Lovely skills there. That lead to the signal, would that be the signal line (S1?) for the Master Strike? I’m guessing if I weren’t doing the rumble activatin, but wanted green for 360 play, I’d run that lead to the switch as well, but then run to the appropriate signal line (S2?) on the MS?
the diagram shows how to wire it to the game controller pcb not the master strike.
Ah. Duh me…
Lol… the signal line is independent, but if that button happens to be the one you want to use to signal to masterstrike to do something, then S1 or whatever signal you want would be wired also to the button terminal… For on the fly switching though, Gummowned chose to use turbo + joystick direction. So the approprate S# would be wired to those terminals…
Heres another idea for masterstrike… Signal line to rumble, to change color schemes whenever it rumbles…
Any update on availability?
I’m as anxious as you… should be any day now… will post as soon as i get it!
Lol, the anxiety is definitely killin me as well >_< …
Oh alright then, I’ll be patient :V While I’m waiting, I did this sweet MS-Paint schematic for what I want to do when my boards get here. Does it look correct?
I don’t think the diode’s are needed if just doing a light up on activation and rumble. I needed to use the diodes because of the dim effect (and possibly because I was using white for 2 buttons mixing all 3 colors together).
Also should point out that when using the arc-eye’s in a common anode setup that the R and B spots will be swapped.
Oh yeah, I’d be sure that the right color LEDs would be lighting up for each task. Is there any harm in using the diodes for protection, however? I’ve got some extra 1N914/4148 diodes left over from another project. And other than the diodes and the switched colors, does everything about that schematic look correct?
Looks about right, but gummowned is right. Red and blue are swapped since you are doing common power (anode).
The diodes are a waste on the rumble though… you can use them to be safe on the blue led wires… that way, you can also do dim leds and 10ma on button press, like how gummowned did with maji-omni’s
Okay, good to know. Thanks for the help guys, and I’m really excited.
Technically there’s no “harm” other than reducing the brightness of the LED’s a tad (it adds another .6v (nominal) voltage drop to the equation). However, TBH I would take them out, since it’s just extra time and effort to wire something that’s really not needed. An LED is a diode already, current won’t be flowing backward since that’s all there is in that circuit. I even think Gumm could’ve taken his diodes out since when the button’s pressed, the current will take only the path of the button due to the high resistance in the other path.
Just my $.02 though
lookie lookie what the mailman brought to my door today!
I got a lot of work ahead of me…
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y86/blu2fourty/BlankBoards.jpg
I’m glad it made it safe and clear. Enjoy going through that mess of a bag 
hehe, light my fire
Hurray!!! :woot:
Just an update for those who do not keep track of the masterstrike thread:
I’ve finished wiring arc-eyes and a masterstrike V1 in my project gouken stick. It took me the entire weekend (longer than expected) because I kept running into problem after problem. And now i’m working out some kinks with masterstrike but i’m close to being ready to finally work on orders. I will definitely send some in the mail today. Hang in there guys! I’m working as hard as i can!
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/AEInstall1.jpg
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss240/purplearms/AEInstall2.jpg
Clean wiring!!!