Xbox One PadHack Thread - Calling the goons "Toodles, Gummowned, Phreak and You" Do it for the Kids

[ed1371]

Ok guys, I now know my problem is with the analog right constantly activating up and possibly right. I think I might have soldered to the wrong contacts so I made this picture so someone can confirm I did it wrong.

In the below pic, the arrows represent the contact pads that I accidentally lifted from the board, the circle represents what I soldered to instead, and the squares represent the grounds that I soldered to with 10k resistors in between. Am I correct on how I did this?

Also, if anyone has any tips on what I do with my multimeter to test that i soldered all of this correctly once I’m done, that would be great. I can test for continuity without problems, but for anything else I get confused with multimeters.

EDIT>> I just did some poking and first of the 3 pads is a ground so your first left box outlined would be ok.

Both of the contacts on either side of the signal are grounds aren’t they?

of the top 3 pads, only the 1st from the left is

[ChaoticMonk]

Ok guys, I now know my problem is with the analog right constantly activating up and possibly right. I think I might have soldered to the wrong contacts so I made this picture so someone can confirm I did it wrong.

In the below pic, the arrows represent the contact pads that I accidentally lifted from the board, the circle represents what I soldered to instead, and the squares represent the grounds that I soldered to with 10k resistors in between. Am I correct on how I did this?

Also, if anyone has any tips on what I do with my multimeter to test that i soldered all of this correctly once I’m done, that would be great. I can test for continuity without problems, but for anything else I get confused with multimeters.

EDIT>> I just did some poking and first of the 3 pads is a ground so your first left box outlined would be ok.

Both of the contacts on either side of the signal are grounds aren’t they?

of the top 3 pads, only the 1st from the left is

Any idea what the squares that aren’t ground are? I ask cause I also messed up the 3 regular contacts and instead connected the two outer ones to ground (haven’t had issues since)

Ok guys, I now know my problem is with the analog right constantly activating up and possibly right. I think I might have soldered to the wrong contacts so I made this picture so someone can confirm I did it wrong.

Also, if anyone has any tips on what I do with my multimeter to test that i soldered all of this correctly once I’m done, that would be great. I can test for continuity without problems, but for anything else I get confused with multimeters.

ok, I really hope this image isn’t too confusing but bear with me lol

The reason for your activating up is cause you have the side one connected to the wrong spot. I’ve X’d out the spot in red and circled the correct spot in red (its on the resistor thingy).
Now, when I fixed my issue I connected both outer ones to ground and it did the trick for me. Assuming its not doing the trick for you and your getting left/right activating (or if you want to air on the side of caution and do this anyway), I’ve X’d out one in yellow and circled the new spot in yellow.
Everything else should be fine.

As far as continuity testing, if possible you want to test one end of your wire to an alternate point (if there is one) or the edge of the point you used, trying to avoid touching the other end of the wire (or would could get a false positive since touching both ends of the wire will always short).
Looking at the image and assuming the white lines are your wires, I’ve colour coded and numbered the two ends you want to test for continuity (for example, blue 1 with blue 2, purple 1 with purple 2, etc.).
You can also test your resistors using the multimeter (if it has the option).

[Don_illMatiX]

When you first enter training mode does it show any buttons are held down before you press anything? turn on “input display” and restart training mode

Yup, seems my LT is constantly sending signals. The attacks started working fine after i unassigned 3xKick.

I attempted to solder to the capacitor/resistor pair, and i got RT soldered fine, but i totally botched LT. Im pretty sure i melted the capacitor, what are my options at this point?

[Don_illMatiX]

So noone has had these happen??

So for some strange reason, when i connect the controller via USB, nothing happens till i “turn on” on the controller by “pressing” the guide button using my ground wire and the contact, after that it works fine.

Second, when i press the A button in killer instinct, light kick doesnt come out, but it works perfectly fine on the xbox menus and even when its paused, anyone have that happen? Same thing happens for RT, and LT. Every other button works fine.

the whole ‘nothing happening till I press home to turn on pad’ thing sounds like its connecting wireless and not wired even though your using a usb cable.
That happened to me and stopped with a different usb cable, worth a shot if you happen to have a better one to test with.

i went ahead and tried the USB cable that comes with the play and charge kit, the little light on the cable itself lights up when i connect it to a controller, but on my PCB, it doesnt light up and i still have to press the guide button to get it on.

[ChaoticMonk]

…i totally botched LT. Im pretty sure i melted the capacitor, what are my options at this point?

read Xbox One PadHack Thread - Calling the goons "Toodles, Gummowned, Phreak and You" Do it for the Kids
and read Xbox One PadHack Thread - Calling the goons "Toodles, Gummowned, Phreak and You" Do it for the Kids
follow those and you can fix the trigger[

[RushedDown]

ok so i have 2 sticks modded by gummo an hrap 3 v3 and an eight arc fusion synthesis
the hrap works beautifully but the eight arc will randomly say that the controller has disconnected and i need to flip the mod switch he put in or unplug and replug the usb cord in. then it could work for 2 min or a half hour before it does it again.

any one have any ideas?

[Darksakul]

Whats the mod done on the Eightarc Fusion Synthesis? As that stick supports PS3 and Xbox 360 right out of the box.
Just the Xbox One support?

Some of these Xbox One and PS4 dual-mods have 2 USB cables or some secondary switch or button to hold down first.

[Vicko]

Whats the mod done on the Eightarc Fusion Synthesis? As that stick supports PS3 and Xbox 360 right out of the box.
Just the Xbox One support?

Some of these Xbox One and PS4 dual-mods have 2 USB cables or some secondary switch or button to hold down first.

He’s got a switch between 360+ps3 and xbone
the 8arc has its own switch

@rusheddown sounds like you might have static issues. Not sure why it would only happen on the one side.

[Darksakul]

I know the Eightarc has its own switch but thats only for the PS3 & Xbox 360 mode.
How would you incorporate a 3rd PCB into that switch?

[RushedDown]

There is a toggle switch installed in the cord compartment to switch to xbone

[Darksakul]

And no matter what you do, the stick isn’t working or its just not working on a particular system?

[RushedDown]

It works sometimes for 2 min sometimes for 2 hours. I randomly will get please reconnect controller. My xbone modded hrap doesn’t do that so I know the system is fine

[Darksakul]

I think I go with Vicko’s diagnosis but If Gummo modded your stick, I would contact him.

[ChaoticMonk]

It works sometimes for 2 min sometimes for 2 hours. I randomly will get please reconnect controller. My xbone modded hrap doesn’t do that so I know the system is fine

Heres something you might want to test out, connect the stick to an alternate usb source (pc, laptop, iphone wallcharger, etc.) then press the home button and see if it connects to your xbone.
If it does then it might be that the wireless wasn’t disabled all the way and when your playing your actually using wireless but since wireless was partially disabled, it randomly drops connection.
Probably a long shot but a simple test while your waiting.

[ChaoticMonk]

Ok guys, I now know my problem is with the analog right constantly activating up and possibly right. I think I might have soldered to the wrong contacts so I made this picture so someone can confirm I did it wrong.

In the below pic, the arrows represent the contact pads that I accidentally lifted from the board, the circle represents what I soldered to instead, and the squares represent the grounds that I soldered to with 10k resistors in between. Am I correct on how I did this?

Also, if anyone has any tips on what I do with my multimeter to test that i soldered all of this correctly once I’m done, that would be great. I can test for continuity without problems, but for anything else I get confused with multimeters.

EDIT>> I just did some poking and first of the 3 pads is a ground so your first left box outlined would be ok.

Both of the contacts on either side of the signal are grounds aren’t they?

of the top 3 pads, only the 1st from the left is

Any idea what the squares that aren’t ground are? I ask cause I also messed up the 3 regular contacts and instead connected the two outer ones to ground (haven’t had issues since)

Anyone able to shed light on this?
The 3 contacts for the analog, we know one is ground and the other is the signal but whats the last one?

[RushedDown]

It works sometimes for 2 min sometimes for 2 hours. I randomly will get please reconnect controller. My xbone modded hrap doesn’t do that so I know the system is fine

Heres something you might want to test out, connect the stick to an alternate usb source (pc, laptop, iphone wallcharger, etc.) then press the home button and see if it connects to your xbone.
If it does then it might be that the wireless wasn’t disabled all the way and when your playing your actually using wireless but since wireless was partially disabled, it randomly drops connection.
Probably a long shot but a simple test while your waiting.

yeah i tried that sadly it didnt work.
gummo got back to me and said the qanba sticks seem to be having this issue. gonna see if he will take the xbone pcb out and put it in another stick for me.

[GrammatonKlerik]

Anyone able to shed light on this?
The 3 contacts for the analog, we know one is ground and the other is the signal but whats the last one?

It’s a derived voltage source of roughly 1.8v. I say derived because nowhere on the top board is an IC which produces a regulated 1.8v so there must be some series element (maybe a resistor) which is bringing it down to 1.8

Each of the two sides of the analog sticks is a voltage divider (read my previous posts to refresh your mem on what that is.) At the top you have a voltage source (Vcc), at the bottom you have Ground and in-between you have two resistors in series. The voltage of the node between the two resistors will vary in a very predictable way as the resistors vary in value. Since MS uses 5K potentiometers they know that when the voltage is in the neighborhood of 0.9v (Vcc/2) then both resistors are equal and that can only happen when it’s in a neutral position. The ‘dead-space’ we talk about when referring to analog sticks is due to the fact that the MCU will probably take 0.9±0.2v as neutral.

[ChaoticMonk]

Anyone able to shed light on this?
The 3 contacts for the analog, we know one is ground and the other is the signal but whats the last one?

It’s a derived voltage source of roughly 1.8v. I say derived because nowhere on the top board is an IC which produces a regulated 1.8v so there must be some series element (maybe a resistor) which is bringing it down to 1.8

Each of the two sides of the analog sticks is a voltage divider (read my previous posts to refresh your mem on what that is.) At the top you have a voltage source (Vcc), at the bottom you have Ground and in-between you have two resistors in series. The voltage of the node between the two resistors will vary in a very predictable way as the resistors vary in value. Since MS uses 5K potentiometers they know that when the voltage is in the neighborhood of 0.9v (Vcc/2) then both resistors are equal and that can only happen when it’s in a neutral position. The ‘dead-space’ we talk about when referring to analog sticks is due to the fact that the MCU will probably take 0.9±0.2v as neutral.

Very informative, thanks
Makes me wonder though, how come I’m not having analog issues self activating when I’ve connected the outer legs of the resistors to ground and the middle one to the middle contact point?

Also, makes me wonder if this is why I have issues getting my pad to connect wired versus wireless (no matter what i do it always connects wireless even though usb cable is connected…it just uses it for power)

EDIT:
One more question if a may, on the pad in question I only removed 1 of the analog cubes (before I knew what I was doing). Instead of using resistors, could I simply run wire from the unaltered analog to the removed analog? Thereby making the removed one think its neutral since the existing one is? (hope this makes sense)

[Phreakazoid]

I thought the dude from Acidmods said the 1.8v came from a regulator?

edit, found:

STICKS - The Sticks are the same 10k POT style as previous controllers, but are new and smaller than the 360 versions. They have a 1.8v AN+ that comes from a Regulator (U8) and it’s also the vRef for U1 on the MCU board.

Regardless - CM you might be able to take the center point from the unaltered analog and put it to the center point of the previously screwed up one. All you’re doing is creating that middle voltage like Grammaton mentioned. I’m trying to think if that could cause issues but I really don’t think it will since you’re only connecting to a pin that goes right to the micro.

Alternatively, you could make your own voltage divider with a couple of resistors, and connect the VREF to the 1.8v of the unaltered cube, ground to ground, and the center tap to the center point on the removed cube.

[Darksakul]

One more question if a may, on the pad in question I only removed 1 of the analog cubes (before I knew what I was doing). Instead of using resistors, could I simply run wire from the unaltered analog to the removed analog? Thereby making the removed one think its neutral since the existing one is? (hope this makes sense)

Interesting theory, but your running twice the voltage though a single Analog Cube, pretty much a single resistor for both sides, not a good idea.