Francys Paye gave me the hint that people could add some paper artwork under the etched button inlay disc, too. In case you don’t linke to see the mechanics.
Well, I’m in the early stages of getting everything wired up. Expect a lot of stupid questions here and in the Masterstrike thread. Here’s the first one:I’m going to order up the pin headers online (since Radioshack doesn’t carry them and I can’t find any electronics places locally). In that first picture where you’re making the template, what is that white block thing you have the pin headers on? I probably should order one of those at the same time. Since I’m doing the button press light up thing, I’ll probably just notch the button on the side where the arc-eye ground is and solder it to the switch lug rather than crimp it to the signal QD.
b’cuz of that mistake i actually made something just as cool lol… from there, those harnesses connect with what i guess u can call female header pins which will allow the choice of what color is wanted simply by removing/adding certain grounds and in a secondary function as a sort of quick disconnect as well =D http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh227/TenshiAoi/Temjinalphas%20Stick%20Worklog/th_Untitled-1copy.jpg
yes and no
i have modified (read: dremmeled out) a few sanwa buttons and all you will get (at least on white ones) is the tiny ring gap lighting up, but hardly, and slight light up (like a war glow) to the plunger. Black ones you only get the dim ring
Since I hate the way the regular clear buttons look unlit. Maybe someone could try it out to see what it looks like. I dont want to get ahead of myself waisting the arc-eyes for a slim ring of light on each button.
The female pin headers came in! I finished dremeling the buttons and switches to make the headers fit. Now to make the wiring harness for them. Solder, solder everywhere…
Somehow, the first 45 seconds of that video seems to distract me… Gum is a good dude, and a wiz with that soldering iron
Those pin headers were a great idea. I managed to dremel the buttons and solder the headers to the arc eye boards Friday, and start on the wiring harness Saturday. Since I had 80 of the female headers and my male headers didn’t come in, I just soldered the 30 gauge wire into the holes of the female pin headers and used those.
Started my modding project yesterday, after both arc eyes and arcade parts finally arrived (arc eyes arrived a week ago or so, the package has been opened during the shipment, thankfully nothing was stolen nor broken).
I’m modding my newly bought (used tho) Hori Fighting Stick 3 (chose it cause of the price and great PC compatibility; I played with it for 3 days but got annoyed with the terrible joystick, mainly cause of rectangular restrictor plate and tendency to punch through the center to the opposite side when released) with Sanwa joystick, Seimitsu clear buttons and arc eyes. My idea is bit ripped from 32teeth (You made some very inspirational videos), I want to use Atmega32 and 3 shift registers to control the coloring of all 8 buttons.
Things done so far:
Sanwa joystick is installed (it needed some very heavy file/blade/soldering iron work so it would fit the case; needed to melt some plastic from the restrictor plate with the soldering iron as I don’t have a functioning driller atm), attached 5-pin connector to the wires (ofc, the schema of the pins I used was wrong, so all directions were mirrored… Reattaching with same wires was not so good idea - all the wires look and feel bit flimsy now, might need to redo the whole thing later), tried if it works - it works beautifully, the joystick is much more dynamic and responsive, octagonal restrictor plate is a blessing ;-),
all arc eyes have soldered female swiss round pins (again, great idea, 32teeth),
8 of 8 buttons are fully assembled (my files got really blunt during the joystick’s installation),
the atmega PCB has been cut to fit the case (very little space left) and all electronic elements have been soldered onto it.
I’ll try to paste some more photos as the work goes further.
@19.07.2010: deep-cut my hand with a file, that will slow down the buttonwork
@25.07.2010: waiting for some parts to come, doing some redesigning (round pins for normal ones - round pins do wear very quickly, 75% is pretty lose now…)
@26.07.2010: square pins won’t fit - staying with round ones (gah). I finally measured currents and adjusted resistances for the arc eyes, so r/g/b colors glow with similar brighness - also between different buttons (this part was tricky, as some arc eyes had different resistances from the other ones). All 8 buttons, white-lit (r+g+b) need ~320ma, so with ~30-40ma for the board and the atmega, 350-360ma max current is still under 500ma constraint (maybe some future mods?).