Does the internet come back as soon as you unplug, or do you lose home internet if its plugged into any usb?
No they didntā¦ I was half tempted to try removing the board that I assume is the wireless controller (based solely on the small āantennaā looking connection stemming off the board, that doesnāt have any wires connected to it oddly enough) but didnt want to until I tested it first.
might try tonight just because 
Because as kleners and the images of the top boards show - you can send power to the bottom board using the socket pins. And there doesnāt seem to be anything on the top board that requires power? As in that there is no chip, it just looks like only the bottom board requires VCC.
Iām sorry simple question. Where do you wire the usb cord to? Or in other words where is the Power, Ground and data lines located?
looks like you can leave the existing 5 pin intact on the bottom pcb
I wonder if its because of where I soldered the d-/d+ at. Anyone want to try soldering them to TP1 (d-) and TP2 (d+). its on the back of the bottom board. Either there or at the board connector pins.
other than the base of the micro usb connector (thatās one hell of a tight spot) and where you mentioned (pins/TP 1/2) I donāt see where else you would have soldered themā¦ didnt poke around enough with my multimeter I suppose
Donāt know how on earth you guys can solder to those pins. Theyāre so freaking close together lol.
Is there a TP for vcc?
Thereās not much advantage soldering to those pins.
A good spot to tap into vcc is to solder to the right side of capacitor C2. Its near the usb jack.
There should be more information in here. Taking the controller apart requires two sizes of torq screwdrivers
so wiring up the data lines at the pin connecter or TP1/TP2 spots bypasses 33 ohm resistors on the data lines. This is what was causing the wireless internet to disconnect. I donāt know why, but it is. So either use a micro usb cable connected to the jack or add a 33ohm resistor to the TP1/TP2 spots.
the ones holding the controller housing together are security torx as well
I have the T10 and was able to remove those, but the insides are held together by a smaller one, looks like a T5. I donāt have that tool and was going to allocate time today to start the pad hack. Guess I have to try to get a hold of the tool and do it tomorrow.
I was able to remove them all with a tiny watch flat head
I just started working on this a few minutes ago. This is my first time messing around with pad hacking. I was able to remove the smaller screws by taking a small flat hear and grinding it to fit just tight inside the screw heads. Lesson learned though, went to amazon and picked up a full set of drivers for these screws.
I want to thank everyone that has come together and worked on this thread, you guys are very generous and helpful by not only sharing the info, but guiding the not so knowledgeable along the way.
Got the pad taken apart already and all the contacts scratched up. No problems so far. Iāll be doing most of the soldering tomorrow (need to pick up some flux, and wires).
Thanks again guys.
I am jumping on this when I get back from my travels.
What is the preferred wire gage AWG?
Is flux required?
Which solder to use?
Canāt wait to do this!!
- This is your own personal preference. I like 28AWG but that might be too thin for some.
- Yes if you want it to wet/stick easier. Takes less heat and better results overall
- I just use normal 60/40 rosin core. Some folks have a preference but it works for me
So I got everything wired up (went to pin outs for Y and A cos I messed up the pads during tinning).
I just did some testing before proceeding and every single input works except for Up which is shorting out (up is constantly pressed).
I unsoldered the connection and its still shorting out.
I know this is probably a rookie mistake somewhere, just hoping I havnt destoyrd anything 
Anyone got any advice on what it might be, where to look, what to do? I do have a multimeter but donāt know how to read it/use it.
Thanks in advance for any help
Guys I messed up. I may have destroyed the connection where you take the ground and RB connection while removing the RB. The other side went ok. What options do I have here?
Found the issue with my up problem, itās the analog nub shorting out. I had removed the green clips and the metal rings that sit inside them had fallen out.
Is there a way to disable the analog without removing the ācubeā? I donāt have a pump to remove the solder