I don’t have anything on Steam, otherwise I would test it for you.
Yeah you can’t really mix up the ps2 and ps3. The ps2 has like 8 pins and the usb only has about 5. I’m connecting them one at a time.
I’ve pressed the button, I’ve held the button, I’ve swapped the controller between p1 and p2 ports. The only thing I haven’t done yet is actually let a game a boot try that. I’ll give it a shot.
Edit: Also, this sucks because there are so many ZD pcbs out there with different layouts yet they mostly all do the same thing. Just laid out in different order.
I specified that because someone else here recently was plugging into the ps2 usb port and the ps2 controller port simultaneously.
No problem. I actually read the thread and most likely would have been guilty of that myself had I not lol.
Yes, it was I who did it, because only in this way worked on the PS2 if I disconnect the USB cable, not works in psx, only in PC
Someone should take a voltage reading on the board when plugged into a PS2 and check that it has the proper voltage on the I/O… perhaps they’ve tried to avoid people destroying the boards by basically making the 3.3v connection benign (requiring you to actually use the USB plug to power the board)? That seems dumb, but I’ve never actually used one to offer any feedback.
@Phreakazoid
No, that isn’t the case unless they’ve just changed it. I’ve had two of them and have never had to do that. I’ve still got one in a flip top diy case, I’m assuming I would just probe vcc while grounding away from the pcb? Apologies for the noob-ish question, the extent of my voltage probing has just been finding power for dual mods- always worried about frying the board by making the board’s ground contact vcc.
any problem using 2 of these at once? I don’t wan the p1 and p2 randomly switching around or whatever…
using it for pc btw.
I used two in my cabinet before switching to project boxes. Just plug them in after the computer is on, one at a time.
well I get that part but trying to see if there would be any issue every time I shut down/power on the computer. anyone has any other info? unless they are “IDed” when installed first time and thats how it stays then that will work.
So I figured out half my problem. Got the stick working perfectly on my Windows 8 machine, turns out there was still the taint of Motionjoy left on it that hadn’t been removed by the exorcism. It runs perfectly on the Window 8 machine now. Still having the same problem with the Windows 7 computer, works perfectly until I try and stream a game on Steam, then nothing.
Maybe is not completely related to your concern but this happens to me yesterday.
I have 2 different boards of these: one is the ZD PS2/PS3/Pc and the other is the ZD Pc. The one that works only for pc doesn’t works in 64-bit OS, so this board was in a box for about 3 months, the other works just like a plug-n-play in pc, no matter what architecture your OS is, and of course, it works with PS2/PS3.
Well, I build a fightstick for a friend for PS3 and I used that ZD board for it, and when I went to test it in my pc (remember, this is the plug-n-play one) it doesn’t works at all, it suddenly stop to appears in the Device Manager, I checked everything, the blue led was on, I switched from usb ports in my pc, switched the usb cable, I rewire all and still nothing.
Then I picked the other board, the one that doesn’t works in 64-bit, but something weird happens… this board starts to work like a charm, no mapping no nothing, just another plug-n-play. This makes me crazy for a few minutes, I played a few matches in USF IV and everything works flawlessly.
But since this fightstick is supposed to be for PS3, I plug it in and tried to play with it… and well, it works too… the weird thing here is this board is supposed to only work with Pc and at first, it didn’t work with 64-bit OS!
And even when both boards have the MODE header, I found that only the one compatible with PS3 has the Home function in this button when is used with a PS3 and the Pc only board doesn’t do anything with that button when is used with a PS3, but in Pc it switch the stick from Digital to Analog mode, it turns on the red and green led respectively.
Now, with a face full of disbelief, I rewire everything with the ZD PS3 board and tried straight with the PS3 and… it doesn’t works… tried again with my pc, same results… tried with my sister’s laptop (which has 32-bit OS) and it works… plug both boards in PS3, my pc and the laptop and the only board working was the one for Pc only… I still can’t believe this happens, it seems like somehow the drivers were switched from the boards, but how and when? My pc has 7 Ultimate 64-bit and the laptop has the 32-bit version of the same OS.
I will run another test today with another wip fightstick to see if I can replicate the issue and take a video of it, but just in case, if you have the ZD Pc only board, chances are that you could use it in PS3, just remember, with this board there is no Home button even when you have a proper Home button wired to the header of the board.
All that lol :wtf:
I bought a PC/PS2/3 board and I’m having trouble with the 5 pin harness. No matter which what I connect it to the joystick I get either 1 direction that will register or 3 - and neither in the right position. I thought maybe it was because I was using a seimitsu lever but a tried a JLF with basically the same results. Am I doing something wrong here?
Rotate the pcb or re arrange the wires so that the directions are correct.
Even when I rotate the joystick so the directions that do work are correct, one doesn’t register (in this case, Right)
if 1 direction isnt registering then its defective. get it replaced it I guess.
I tested using an LS-32-02 in the different hookup area and Right didn’t register with that either 
Do you have a multimeter? If so, I’d check continuity between each of the wires in the harness. If you have a stick that uses .187" connections (or even just some .187" switches lying around), I’d try that also, curious as to whether or not that direction will work using the other method.
I can get one from a friend later to test, but as to the second part that’s what I was talking about in my last post - the LS-32-02 uses switches like that instead of the 5pin harness and Right also failed to register using that setup.