Might want to double check which trace was cut. I’ve never been able to sync wirelessly after cutting that trace, and I always cut it when I mod for XB1.
I’m not near the stick right now to post pics of it. I’ll just post a list of points:
-It’s a 360 Chun-Li TE
-Used Imp V2 as Guide button as console switch
-All buttons were working on XB1, but directions were stuck on up, though other directions worked, too
-Made sure all wires on directions on XB1 pad were only touching the signal and not touching the surrounding ground
-Had no problems on 360
-Wired triggers using 100 Ohm resistor to hall sensor
Someone in this thread mentioned something about using a pullup resistor to fix the holding of up direction.
Hello all, just wanted to thank everyone here for creating this thread, I followed the instructions to mod a PS3 Madcatz Street Fighter SE that I bought off a friend to get a cheap 2nd stick for my X1. I kept to a 2 USB setup and just cut a 2nd hole in the case. This is my first time trying something like this, so I really appreciate how much effort you guys have put in here and how detailed your instructions have been, particularly when a crisis came up: my view/select contact point broke right off with the wire, I had to use the trace method instead. Then THAT broke off to, so used the tiny solder point, which luckily held this time. If I do this again, I’ll be getting flux for sure as I had a really hard time with a lot of it.
I had it connected to the top solder point by D14 like in this picture but now I need to know how I’d best go about managing to fix this mess without buying anything else. Thanks for the help in advance.
Scrape the trace and solder to that. It will be even more difficult now than a pad.
Make sure the wire is tinned, don’t hold the iron on the board too long, test the signal carefully without ripping off the trace before gluing, don’t glue over your solder point but on the wire next to the solder point.
No. That hole is your LAST OPTION. Use the trace (the actual line from where the signal goes from point A to point B ). Look up what a trace is and how to scrape a trace (scratching off the coating with an exacto knife carefully to expose the copper). You can then try to solder to the trace itself. If you succeed then glue down the wire NEXT to the solder point so the wire won’t lift. If you mess it up, you can try to solder to the thru hole you put an arrow on, but it would be difficult.
Honestly, I suggest you just take it to someone who knows what they’re doing. As much as you want to do it yourself, if you mess up this button your entire pad is screwed. Good luck again.
Take this advice from someone who enjoys padhacking and has no issue with padhacking this pad-
Unfortunately I don’t have the option of having someone else do it for me, is there any way you guys could just mark off where the nearest trace I should connect it to is located? I looked up how you do it and it seems easily doable if I knew where to connect the trace to.