That might be part of the issue, but if it is then that means the USB cable and the PCB aren’t soldered together correctly. If that part of the stick is weak then it’s only a matter of time before the connection fails completely.
I’m worried about the same thing, I have the same problem except all my buttons go out.
I also don’t wanna wait 2-3 weeks for the repairs when the stick is working for the most part. =(
I noticed on mine that there is a “bulge” within the wire at the quick disconnect area. The part I am talking about is where the contorller wire ends and is encased by the the quick disconnect module. Oh and this is on the controller-side wire so changing the xbox-side quick disconnect wire will not solve anything. Are you guys seeing that your wires look proper and not distorted in any way?
I was getting the RT/LT and stick not registering probs with my SE fightstick before and after replacing with sanwa parts. Unfortunately, it started getting worse (RT/LT mostly) as time went on and started happening much more frequently. i eventually rewired X/A to where RT/LT are so i can keep playing till i find a fix . I’ve been thinking of sending it in (if they’ll still take it), but if possible i’d rather fix it myself if a definite solution appears.
Biz
Just got my TE stick yesterday and noticed the GUIDE button doesn’t work most of the time (lights are always on) , but I never have issues with the TURBO button. The control panel is unlocked, I’ve tried switching it back and forth a few times. Anyone heard any thing like this?
I went with a new break away cable and have yet to have this issue again, but I had the RT kick out on me twice in 16 hours of play. I’m afraid to notify Madcatz now and rather wait till the last minute till they get a better idea of whats going on. Maybe I’ll get lucky and it will be the break away cable. Still upset that a $150 controller is having so much issues. I want to give Madcatz a chance but this is a lot of money wasted if I end up getting it fixed and a few months later the same thing happens again.
I’m having the same problems with my TE, mainly a RT button that dies randomly during play that is solved by disconnecting and reconnecting the USB. It also had a joystick that would occasionally make the character move in one direction while in neutral and it randomly disconnecting from the console when I haven’t touched the cord. The RT button dying happened enough where I just got fed up with it and sent it in for repairs.
They sent me an email saying that they’ll send another email with a prepaid shipping label, but I had to email them asking for one after 3 days had passed and they finally sent one.
When they did get my stick, I received a call from a worker who said that he couldn’t replicate my problem and asked me how long I play till the problem occurred. I told him I usually play an hour or two on average and he told me that he’ll leave it plugged in overnight and test it again later on. I think I received a call the next day or two saying that they did get the RT dying and joystick problem when playing as Guile in practice mode, but he didn’t sound confident that swapping out the PCB’s would fix the problem. I have no idea how to take that. I should be getting my stick back this Thursday and I’ll tell you if I still have these problems.
I’m not complaining about their customer service as it was a surprise getting 2 calls from them, but they seriously have to work on their quality control. I helped my friend swap out his buttons on his SE stick today and there were only 3 screws holding the joystick in place instead of 4. Talk about shortcuts…
The LT and RT buttons are special… something about analog being converted to digital… http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=6694424&postcount=2
I had the same issue.
I sent it to madcatz already. Please tell us how your stick works after.
This is why I haven’t sent my TE back. I’ve only had the problem happen once in the past two days – doesn’t seem to be worth waiting to have them not be able to replicate it.
Thanks for posting this stuff – you’ve helped me out alot in doing so.
Fucking horrible.
What is it costing everyone to ship it back? I haven’t had any problems with mine but you never know.
wow im sorry to hear that =( I have to agree, there is a lack of quality control on these sticks
I got my stick back on Thursday and managed to get a couple hours of play in. Seems like the RT button is working fine and I haven’t had a problem with the joystick sticking in one direction, but I did have that blasted please reconnect controller message come up in the 5 or so hours I’ve played. I honestly don’t know what is causing it. I’d test it out some more, but I have to concentrate on finals. Shakes fist at Madcatz
It’s free. Madcatz emails you a prepaid shipping label that you attach to the box when you ship it to them.
Did you have that disconnetion problem before madcatz fixed your stick?
I was having both RT button problem and disconnection probelm.
I was thinking these two problems were somehow related.
Now I’m guessing its either madcatz screws up many of their PCBs or it’s not a PCB issue since you already got your PCB replaced.
Yeah, I did have the disconnection problem before sending it in. It was one of the three issues I had with the stick that I mentioned to them. It happened only a handful of times whereas the RT button dying was my main gripe since it happened more often.
So is your RT problem fixed after sending it in. If it’s solved then i’m going to consider sending my stick in also. Any idea what they did to fix, did they switch out the whole pcb?
Well, I got another couple hours of play in, and guess what? RT button dies. Three times to be exact. :tdown:
My LT button randomly stops working in nearly every gaming session. Neither unplugging/plugging the USB cable nor restarting the console fixes it. If it “rests” a few hours (usually overnight) then, strangely enough, it will start working again until it just stops working that day.
This particular stick has already been back to Mad Catz warranty support since the right directional input was constantly registering despite the stick being in neutral position. My solution right now is to give up on Mad Catz and use my HRAP EX until I can find someone to really fix the TE. 