Because I smoke crack apparently. I’m bouncing between so many threads. I figured to keep the simplicity at first and to try out having a detachable cord.
Then I was checking last night on threads for possible positions for the rj45 and there really aren’t that many. So I may go with keeping the 1 wire.
Any suggestions on the types of switches that could work? A dpdt rocker switch mounted inside the cable compartment? http://www.radioshack.com/dpdt-rocker-switch-red/2750695.html#.VSUe2eFt8zQ
And in the event I go that route, then I would be cutting… looking messy in my head.
Sorry. Not sure what the optimal method is. I know the vcc and gnd needs to come from the external usb and be bridged to both. But not sure if better to cut the usb wire from the 360 pad and splice the vcc gnd to both pads, or just cut the d+ and d- and run that to the dpdt.
I have extra micro usb wires so I dont have an issue butchering those up.
That switch is good. circles are always easier to cut than squares, just make sure it’s not super Wide ( it would make things harder.)
Ok so this is basically how I dual mod. After or before joining all the corresponding signal button wires to their respective points…
PRIMARY PCB
I snip the D+ and D- on the original USB wire right where it connects to the pcb (preferably desolder).
Then I solder 2 new wires from those 2 points all the way to where the switch will be.
Then I splice 2 wires to the 2 wires I desoldered from the PCB (D+ D-) and also have them go all the way to the switch (these will be your return/OUT wires).
SECONDARY PCB
From the secondary PCB , a also extend the D+ D- all the way to the switch (might have to splice wire to make it longer)
I extend the Vcc and Ground to the primary PCB and solder them to their respective points.
I hope this all makes sense. I also drew this up to make it a little more visual. It looks messy but if you make your wires the right length you can always ziptie everything into a nice little bundle when you are done. And this way you have a nearly intact original USB cable if you ever decide to go back to a single PCB, since you did not butcher the original cable you would only have to cut the spliced D+ D- and solder them back to the PCB.
ok, thats exactly what I was picturing in my head.
The wife got me a dremel for xmas and have nothing to use it on yet, so was looking for some excuse, kind of the reason behind the rj45 method, just some variety.
Note: wow. Just realized I didnt hit Post on this, 7 hours ago.
Ok, found a teeeny dpdt at work.
Saw an old HD video conference camera in the back room, on the floor, broken.
Pulled it apart and theres were 2 switches, only can handle 3 settings and one with 2.
Preparing for this weekend.
Ive seen sometimes Diodes used. when would those be utilized?
I just wanna say thanks to everyone who put this thread together.
I was able to convert my SE from 360 to xbox one. The soldering points weren’t to bad, did have a few that took some time.
For anyone doing this make sure your home lock button is unlocked before testing the guide button (Duh). Took me awhile to figure out that was my problem…
You could have soldered to the bottom of the button distro board where the buttons are already soldered on and it would have made your life easier and neater, just a tip for the future.
It’ll still be powered, cutting that trace just breaks the system enough to disable the wireless comms.
Also, I’m pretty positive once it times out from the initial attempt at linking to the system via wireless, it just shuts the radio off… so it’s not technically a continuing thing.
There are ways to cut the power, but there’s no guarantee that it’ll even work on the system anymore since that little board appears to carry the security system.
Just cut the antenna and be done with it. whatever you’re trying to do will just ruin the pad. You’re not going to get any better results than cutting the wireless because it stops syncing after like 10 seconds anyway.
Phreakazoid, Vicko, thanks!
When not modded controller is connected through usb cable (without batteries), its wifi stops after few seconds automatically?
And radio emitter stays turned off until usb cable will be disconnected and connected again?
Hello, all. I’m in the middle of trying to hack an XBox One pad for my brother, but the triggers won’t stop registering. We don’t need 'em. He’s okay with only six buttons. I’ve ruined super small points where you’re supposed to solder the wires to and I have pics.
I took off those two, rubbery black rectangles from the PCB as well. Not sure if I needed them.
Using a diagram of the PCB(s), could someone show me where I could possibly cut the signal to the triggers altogether with an X-ACTO. Again, we don’t need 'em.
Hiya, beginner here needing bit of help. Ive managed to remove the bumpers where im supposed to solder for LT (turns out I had a 22ohm resistor not a 100ohm hence I tried resoldering it 400 times). I have RT working ok but now without these contacts on LT im not sure how to wire up a button.
Can I somehow use one the via I circled to wire up? someone else mentioned connecting the via to the top right pin of U11 however im not sure how the resistor or button is supposed to wire in with that.
If anyone could detail how to do it would be greatly appreciated.
