired and/or obsessed with creating my very own kick ass stick and have been researching ever since. Granted why I chose to do a similar setup but decided on trying to add a MCC and RJ45 into mix. Mainly because I could use that extra functionally and I havent seen anyone else try to do all that, LEO+MASTERSTRIKE+ARC-EYES+MC Cthulhu+RJ45 in one single box. I am the monster you created OK you can tell to STFU and stop asking any questions now Thanx again
led’s please
I’ve read the thread you made, but have been hesitant on replying. Reason being is well its pretty complex setup you’re aiming for.
I will say this: It will be possible to take a dual wireless setup (sixaxis + wireless 360 hooked up to a usb jack) and add a MC cthulhu (hooked up to a rj45 jack). I’ve made improvements in the new version of the leo board that will make adding a 3rd PCB (like the MC) a lot easier. However, I haven’t thought up how exactly you would need to wire up the master strike to that setup.
Also trying to do a led mod will be problematic because of the two different power sources.
Will reply more in depth tomorrow… i am currently helping a friend do a “quad” mod… dual wireless with leo 2.0, and a paewang dual pcb connected… haven’t wired it up yet, but theoretically it should be possible!
Thanks I did post in the MS thread
Thought about that, but it was enough work as it was. But I’ll answer any questions
On a circuit with LED, it does not matter whether the resistor goes before or after the LED. The arc-eye board can accept SMT or THD resistors…one for each color x 2 LED = 6 resistors… so 24-30 ohm would be for green/blue because the fV is 3.7v… for red i used 100 ohm because the fV is about 2.2v (or something like that)… the board is marked so you know where to put the resistors… just beware that the orientation of the LEDs change where the resistors will go… refer to the diagram in my first post… to measure current draw, your multimeter has to be set up in series with the LED circuit… so for example, you can attach vcc to red probe, and black probe will go to wherever vcc was supposed to connect to…
As gummowned mentioned, this can get tricky… you would need a leo2… i’m helping my friend do something similar with paewang board, but we havent done any testing yet… i make no guarantees either… the idea is to do it with two USB ports. One dedicated for wired, and one for wireless ps3 pcb. They can be hidden in cable compartment of a TE stick and should work as long as you dont plug in both usb cables at the same time. So you would have two ports in there and only have to carry one usb-b plug around… ground is ground, no matter what voltage you use, so everything connected to leo, and grounds for usb plus and battery connected together should be fine… but dont take my word for it… you’re on your own for this part…
Well as i said in the other thread, its caused by inefficiency at low current of the PNP transistor (which acts as a gate to turn on and shut off power) and the workaround is to use a DPDT switch… DPDT = 2 poles… one to switch power between PCBs, one to switch power to masterstrike no matter which way you throw the switch… you dont need a third pole (3PDT) unless you need it for something specific… 3pdt switches are harder to find… dpdt switches can be found as nice toggle switches… currently i have the external usb port connected directly to ps3 pcb for recharging (so i flip the DPDT switch to ps3 side, then turn off LEDs using masterstrike select+down, and plug in the cable to recharge, which takes 2 hours to charge 6aH) and bencao changed the firmware so that select+up will pull the xbox sync button (you need to wire sync button to a certain pin on the micro controller) The reason why i skipped using USB to sync was that it was giving me inconsistent behavior on 360 side, and I discovered why with a hint from toodles… basically the 4066N chips i’ve been using are not the correct ones… the USB switching functionality will still work with the correct 4066N chip… but sales are too low volume to justify ordering a new batch of chips… so i opted for the sync button workaround…
thats crazy i see u located in Toronto. how much would it cost for u to hook that up to my fight stick? i dont know jack shit about PCB’s…
Nice to play you online yesterday lol