Corrected the above, I had the colours thew wrong way round.
Hmmm, I hear you, but i’d love to confirm that before splashing out. How did you test whether it was D-pad, if I may ask? For the original ZD the mode with the red LED lit is digital input, but on PS3 digital input (D-pad) is the green LED. It defaults to red LED when plugged into either.
If the ZDRematch doesn’t work the thing will be pretty much useless to me. Thanks for taking the time though 
I don’t have any ZD board right now to take some video of it… but let me ask to a friend who has one fightstick that I built a few months ago with one ZD.
Just out of curiosity would this work on PS4 games that let you use PS3 controllers, or do those games require actual PS3 controllers whereas to my knowledge this worked on PS3 as a generic USB controller?
I don’t think so, but I haven’t tested either.
It would depend if the ZD board emulate a Dual Shock 3 or not.
Part of Sony’s requirement of the drivers Zero labs came up with is they can not support the Sony Dual Shock 3.
I could test this if I had a game that supported the driver, I’m not into MK though.
I think the designer of it said ITT that it just uses generic USB drivers so no downloaded drivers are needed, so I think that’s out the window.
So did Every 3rd party PS3 controller and every PCB made for the FGC.
I am speculating that the ZD PCB could have same issue as the PS360+ as the system still IDs the controller as a Dual Shock 3.
The PS360+ was one of the PCBs that the Zero Labs USB drivers had compatibility issues with.
See different unofficial PCB makers to maintain compatibility have their PCB emulate a existing commercial product
The Cthulhu acts as if it was a Hori Hrap 3, unless its put into VSHG mode when it mimics a Sega VSGH.
The PS360+ PS3 mode supposedly to mimic a Dual Shock 3 while its in wired mode.
The question I was wondering what Controller the ZD PCB is trying to mimic. If it mimics a Dual Shock 3, then it would not work with the Zero labs USB drivers.
The zd comes up as a generic hid device in Windows.
Every PS3 wired controller is a PC HID class device with generic drivers.
That has no bearing on what I am trying to say.
I don’t own a PS3, so I was unaware of this.
Just sayin’ …
The TORII fightsticks have zero delay PCB variants in them!!
Here’s the (rebranded as) torii PCB :
https://www.focusattack.com/product_images/b/998/torii_pcb_spec__67479__49256.jpg
Here’s the** zero delay style** PC PS3 XBOX360 compatible, chinese made PCB ( it existed BEFORE the torii was on the market, I mentioned it earlier on this thread as well, sold on alibaba and similar crap sites ), pic is from Istmall website :
Istmall dot co dot kr sells these chinese PCBs but for a relatively high price : 45 USD , which is around 2 to 3.5 times more expensive than a “pc-ps2-ps3 zerodelay” .
Obviously the same companies who produces the ZD also make the PC-PS3-XBOX360 pcb , all the models were available on aliexpress & alibaba until not long ago, now only ZD (1st, 2nd and led versions) , ZD style pc-xbox360 are to be found on these wholesale sites, along with xin-mo and others. for ps3 and xbox360 compatibility at once , today it seems only available on the korean web store, perhaps they bought the whole stock of PCBs along with the people who make the torii sticks.
Not to double post, but here I took one of my ZeroDelay (aka ZD) PCB second generation (called “rematch” by some) out of my cab and tested it for commons.
It’s the “ps3-ps2-pc joystick” labeled encoder (the marking on the bottom side).White connector and red , if both second generation ZD are the same and have same pinout (and mislabeled harness see below).
Surprise : there are not 2 commons as claimed by the dude who rebranded the PCBs “rematch” as if they were custom made for him (which is not the case, he had his version rebranded with markings, that’s all) …but 3 commons!!
Looking at the back of the PCB ( no connectors) , 4 PCB markings are clearly mislabeled: the 5 pin joystick harness “Up” is in fact a common … What a serious mistake !!
Again with the harness labels, (completely fucked up ) , don’t pay attention to them, since “DN” is in fact linked to the the lead of individual connector labeled “Up” , harness “RI” is linked to the lead of “DOWN” , harness “A-L” (supposedly a common) is connected to the lead of “RIGHT”.
Harness “LE” is th only correct label since linked to individual connector lead of “LEFT”.
…but the labels on the diagram are correct ! (such as the one below)
Last minute edit: the lead of individual connector “Right” from section 5 on the diagram is indeed not linked to lead of connector “Right” from section 7 , the latter being the real “right” since linked to the lever harness as explained just above. In fact “Right” from section 5 would be the missing “R4” (the gaming buttons are R1,R2,R3,K1,K2,K3,K4,L1 & L2).
I double checked, you can trust my modified diagram ( a 5yo kid could test commons, odd that it is not mentioned anywhere in the official pinout diagram on ebay) on which I indicate commons in three different colors :
I’m looking into buying one of these as they seem to be great value, but I’ve noticed there are a bunch that seem slightly different from each other on ebay.
I’ve noticed that there’s this one with the green board/white connectors which supposedly works with PC/PS2/PS3
and this greenboard/red connectors, this one is the one with the home button support if I followed the thread correctly and this one also apparently supports PC/PS2/PS3
This yellow/beigeboard with white connectors which according to this seller and another seller this does NOT work with ps3 even though it seems like the same one as in the OP’s post, can anyone confirm/give insight on this one?
From my understanding the the one with the red connectors is the superior board, does anyone know the difference between that and the one in the first link? They seem pretty similar. Also, can someone confirm if they have any idea about the third one working on PS3? Any recommendations for which one to pick up for PS3 play would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
From what I’ve been told, the cheaper one works with ps3, but has no home button. I only have experience with the ps2/ps3/pc model personally.
I have a couple of the yellow ones and they do work for PS3. I’ve not found a home button feature on one however.
I have (and have been using on USF4 steam actually) the non PS2 variation, the yellow board… and just to confirm, yup, it doesn’t support the PS3’s home button, But it works on the console flawlessly aside from that.
Has anybody tried to play USFIV on PS4 with one of these?
I intended on it, but I found out that the port was bad before I got home from work and bought it. I’ll test it when the port is thoroughly patched.