Xbox One PadHack Thread - Calling the goons "Toodles, Gummowned, Phreak and You" Do it for the Kids

I told you to look up what a trace is and if you would have done so you’d be able to tell, but the entire red line is the trace. I also told you how to do it already.
See below-

I’m trying to help here bro. Help me help you! :slight_smile:

EDIT - I got a WTF on this post via @Papito ? See what happens when you try to help people out? LOL!

I have a bit of an odd question/request here.

So as per @Phreakazoid‌’s post back here, I cut the trace for the clock to render the wireless circuit unusable, and I ended up cutting the track on the other side of the board, right after the via. That part’s all fine and dandy; the padhack works just fine in wired mode, and is unable to sync in wireless mode.

Now here’s the thing: I had originally planned to install a simple SPST switch in there to be able to reconnect said trace to re-enable the clock, so that I can use the thing in wireless mode again, should I choose to. Problem is, the area that I cut (right after the via on the top-side of the board) got pretty damaged by my cut (I blame my dull blade), and I’m not sure where/how to follow the trace anymore.

That being said, would anyone (probably someone with an intact board) be able to point out which trace, or (better yet) solder point, I can solder to? Basically, I’m wondering where the point with the arrow in Phreak’s original picture (the “cut here” picture), where does that actually go, so that I can solder there?

I’m having an issue with the analog sticks on this one particular XB1 PCB in a 360 TE/Kitty setup. The cubes have been removed and neutralized with 10k resistors and I currently only have VCC, GND, D+, D-, and the dpad directions wired up. When I first plug the stick in, everything is neutral. As soon as I hit any direction on the stick/dpad (or any button when I had them wired up), the analogs would get stuck. Dpad directions still register fine.

http://i.imgur.com/aStnWoS.png

For the record, this was a bare PCB bought from Focus Attack - I’ve never encountered this issue with retail XB1 controllers that I’ve personally gutted.

Interesting. The analogs in the bare PCB I got from FA never worked.

A consequence of this frozen analog state is that LT/RT (Z axis) won’t engage.

I have a problem with my A and B button. When I like to test my buttons out, I test them in training mode. For some reason the A and B button wont respond when in game. But when Im at the training ‘menu’ I can use A or B to exit the menu to get back in Play session. Once i can control my character, or in play session, the buttons wont work.

Tl;dr I can exit the menu by pressing A for the option (resume) or B to exit (back) to get to the point where I can control my character. The buttons stop working once I get to that point.
If anyone could help, that would be great.

Has anyone tried on a PS3/4 TE2 stick? want to have my stick function with XB1 and want to achieve this with the switch function this time, my previous padhack was this in a qanba q4 but has the 2 cables, sorry for no posting any pics but my stick arrives tomorrow and want some information to have the expectations of what is possible if not to continue using the qanba on all except PS4

Thanks a lot for this thread, I’ll be using my Xbone controller next for my analog stick project in the other thread. Will be ready just in time for MKX in April

Wait, wait, wait …



Analog for a actual fighting game?

Since when Mortal Kombat required Analog?

I know people go on about Super Smash Bros needing Analog (which I disagree) but MK?

Why? You’d think being able to play games from the couch without needing a long wire to your console would be a Good Thing™.

Has anyone gotten Xbox One to sync wirelessly with a PC? Wireless connectivity to PC is one reason I’m probably going to use PS4 mod as well, even though I don’t own a PS4 (yet).

What? That only explains the PCB not the Analog, most folks just wire a regular Joystick to the d-pad.

@GrammatonKlerik Thanks for the trigger fix. Saved me from throwing away the PCB I thought was unsalvageable.

I hope this isn’t too much of a bump, but hopefully this pad ends up being common ground, which I think most PDP pads are. It would definitely make for easier padhacks.

I’m having a similar issue with my XB1 pcb also from Focus Attack. I’m not sure why my pcb is doing this but once I go into a game it acts like the Analog Stick is being pushed up causing my character to just keep jumping. Have you found a solution to the problem you were having?

put the cubes back and see if it does the same thing

did you mess with the triggers at all?
also, how long is your USB cable?

The cubes have not been removed. I wrecked the resistor/capacitor pair trying to solder for the Left Trigger. I believe I have already tested with a 3 foot cord to rule out length as a cause. My suspicion is that it’s due to me wrecking the resistor/capacitor pair, but I’m not sure what locations around the cube to probe to figure this out.

Did you find a solution your problem of the up direction being held?

there is a fix in this thread by @GrammatonKlerik for the trigger, use that and try again

Hey guys, I finally started to mod one of my sticks to be able to use it on the xbone. My setup is a PS360+ impV2 +XBOne horipad. The problem is when I hook up the horipad wiring to the ps360+ via the 20pin connector, the board fails to recognize when the imp is selected ps3 by default, but if I disconnect the ribbon cable, it works fine. Strangely enough, if I switch the imp to the xbone (with everything connected together), the xbone sees the controller and it works fine.
Its connected like this:
USB cable ->impv2 ->PS360+ default ->Horipad (Home select switched)

I’m kinda stumped on what else to troubleshoot

Pics inside

Spoiler

http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy322/Rudeshadow/Joystick/20150224_113145_zps2ws73cy2.jpg

http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy322/Rudeshadow/Joystick/20150224_113045_zpsrfxdm6z2.jpg

http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy322/Rudeshadow/Joystick/20150224_113029_zpsnzmzvnnx.jpg

http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy322/Rudeshadow/Joystick/20150224_112926_zpstiahkiws.jpg

http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy322/Rudeshadow/Joystick/20150224_112833_zpsfrnuy2dq.jpg

Also, ignore the messed up menu button on the horipad. I royally f-ed that up in frustration while troubleshooting. It worked fine before I ripped it out and ruined it. Now I have to find the alternative spot on the backside to make that connection.

How long is your usb cord? The PS360+ is notorious for having issues with cords longer than 10 feet when doing a dual mod with another pcb. If you have a shorter cord to test you can determine if this is your issue.