buy ZD or MC Cthulhu
If you only want it working on PS3 and PS2 then get the ZD Encoder. No soldering required and it’s dirt cheap.
MC Cthulhu works on loads more stuff but soldering is kinda unblockable.
thanks for your answer!
This looks like a cheap quick fix for one of my sticks I have laying around. Mainly use it on pc for emulators, ps2 for classic games. But I recently bought a dc, and.will.want.to play on that too. I know drone said it lags bad with a 360 adapter but has anyone tried a ps2 to dc adapter? I already will be working on a stick that I’m adding a ps360+ so ill be able to use it on dc but if this works I can have a secondary stick.
Thanks
An MC Cthulu would be a better solution except for the fact that it lacks a DC VMU port. The VMU solution for the MC Cthulu is to buy the Saturn-to-DC OR PS2-to-DC converters (Total Control brand name) that have VMU plug-in ports. The MC Cthulu works fine with cable converters. It’s proven very compatible with converters for the PS2 and DC thus far. (You still need to have the appropriately RJ45-modded system controller cables that actually plug into those cable converters, though!)
Otherwise, the MC Cthulu works like a charm with the DC straightaway (with an RJ45-modded DC controller cable). You just have to a native DC control pad (plugged in secondary or as primary controller depending on your comfort playing from Left or Right side) to read the VMU data or save data to the VMU. The lack of a VMU port on the MC Cthulu is one of the PCB’s few weak points but it’s such an easy issue to resolve…
Lately, there has not been a “good vibe” regarding the PS360+ and retro-console capability. It’s had issues with the PS3 backwards compatibility with some PS2 games I believe. Other people have been encountering issues with the PS2 itself. There’s a whole thread about this elsewhere and I’m regurgitating more than I want to right now. ****I don’t think the emphasis on that PCB was ever as much on retro-console compatibility as it was PS3 and 360 dual-compatibility. Thread here => Akishop PS360+ & the PlayStation 2
People are maybe expecting too much from the PS360+
You’re going to have to solder with the “surer routes” to retro-console compatibility like it or not. That means getting the appropriate DC, PS2, or MC Cthulu PCB’s for a controller.
I know somebody else did an MC Cthulu mod with some kind of (header?) pin to avoid the soldering issue. I contacted an electronics company once about those pins and they assured me that soldering was more secure and stable over time. IE, I was told to save my money and solder the points I had to. (Talk about honest company reps!)
I guess I should read up more on the ps360+ since I want to use it on dc and ps2. Soldering isn’t a issue. I can dual mod things the old fashioned way but if there is something that saves me time and space I’m all for it.
Does anyone know if ZDs have SOCD cleaning?
Assembled MC Cthulhus come with screw terminals so no soldering is required.
Just to add in on the Cthulhu vs ZD Rematch plus. I have been using the ZD rematch for over a year now. It works with all of tototeks PS2 to whatever consoles (in which I have tested- Genesis/Atari 2600, TG16, Saturn, and SNES), along with total control 2+3 on Dreamcast, and a generic PS2 to Original XBOX and gamecube (D pad only but works with wii). There are more functions on the board and it was way easier to set up. The tototek adapters do have weird button mappings on a standard controller layout (I moved my buttons around to override this). The only problem I have had so far is that some of the buttons disconnect sometimes. However I am not sure if its the boards fault, or if its the crappy wires included with it,or if it is because my board is not secured very well in my custom stick (did not have enough room). I am about to look into this some more. Other than that it does what its supposed to do.
I just installed a MC Cthulhu into a TE stick I own. The set up is more difficult, but it is not too hard. I personally just had one of those days where nothing works out properly no matter how easy it should be. You may have to solder if you want to use RJ45 jacks, as I am unsure if toodles sells the USB swapped with the RJ45. I gotta say I really hate the screw down clamps. I had a really hard time getting them to grip the wires properly I bought from focus attack. However the board does seem to be of higher quality, and the updating of firmware along with having extra built in functions like Super Smash Bros. capability. The extra wires can be cheaper than all the tototek adapters but only if you A) have donor controllers and B) are hands on C) have all the tools to make said wires. The RJ45 can be pretty finnicky if you do not buy a simple 2 piece plug (will not make that mistake again). The initial cost to set up a MC Cthulhu was a decent amount more expensive for my intended usage.
In the long run the MC Cthulhu can be cheaper if you make all your cables and you have a lot of systems like me, but the ZD rematch will be cheaper if you only want to buy a couple of adapters. If you have to buy all the controllers and adapters then the cost will be about the same. The ZD rematch has a huge advantage for me because of the easy genesis support (I have to look into how to pad hack a genesis controller for the Cthulhu), and I am a huge genesis fan. The ZD rematch is way easier to hook up in my opinion. The buttons disconnecting may be a huge turn off it does turn out to be a serious problem. I honestly just think its the wires though because to fix the disconnection I just have to play with the positioning of the disconnect (I may just solder the damn things on) and it will work again, and its the same couple of buttons that give me problems. In which I have to give another positive to the MC Cthulhu for it being easier to hook up any wire and Quick Disconnect you want ( in which I really like focus attacks because they are super easy to pull off).
where Home button ps3?
http://img03.taobaocdn.com/imgextra/i3/1696223986/T2hyX7XvFXXXXXXXXX_!!1696223986.jpg
IIRC, ‘mode’
[/img]
how connect Home button ps3 to ZD, which is located on the panel qanba?
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/19964206/SAM_0422.jpg
Solder.
1-ps, 2-gnd. right?
I’m not sure what you mean.
zd out mode of 2 wires, solder to 1-ps 2-gnd on qanba panel. right?
I don’t know as I haven’t needed to hack a Qanba daughter board before. Logic dictates that it should be ‘PS’, but these companies don’t always follow logic so it could be ‘MODE’ or ‘SWITCH’.
My advice is to use a multimeter to verify the signal.
Bought the USB/PS3/PS2 version for my cabinet, works great on the PC and PS2. I did have to do some wire swapping in order to get the joystick directions correct, but it was a simple fix- worth it for the low price. I have another on order for my P2 spot (which currently uses a PSX padhack) due to the issues with the PSX to USB converter I have. Highly recommended if you only want/need PC/PS3/PS2 compatibility.
Edit: wrong thread
So I’m browsing eBay and correct me if I’m wrong, the rematch boards are the green boards and the predecessor is the beige-coloured board? I don’t see any of the listings indicating whether or not they are the ZD Rematch or not.
What about the green boards with the orange plastic slots?