Hey guys, I recently purchased a Crossbone and an X1 PCB for my PS360+ Hit Box. Ends up the pots on the X1 PCB are bad. Is there any guide/instructions for removal of the pots? From what I understood I also need to solder some resistors. What do you suggest?
Read the whole thread. This has been already covered.
If anyone needs to replace their top xb1 pad pcb because they messed up then contact me! I have copious amounts of them now that the crossbone is out.
Will sell them for dirt cheap.
Ground issue. I feel asthough im missising something here. Followed first page tuts. Put 2 grounds off lb. one for the buttons and one for the stick. After that failed i tried multiple different things includeing having one ground off LB and one off the d pad. Simple hack to micro usb. What am i missing? Am i suppose to wire di
Usb direct? If so where is 5v
Also just wired up for 6 button KISS
H=
use a USB cable if youāre not using crossbone
both PCBs MUST have power
out of curiosity, what are SW1 and SW3 (the switches installed at a right angle to the PCB)?
Alright guys, Iām trying to achieve this.

Is there a way to make the guide button functional while solely using the X1 pcb? Or do I have to replace my back/select button in order to do this?
Why solely?
Does a padhack have a cable length limitation, or is that strictly a crossbone thing?
This applies to all controllers.
I would try to avoid going over 10 feet, at the most 15 feet max.
Even then at 10 feet you would want a well designed and not cheaply made USB cable.
No this is not a endorsement for monster cables, they are a scam.
There is a difference between well made USB cables with a metal weave shielding and 28 awg wire verses the 32 awg wire cable with no shielding that you pay $15 for at best buy or $1 at the dollar store.
I picked up a bare pad from paradise arcade but simply cannot get the triggers to work. Iāve followed the postings in the thread. Tried soldering to the two tiny capacitors and tried soldering to the hall effect with a 100 ohm resistor in between. I also tried tapping into the 3.3v line, but havenāt removed the two small caps because I want to make sure there isnāt something obvious Iām missing. I noticed with this board the wireless card and the little chip below the RT hall have been removed, so I donāt know if that has anything to do with it, hereās two pictures
LT: http://i.imgur.com/DERI8Cn.jpg
RT: http://i.imgur.com/ak4AFNb.jpg
Any ideas?
EDIT: Wow, nevermind. It was working the whole time, the game I just used to test it needed to be restarted
i recently got my 360 atrox modded with imp V2. it seems that my stick mid match online just goes unresponsive or at times just moves forward. i still need to cut the trace to the antenna on the pad pcb. also is there a way to save the detachable usb?
Save as far as what?
I needed to use another usb cable. i couldnāt get the detachable usb to work.
It is possible to use the detachable cable with such a mod. Youād need to cut the traces for the D+ and D- lines that go between the main components on the PCBās connector. This will allow you to access the D+ and D- points on the main part of the board (which are closer to the center of the PCB) separately from the D+ and D- for the USB (which would be the points at the bottom of the PCB, on the underside of the connector).

The traces that need to be cut are the two light green lines inside the white circle, as shown in my picture here:

(Sorry if this information is coming to you too late. At least people will know that it is possible, I suppose.)
Hmmm⦠I dunno⦠This mod looks pretty easy to someone like me thatās just going to do an xbone only stick with triggersā¦
Modder cut my wireless trace but it still seems to function as a wireless controller. Its really hard to get a pad to sync with the system too while the stick is plugged in. Once we get pass this hurdle, at random times we both lose functionality of our controllers for about 5 seconds during matches.