Just connect a Micro USB cable to the XB1 PCB’s Micro USB jack.
The Resistors are only needed if you don’t use the USB jack.
I found things work the best when you adjust/mod as little of the original PCB as possible, as there less things that can go wrong.
It is why Gummo recommends not removing the analog stick blocks from the PCB. To just immobilize them instead with some hot glue.
Also if you are using a DPTD switch (or even a v2 imp board) you need to cut off your ends of your USB cable any ways.
So having all your Micro USB cables under 5 ft is a non-issue.
That question kinda vague. There dozens of techniques depending on what you are wiring up.
If you are referring to Dual Modding you really need to refer to the Dual Modding 101 thread
I recommend anyone who never did this kind of mod before to read though that thread before even thinking about pad-hacking a PS4 or Xbox One game pad.
Careful what RJ45 to USB cord you get, the RJ45 to USB cord meant for the PS360+ would be your best bet,
The RJ45 to USB adapter for cord extensions is not what you need.
Sorry, by wiring I meant the usb cord.
I have experience doing 360 mod chips and have successfully done some trace repairs, 0603 LEDs.
The work itself doesnt intimidate me, I just have difficulty expressing my thoughts and knowing where I want to go.
As of now, I definitely don’t want a micro usb into the pad and coming out to get to the system.
I have some rj45 ends and can borrow a crimper from a friend.
I wasn’t sure max length, 10-15 ft of cat6, and then crimp an rj45 on one and then splice into a USB A male maybe?
Or easier to let the pads micro hang out and get something like a male-a/female-a extender?
I like how durable the neutriks work, but again not sure the rules/limitations on making the usb/rj45 cable.
can somebody tell me if its possible to use the switch on the te2/qanba4 that toggles the consoles to eliminate the dpdt switch for a dual mod? Im not using the ps3 function.
Still only up to page 10 so far. Is there a less destructive method? Like soldering to the pin outs that the top board connects to?
In the event for whatever reason i decide I want to go back to using it as a regular pad?
Ive had analogs go bad on me in a 360 controller, where new analogs didnt help.
I just feel semi guilty butchering a brand new pad as opposed to beating up a used one.
I see the crossbone, but then thats more cost which I’d like to minimize if possible.
Thanks Darksakul. I just couldnt wrap my ahead around it properly. I got rj45 tips laying around but never bothered to get a crimper. So Ill order one of those and the Neutrik connector. Then I can just take a micro usb wire and chop the A end and crimp an rj45, and do for another usb chop the B and crimp and rj45 and I’m golden, correct?
Looks like mouse left/right click switches for the buttons. I wonder how the dpad is.
Hows the controller feel? I’m in the process of procuring parts to do my first X1 stick, but was debating a pad to have in general for those times I don’t want to hook up a stick.
And my wife decides she wants to get into gaming now and a stick may be too much for her. Or rather if she has the stick, I’ll need something else.
Also is there a connector like crossbone just for the top board, so I can make a bootleg breadboard to pop in?
I want to minimize damage to the pad in the event I want to revert to a regular controller. I dont like the scratching up and destroying the dpad area.
Feels great, d pad is very responsive… similar to the xbox one controller but not “clicky” though its raised up a bit more with feels a little better under your thumb
On a side note it looks like my original Xb1 controller’s dpad is just not good. I was struggling to do Endokukens in KI.
The new controller I ordered to padhack with, not a problem. Rolling the dpad, I hear and feel a loud click on all angles. the first one only made much notice pressing up.
So I might pass on the Fightpad if this is tolerable. 1 xb1 controller and a fight stick.
As I read on, I’m more inclined to try to dual mod my TE1 stick vs having a single controller.
So from what I’ve read so far I can solder the xb1 pads signals to terminal strip on the TE pcb?
Then the dual mod rule is the bridge vcc and gnd. My question is if both had common ground, is that already achieved? And then I just take a piece of wire and bridge the VCC to both?
For the cabling I figure I would leave the 360s intact as it has its little storage area. I ordered a switchcraft rj45 passthrough and will crimp a micro to rj45 and rj45 to A.
Does this satisfy all the requirements?
Oh before I crimp , if I follow the guide and jack I use is a pass through, then I would need to invert the micro to jack, correct?
So Jack to console, 1= GND, 5=D-, 6=D+, 8=VCC
Pad to jack would be, 1= VCC, 3=D+, 4=D-, 8=GND
