A bit confused here - you’re saying it doesn’t work but Kleners is saying it does. Any clarity on this?
Other than the pinouts, does anyone know of another spot for the usb cable (power, data, gnd)?
I’m thinking I can just solder all the signals to the existing 360 hori pcb to piggyback but have a switch control which pcb the usb cables go to. That way if its set to xbone pcb the signals should flow through the hori pcb and go to the buttons right (I have pretty much zero knowledge of how pcbs work lol)?
Appreciated 
This was theory like gummo. I was going to test one. They must have a resistor of something on the top board.
How do you have KI sticks? I thought they have not been released yet?
No they were released lots of gamestop preorders are in. Almost all online got delayed
how can it? there are buttons on both and the power comes from the top board, it CANT work without both.
There is a VERY DIFFICULT part that no one has talked about really yet. I did my pad hack on a custom stick and then last night i moved it over to my Mad Catz TE SFIV stick but, if you look at the PCB images, you can see the black outlines on the circuit boards where the buttons are. You need to use a razor blade to gently scrape off the black stuff and expose the copper underneath to solder to it, and you have to use much flux! This is a HUGE step and makes it much more difficult than a simple soldering mod. You must be careful not to cut the trace, and you have to have some experience to make the wire stick to the board. I STRONGLY recommend using a glue gun to put over the solder points once you get them on to help secure them.
Great work guys!
You are right dmal99. I will say the xbone PCB’s are garbage. I have 2 I put into there own fightsticks, one dual modded with imp board for 360.
BUT I have 2 in the trash. Just failure of boards to hold up to modding. Sucks right now with the high cost. Not bad later when you can get them used for $20.
As for dual mod, we tried putting a switch on the data+- but neither console worked. We tried a switch on VCC power, xbone perfect 360 wouldn’t sync. So had to use an IMP board
Very helpful info, thank you. I think I’ll just stick with separate usb cable so I don’t mess with my current setup.
The PCBs themselves are not garbage, nor are they difficult to work with… They are not much different than doing any other padhack sans the triggers. Lifting pads/cut traces are common if you aren’t careful…and even if it does happen you can almost always fix it or find another spot. If you burn a resister or something, well you might be screwed there.
I do remember darksakul mentioning something about “softmodders”
We all start somewhere though so this will be good to teach folks some of the basics.
You can follow the trace. I would suggest not scraping the end of the trace where you already pulled up the copper but instead go to the middle of a trace and expose some copper. This way the trace wont want to pull up so easily.
anyone with a xbone padhacked stick have issues with the wireless internet connection going bad?
As in home network? I’m playing online with wireless right now. No issues
MS must be on to Gummo and his hacking shenanigans… They pointed their internet cannon at his house
Yeah the home network. For some reason the wireless internet connection keeps getting disconnected. Issue has been repeatable with other modded sticks. I’m trying to isolate whats causing the issue, but it makes no sense that a padhack could cause this.
Did it happen on both your dual mods and standalones? That is REALLY a strange side effect.
both.
Hey guys, I’m hyped to see you all have made huge progress on figuring this out! My question is I have an Xbox 360 Madcatz VS stick, with a TE Kitty, Remora, and ArcEYE 3’s inside of it. Do any of you know if it would be possible to put an Xbox One pad into my stick? I’m not afraid of soldering since I’ve done my last few MadCatz sticks myself, but I mainly just wanna know if it can be done. Thanks!
Are you getting interference from the wireless in the controller boards (MS didn’t move to BT for the xbone)? or did you remove it and do USB only?
So what’s the trick with the triggers? Also what’s all this talk about cutting traces when you can solder to the headers directly?