Clayton it was the right stick as mentioned. I owe you a smooch
@chaosphere adjust your analog and then glue down. I had to melt my glue and recenter, then glue again
Much thanks
Few issues.
So for some strange reason, when i connect the controller via USB, nothing happens till i āturn onā on the controller by āpressingā the guide button using my ground wire and the contact, after that it works fine.
Second, when i press the A button in killer instinct, light kick doesnt come out, but it works perfectly fine on the xbox menus and even when its paused, anyone have that happen? Same thing happens for RT, and LT. Every other button works fine.
I got RT to work fine, but LT shows as rapidly being pressed. I tried to solder under the resistor and capacitor and im pretty sure i messed that up, so i figured i may actually have no choice but to solder to the hall sensor, any ideas?
And i made an idiot mistake and forgot to clean off the flux on 3 points but i only realized AFTER i hot glued over it, am i screwed?
Hot glue isnāt too hard to pull free
@vicko @chaosphere cant just adjustā¦ he removed the cubes (I am guessing without a proper solder sucker) and lifted the 3 top tracepads here Xbox One PadHack Thread - Calling the goons "Toodles, Gummowned, Phreak and You" Do it for the Kids so he has VERY little to work with there.
If you are removing stuff folksā¦ grab one of theseā¦ itās a life (and PCB) saverā¦
IMHO, getting a whole new iron just for desoldering is overkill. All you really need is Solder wick
I hate solder wick
$10 over a shitty piece of metal string is way better
Solder braid > *
Good solder braid, not the crap that radio shack has. Itās insane at how much of a difference it makes.
Iāve never had good luck with pumps, so I just got really adjusted to how braid works and overall itās just so much cleaner and has worlds more usage since most of my work these days is SMT.
Hey Guys,
Iām new to modding and I want this to be my first project. Iām trying to mod my Eightarc Fighstick to work with the Xboxone Pad. I made a diagram on how I would connect the wires, can someone guide me if Iām doing this correctly? I read up the thread but feel like Iām missing some info. I am still unclear on how to connect the triggers.
Assuming youāll be using two separate usb cables, what you have there is correct. I would however suggest connecting Home from xb1 to your stickās Mode button, that way when you connect your stick (not xb1) you wonāt turn on the xb1 pad by pressing home (since it would go to both if both are connected to home).
As for the triggers, you just wire them to the bottom of the capacitor like the diagram shows (the red line is where your wire would be and the dots are where your connections would be). You can connect to either or both the capacitor/resistor.
I still have not had a problem with using the same home button after antenna removal/trace cut. Also please spend the extra $10 on an impv2, it makes life so much easier. I guarantee having 2 cords will just lead to more problems, especially with an eightarc i.e. the cords will not fit in the compartment which leads to laziness which leads to USB cord repairs down the road. Itās not much more effort to wire it correctly and it just makes everything cleaner.
Donāt forget to remove the antenna, and cut the wireless trace. I just dual modded one of those and it was super easy. You have nothing to worry about.
NOTE: Gummo mentioned earlier that some of the eightarcs will not work unless you have the switch in the ps3 mode. Iām not sure if this applies to you but you should look into that.
in my case, the hot glue is on top of traces i needed to solder to after pulling contacts =\
So noone has had these happen??
When you first enter training mode does it show any buttons are held down before you press anything? turn on āinput displayā and restart training mode
I still use wick for some stuff but for through hole desoldering it has cut the time and effort down so much its silly. I have tried other pumps and this thing has saved me so much time and the board is nice and clean
.
Funny thing is, this thing is cheaper at rat shack than the suction spring loaded ones.
I use it to remove large blobs of solder they use for mounting buttons etc. and use braid (with some flux) for cleaning up/smaller solder points
the whole ānothing happening till I press home to turn on padā thing sounds like its connecting wireless and not wired even though your using a usb cable.
That happened to me and stopped with a different usb cable, worth a shot if you happen to have a better one to test with.
sorry, double post
Ok guys, I now know my problem is with the analog right constantly activating up and possibly right. I think I might have soldered to the wrong contacts so I made this picture so someone can confirm I did it wrong.
In the below pic, the arrows represent the contact pads that I accidentally lifted from the board, the circle represents what I soldered to instead, and the squares represent the grounds that I soldered to with 10k resistors in between. Am I correct on how I did this?
http://imageshack.com/a/img10/7217/37wr.jpg
Also, if anyone has any tips on what I do with my multimeter to test that i soldered all of this correctly once Iām done, that would be great. I can test for continuity without problems, but for anything else I get confused with multimeters.
Read thisā¦ you got it wrongā¦ you need to put it in between signal linesā¦ Xbox One PadHack Thread - Calling the goons "Toodles, Gummowned, Phreak and You" Do it for the Kids
these are the points you need to connect for the topā¦ its the same for the side. With 3 of those contacts pulled it will be extremely challenging
EDIT>> I just did some poking and first of the 3 pads is a ground so your first left box outlined would be ok.
Both of the contacts on either side of the signal are grounds arenāt they?