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Better to use a PC, you’ll have an easier time.
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We don’t think you can remap buttons on the fly (software method) with the MC Cthulhu unless physically changing which wires go to which buttons (hardware method). Why do you think this board has programmable buttons?
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The firmware is not alterable AFAIK
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Unfortunately, that is kind of inconvenient, because from 1999 onward, when the internet was a big thing, and the only reason we upgraded from an Apple IIe and and Atari 800 XL, the only computers we even bought were Macintoshes. I tried using the PC mode with Virtual console, and it didn’t mess up, but was only barely useful fr a couple PC only Games. Then I used boot camp, and had the PC section messed up, I tried fixing it, but the phone in PC repair people “broke into my computer” and I didn’t like that feeling being a Mac guy. I couldn’t stop them or question them. They did things I was uncomfortable with, and I had to sever the connection and just erase the PC portion. Luckily the Mac portion is untouched, thanks to partition segregation.
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I though the USB port meant it can be programmed. So this brings up 2 questions.
a. Would a standard USB B Female-> USB A Male attached to a standard USB A Female-> RJ45 Female used for making cheap long USB cables. They usually come in pairs, One with a USB A Male and te other with a USB A Female on one end and an RJ45 female on the other, or is this a specialized, specific cable used only for Fight PCBs.
b. This problem why resoldering wires doesn’t work is because the Saturn, Dreamcast, PS2. and PS3 are right and obvious and work well for all games, not just fight games, but the SNES is at the “pad default” which works with Street Fighter out of the box, but for most games other than Street Fighter, the “joystick default”, used by Ascii, Capcom, and NIntendo’s Japanese Super Advantage makes sense for a larger collection of games, but not fight games directly. Luckily most fight games have button remapping in software, but Super Mario World and Contra 4, which don’t have controller adjustments, doesn’t work well with the pad default. Also the Xbox Prime makes no sense, because I thought it was
X Y WH L
A B BL R
But in actuality, it’s:
X Y BL WH
A B R L
I don’t understand the logic of this at all, especially if you look at my post here: https://archive.supercombo.gg/t/are-rj45-based-pcbs-adjustable/580087/2
The problem is if I adjust for SNES or Xbox Prime separately by wiring different holes, it will throw off the other systems that originally DID work. And according to the blogspot page, all the wires are encoded, which means one pin does not correspond to one input. So there is no way I can have it wired one way for Xbox Prime, another for SNES, and a third for the rest, and still have the circuit work.
The Logic of Xbox Prime
After looking at the Xbox prime remapping, it corresponds more a more literal PS2-> Xbox Mapping than more intuitive RJ45-> Duke remapping. Isn’t the whole point of the remapping is to remap to the intuitive buttons on the Duke and not a PS2 pad-> Xox Prime Pad uber literal remapping. After all, this is for a fight stick.
Even the Capcom 15th Anniversary fight stick doesn’t have perfect Xbox/Playstation parity. Perfect parity is achieved in the PS3/360 mapping since the PS3 matches the PS2 and the 360 matches theXbox Prime Layout if the Black and White Buttons were moved to the bumpers. The Black corresponds to the R1/RB and the White corresponds to the L1/LB and R and L correspond to R2/Rt and L2/LT.
Finally I see the twisted logic. 
Like I said in the last post, its probably best just to have a separate padhack for your wants of SMW and as for the OG Xbox do the same thing. Unfortunately for you most people use the snes portion for fighting games (as what the MC Cthulhu was made for) and code was not implemented into it to do button remapping.
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The USB is there for easy Xbox/PS3/PC connectivity. As said, you can flash the firmware but you cannot alter the firmware.
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The MC Cthulhu is not designed to work with USB > RJ45 adapters. You can try it if you like, but you’re gonna have a bad time. RJ45 signals must be carried from the strip below the screw terminals.
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You don’t need to desolder anything to re-map buttons, just swap the button quick disconnects to get the combination you want.
Why did you think the MC Cthulhu had the ability to re-map buttons via software? You have not answered this question.
Answering the question, I thought the presence of a USB Port implied interface with a computer, hence implied reprogrammability. And I knew these devices contain PCBs, so I thought there could be a chance they were programmable.
The Filthypants blogspot posts shows how to make a USB-> RJ45 wire, and then the RJ-45 to the various consoles.
I just want to know if this USB->RJ45 is specific to Fight PCBs or whether it’s a generic USB->RJ5 adapter. The application MY ADAPTERS are used for is using Ethernet cables as cheaper longer USB cables. It preserves the function of the USB signal accurately. I just need to understand if the Filthypants USB->RJ45 adapter is specific for fight sticks or whether a generic one works. I bought mine on Ebay. I just don’t want to risk ruining the controller or the classic console if the ground or voltage is mapped to the wrong pin.
I’ll try Paradise Arcade shop today and see if they know a couple answers to questions, like how do I get the firmware on a Macintosh, and if a “Standard” USB->RJ45 works or if it’s specialized.
I hate to do this, but this is going on for way too long.
@gahrling, I would not waste you time.
I, and a few others been over the whole RJ45 thing over with this dude a few times.
He is just not getting it.
The guy is out to reinvent the wheel without taking any time to learn the subject first.
It bad enough that a few modders have already refuse to give him service, so now he trying to DIY it going by just assumptions and pretty much ignoring any advice given.
@trippletopper, my best advice for you, take a step back and start small. Make a basic 6 or 8 button stick first for the few consoles you want to play right away (and not every console ever). Once you get that under your belt and you built skill and confidence then expand on your stick or build another one.
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I’m not sure if I’m understanding you correctly.
Are you trying to get multi console support by running a cable between the Cthulhu’s USB jack and an RJ45 jack? Because if so then that will not work.
You can only achieve this by soldering wires to the 8 pin strip on the board in the correct order. This could either be hardwired console cables or a single RJ45 cable running to a modular jack where you would plug in custom made console cables.
The Filthypants schematics are fine, I’m looking at this page for reference:
Also please don’t use the term “Fight Stick” to describe anything other than the MadCatz range of products. The correct term is “arcade stick”.
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I admit I don’t know. That’s why I’m asking the questions.
Also, asking to not call everything arcade stick that is digital a fight stick is a lot like asking people not to call facial tissue a “kleenex”, because you my have a Puffs. This coming from a site that focuses on fighting games, and certain members question why’d you use it for anything EXCEPT fighting.
Most games before the N64 play better on a fight stick, (not capitalized, not a single word) except stuff that is arrangement-specific like the shoulder buttons on F Zero, or the 4-way buttons/twin sticks on Smash TV that doesn’t translate well on arcade sticks.
The reason why I thought it might work is because you CAN hook up a USB B Male to USB A Male and get it to work on a PS3 or a Pc or a Mac. I thought the solder-ons were alternatives because USB B Male-> RJ45 females were not common. And saw the buld-your-own USB to RJ45 in Filthypants’s diagram. All of wha I said I read in Filthypants’s article, so that was a logical question. I just didn’t know whether that was the same standard wiring used in USB range extenders, or whether it’s specific to fighting PCBs. I thought I could save a few bucks in labor, if it did work, and if people were unsure, I made sure it was safe before trying, but since it is known it doesn’t, never mind.
And Yes, Paradise Arcade Shop has the firmware built in.
Also, asking to not call everything arcade stick that is digital a fight stick is a lot like asking people not to call facial tissue a “kleenex”, because you my have a Puffs. This coming from a site that focuses on fighting games, and certain members question why’d you use it for anything EXCEPT fighting.
None of that makes any sense. This is a technical forum where the proper classification and product codes are very important, clear and precise details are imperative when troubleshooting or asking questions.
If you continue to use the nonsensical term ‘fight stick’ (sic) I will stop replying to you, it’s a personal bugbear of mine when people say that instead of ‘arcade stick’.
And yes… of course the MC Cthulhu has firmware built in, the question is which version? Unless it’s the last supported version then you will have to flash it yourself.
Just to clear up: the ones we sell have the most recent revision since we get the chips from Toodles directly. All the chips are new chips. They all work for retro consoles out of the box with the obvious exceptions of having to manually add RJ45 support. It wouldn’t make any sense for him to supply us with older revisions of the firmware on new chips and then have to flash the chips with a newer firmware.
All the stock for MC Cthulhu currently available is new and manufactured by us so the need to update the firmware to get retro console support is a step you can skip now a days.
We still support the MC Cthulhu. We could probably use a centralized location for all the console pinouts, but as you noted, it’s difficult getting that information since much of it has been lost to the SRK Forum Void. I’ll see about getting that information centralized since it’s still a requirement to make full use of the board.
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Thanks for the reply.
The last known firmware revision from Toodles (version 2.3.1) contained two firmware files - the 1ms version and the 10ms version. Which one is installed on the boards you sell?
To be fair, a lot of the relevant information was lost when Toodles’ website got erased as the posts are still available on SRK… just not the important linked files and images.
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Actually, I didn’t know there was a 1 ms and 10 ms version. I’ll have to ask him. Bryan’s pretty picky when it comes to board timings so I would assume he wanted the 1 ms version and hoping that’s what he arranged. I’ll look into it and report back.
Agreed, the photos with the pinouts were the important and most of those are gone. At least the actual written pinouts are still there, at least last time I checked. Instead of photos, I can make diagrams. I just need time for all this stuff, lol.
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Toodles wrote to he isn’t sure exactly which revision is on the chips. The 10 ms firmware was old, the firmware was updated to 1 ms and include Dreamcast support. To be 100% certain it’s best to do the upgrade to the most recent revision. I’ll host it on the site tomorrow for people who want it.
I apologize, I thought for sure it would be the most recent revision. I haven’t seen any complaints about the boards not supporting Dreamcast so I’m going to go out on a limb and say if it’s working with DC, then it’s 1 ms. But, again, update to be certain.
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Respect for the quick replies!
Yeah - as a general rule of thumb I always advise people to update the firmware themselves on any board purchased. Aside from anything else it’s good practice for customers to become familiar with the process.
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Aloha all…signed up seeking advice my my newly acquired MC Cthulhu PCB I bought from Paradise. Having an issue with the retro console feature of the device in which I just recently reached out to Paradise but wanted to ask here as well…here is what I sent:
“ I just had a chance to install my Toodles MC Cthulhu PCB and it works on my PS3 and PS4 as a legacy controller. It also works on my PC and HAS Supergun but I can’t seem to get it to work with my NES and SNES…havent tried my other consoles.
I can verify that the cables work since my other fightstick work with them.
They are the RJ45 style cables and I soldered a RJ45 cable connected to a neutrik cat5 connector
I searched and found a thread on forums.shoryuken
a user hosted, what appears to be the latest firmware, in which I tried all the different hex but it still doesn’t recognize my older consoles.
Do you happen to have the older versions of the firmware? Any suggestions for me to try?”
Any advice would be much appreciated…
Newest firmware is the most reliable one. Downgrading will not help as much.
As for the RJ45 cables, make sure you have all the proper pinouts.
Do not rely on wire colors, its the pin assignments that matter the most.
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Mahalo guys, assumed downgrading wouldn’t do much but getting a bit desperate and will try anything.
That link for the rj45 cables was on the Paradise site as well in which I followed…I’ll double check all my cables to make sure all is good.
I assumed they will work since they work with my other fightstick that is equipped with a Brooks UFB and Retro Board…cables work with the Retro Board active.
But def don’t want to assume and will triple check my connections.
Did you strip the wires before inserting them into the rj45 jack to be crimped? If you did that is what my problem was. All you have to do it cut the wires to length and crimp them down. I found out the hard way with a continuity meter, pulling my hair out, and half of my connectors in the trash from redoing them.
Make sure all you didnt bridge connections on the solder connections.
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Turns out it was my ethernet cable…resoldered a new one to the first row of the mc cthulhu and good to go.
Just wanted to update that this was redirected to:
Thank you all for the assistance…
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