If going to the circle at the top of the pic or the one at the bottom you’ll need to scrape away the black carbon from the little hole which will reveal a tiny shiny disc that you can solder to.
If you go for the middle one you’ll be soldering to one side of the capacitor. Make sure you don’t bridge to the other capacitor or get it too hot cause if it gets hot enough it may come off.
As for the the outer two pads that you lifted off, those are ground so you can go to any other ground (for example, the two bigger pads next to them.
I would suggest using wire and then connecting the wire to resistor as opposed to soldering the resistor leg directly to the pads. Since the legs are stiff theres a higher chance of them lifting the pads, specially if you solder them by going through the hole.
I had thought so too but its actually easier then working on one of the via’s (your other option).
My advice would be to peel off the black cushion just below them (specially the one under RT or your iron will melt it if you get too close),
get your wire and tin it so it has a small bubble of solder,
apply a tiny bit of flux to the capacitor(s),
place the tinned wire against the side of the capacitor(s), solder bubble side against the capacitor(s),
touch your iron to the otherside of the wire and hold 2secs then remove iron and your good.
The iron will melt the bubble of solder and the flux will pull the heat towards the capacitor taking the solder with it.
Just remember, your trying to solder to the silver side of the capacitor, not on top of it.
Here is my second padhack, dual modded with a PS360+. I haven’t decided if I’m going to do DPDT or two usb cables, but for now if I power the PS360+ it works fine wirelessely. If I do another hack I really need a higher gauge wire. Also my glue skills could use some work.
Huge shout out to GrammatonKlerik for the alternate trigger wiring, I was able to salvage a bad pad. You can see the 1k resistor in the big glob of glue on the back.
Hey monk thanks for the response. I’m not sure what it means to me when you say “you’ll be soldering to one side of the capacitor.” Please excuse my noob levels. Which ones should I be soldering the resistors to? I understand you said that I can wire to the two outer pads for ground but what replaces the middle pad?
In the pic I posted, the circle I drew in the middle shows where you’ll want to solder on the capacitor.
The capacitor (or resistor, they look the same to me) will have a silver cap on either end and a black part in the middle. You want to solder to the silver cap on one end (end shown by the circle I drew)
Hi guys
I mod my xboxone to work on stick with 6 buttons it was fin, but when I try to hookup the triggers buttons the RT didn’t work so I try & remove the soldering, now the RT is holding down all the time can any one help me with it.
i have 2 pads that show Y and B as held down, and this is my 4th stick mod. I’ve used a meter and they’re not grounded, and there’s no visible bridges or anything on the MCU. I’ve also desoldered the wires and they still show as held down. Anyone experienced this before?
I did with the Back/View button and it ended up being the USB cable. These pads/the console seems to be finicky when its comes to cable being used
Have you already cut wireless trace? if not might be worth trying it wirelessly (plug usb into something else) and see if it still happens cause if its the usb cable then I suspect you wouldn’t see the issue wirelessly.
If it’s the USB cable i’ll be pissed. I already ruined the other pad after writing it off as faulty, and I have 46 more usb cables that are potential issues such as this. I’ll report my findings later.
Excuse my noob levels again, but let me try to get this straight. I’m going to have 2 resistors that I need to solder to the pads along that top row, pretending that I didn’t lift the contacts. One resistor goes from the left pad to the middle pad, and the other resistor goes from the right pad to the middle pad. Since I accidentally lifted the contacts from the whole row of pads, I’m going to want to solder one resistor from one of the big pads on the left (ground) to the tiny little tracing directly under the middle contact that I lifted, right?
Why would I want to solder to the little capacitor as opposed to the tracing directly below the middle pad that I lifted? Also, why would I solder to the bottom hole you pointed out? Sorry for being confused. You gave me options that I didn’t know I had haha. I’m a noob at electronics. I’m learning, but as of now I’ve been able to figure out “solder the resistor from point A to point B” and that’s about it. Since I’ve destroyed my point A and my point B (lifting the contacts) i’m just looking for what alternate point A and alternate point B is… if that makes any sense. So far it appears point A would be the grounds aka the bigger pads to the left/right of the pads I lifted. And point B would be the tracing I need to scrape off directly below the middle pad I lifted. Please tell me I’m correct. lol
I’ve been reading through every post on this page and have had great insight into padhacking. I have a SF4 TE round 2 stick that I’m modding and still unsure how to start this lol. Before I ask, I understand how time consuming it is to compile information. Is there a link to some pictures of what wires to solder? Next question is do I need a custom pcb such as the cthulu, or do I just piggy back the wiring to the pcb already in my te stick? Much appreciated.
Page 8 has the original soldering points, but we don’t use the same spots for the triggers anymore. I recommend you use the button terminal on the TE. This makes it super easy to wire up the buttons. I posted some pics of my TE work a few pages back (17 & 18) which you can use as a reference, just don’t do the same thing with the resistors as i did. That was my first xbone mod and i now know better lol
I’ve done a handful using those monoprice cables and didn’t have that type of issue as far as I can tell. Pretty sure gummo’s done a bunch w/ them as well.
edit:
worth a shot to bypass the dual mod and try a completely different cable directly to the plug on the xb1 pad. Come to think of it i do have a customer who’s reporting the right direction as being always held, happens on all systems, but started after what seemed to be a static shock to the stick.
I might have him try that out.
double edit:
@vicko and @chaoticmonk did you measure the voltages on the signals having the issue, or just continuity? If just the latter, try the former please and post up what you find. This could be fixed fairly easily if the voltage is simply dipping on those signals enough to cause them to be “pressed”
Correct. The other two points were alternatives for point B
Only reason I suggested soldering to the capacitor is its easier cause you have a bit more surface to solder to.
Either way, I’d still recommend not soldering the resistor leg directly to any of those points cause you’ll have a high chance of lifting them off if the resistor moves around. I suggest soldering wire to your chosen point B then soldering the other end of the wire to the resistor legs that would go to B.
Ya, I just did continuity when I was having the issue and the pad wasn’t plugged in. Will try checking the voltage when I get a chance (might be easier for you Vicko since I assume you have easy access to your pads :))
Just slide an exacto under one side of the plastic and lift up. Unless you have the strength of superman and rip it off like a band-aid, it shouldn’t hurt anything.
